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Author Topic: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators  (Read 53517 times)

Offline archibald tuttle

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OK, so the thermistor that rick's diagram says terminates defrost is not the same control as the bimetal?  I may have missed it in the diagram but I don't see other leads coming back from this bimetal sensor to the board.  or is it just in series with the Def terminal on the AC side rather than the DC control circuit.

and thanks for tip to look at location of resistors to identify different board.

there was definitely something cooked on the original board when I changed it and I left it sitting on my bench for 2 years in the box from the replacement board but can i find it today . . . nooooooo.

I didn't do the second replacement.

I think this thread was just starting up back then when I did the first and wish I had found it then because I would have had a better chance of tracing the cause.

Yes I understand power spikes are a problem generally although not really a believer that current surge technology can quench lightening level problems without damage to sensitive electronics although I think instability and switching on the grid can be controlled for. 

But no other damage to electronics in this building and it returns me to my concern about having this stuff digitally controlled to begin with.

thanks, headed over there to have a look right now. Might have a little more info next time I post.


Offline Spannerwrench

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The evaporator thermistor controls when the unit comes out of defrost, unlock most refrigerators it is not controlled by the TOD, the TOD is used only as liner protection.  If the thermistor fails that's a safety device.

Offline ZZZ

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The TOD is a line voltage device used as an over-temperature limit.  It is wired in series with the defrost heater.  The door openings, evaporator thermisters, compressor run-time, are all inputs to the adaptive defrost system which initiates and terminates the defrost cycle. The TOD is a safety to keep from having the heater run wild if something fails in the control circuit, nothing more.
I retired as Electrical Foreman at a University with over thirty million dollars of equipment in the Public Television and Public Radio studios and another twenty million dollars worth of stand alone electronic equipment.  I can assure you that surge suppression works very well.  Obviously, the better it is the more expensive it is. But even the cheap ones are a thousand times better than nothing at all.
Sq-D and GE and other panel manufacturers make residential surge suppressors for their breaker panels.  They cost under $200 installed, and come with a $50,000 warranty.  As an electrical contractor in an area with a lot of lightning, I sell a  lot of them.  We tell the customers to contact us if they have any failures during a thunder storm or power outage and we will file the claim.  In 9 years we have yet to have a complaint.  They work.
 

Offline ZZZ

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Sorry, I got side tracked on my last post.  I forgot to ask:  On the two previoius board replacements was it due to a problem with the evap not defrosting, did you replace the board only (no other parts), and did it fix the problem?

Offline archibald tuttle

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yes, first time it was defrost problem.  remember that there was some obvious damage to the board and I saved the board but as I said, no can find.

I'm wondering where to look for the onboard wiring diagram on these GE SxS units. I haven't been able to find one, which would have answered my question about the bimetal.

so this is definitely a defrost episode we're having here and not evap fan problem .  just saw the fridge.  aside from the obvious ice build up in the back of the freeze, getting 13.5 volts J2 pins 3-8 and 12.5 volts J2 pins 3 -4.

I moved the remaining food to another fridge and I'm letting it defrost tonite so I can get at the evaporater, but I'm a little confused as to which two legs I should be ohming at the board to test the defrost circuit itself because the connector that supplies the defrosters and compressor alternatively has a line input and the neutral appears to go to the next connector over. so I don't see any neutral wire to the defrost cycle to ohm against the line out from the 3 pin connector.

board looks fine.  no obvious damage or discoloration. maybe it's not the board this time.

but I'm getting infinite ohms across J1 4 to5  which is the evaporater thermister, as well ass across 5 to all the other thermisters which is what is shown in Rick's diagram.  I'm wondering if my J1 could be wired differently. and that gets me back to looking for a wiring schematic with color codes.  I definitely have the WRX5510942 board that's being dealt with here but can't find a serial number on the fridge.  I think it may have been one of those 'refurbs' so unless there is an onboard schematic I'm going to have to find likely model numbers and search for a diagram until I find the one that works.

thanks for playing along, more bulletins as events warrant.

brian

Offline ZZZ

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The resistance will vary inversely with the temperature.  At 68 deg F. you will have 6200 ohms; at 32 deg F you will have 16,300 ohms. Of course the plug must be disconnected from the board.   Not all meters will read this correctly.  Buy some similar resistors at Radio Shack and check your meter.  The serial should on the foil nameplate in the upper right side of the refrigerator section. Save this pdf before it's gone:  http://www.applianceaid.com/pictools/gefridge1.pdf

Offline archibald tuttle

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OK been in the cabinet today and this has an aftermarket L45-15 bimetal that sits at the very top of the evaporator.  seems a little on the cold side. but even the originals are usually labeled so don't figure the guy who was in here last year would have gone too far awol but does anyone know the normal design temps.

anyway, this one ain't easy to trigger so it ain't easy to reclose the switch by dipping in ice water at a 15 setting.  I put it all back together and run for a couple hours and it still hasn't closed assuming I'm ohming the right wires.  i'm pulling the plugs on the 120 end of the board and testing the orange wire that Rick has labeled neutral on the exteme left hand end of the bigger connector to the blue wire at the center of the 3 pin comp/defrost plug.  these wire color codes check out inside the box.

if it isn't reset by tomorrow I'll cut it out and join the wires to make sure I'm testing the right ones and then get another.  and i'll get on to seeing if the adaptive defrost seems to be working.

I don't find any way to trigger the card via the controls (no digital controls or address to the card on this one, only a typical temperature dial).

I suppose from reading the description I could open and close the door a bunch of times but I'm not clear that even a lot of that would trigger the defrost without time.

This was some kind of leftover or warranty return fridge because the serial/model number sticker was removed.  I can see the glue mark where it was upper right side of the fridge box.

I don't find anything on the back that indicates a model number and haven't located a wiring diagram.  don't know where you look on these.  I tried looking for an envelope behind the front and back bottom covers, or one glued onto the back cover but no dice.

I did pull the J1 connector when I was getting infinite ohms across the evap thermister but I maybe should have jumped a range or two on the meter.

It was room temp in the box at that time and I think I was on the 2K range and that should have read around 6400 or less according to the stock figures, but maybe it still shows infinite if the ohms are higher than the range.  may be my bad on that one.  I'll recheck next visit.

They already got another fridge going and I'm just taking this slow and a step at a time.  it's right near other jobs and I want to go step by step and help them decide whether to keep fixing this or switch.  There is counterdepth frigidaire SxS I can bring in but wonder if that is a good choice or frying pan into fire.

or if not frigidaire whose are most bombproof, easy to diagnose, more modularly replaceable control strategy or . . .

brian






Offline clman

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Re: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators
« Reply #27 on: December 29, 2013, 01:53:35 AM »
Seen the exact same issue with LG french door models. They issued service bulletins on it and upgraded fan motors.

Offline olyteddy

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Re: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators
« Reply #28 on: September 13, 2014, 09:07:26 PM »
You just might be able to get the parts for free...I do:

Offline Patricio

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Re: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators
« Reply #29 on: September 14, 2014, 11:15:13 AM »
That letter is dated November 07, 2006.  You are saying they still are warranting the board almost 8 years later?   Also I have not seen this issue in quite a while.
Great Old Fashion Hometown Service

Offline olyteddy

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Re: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators
« Reply #30 on: September 14, 2014, 10:22:26 PM »
I probably have a hundred fridges that are still on that list. My GE rep sends me boards just on an e-mail.

Offline jamenlang

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My city has a city-wide trash pickup day where people haul things to the curb and the city comes and picks it up to haul off to the dump. I discovered an abandoned partially parted out a GE refrigerator. Someone took the doors, but I got the auger, auger motor, ice maker/feeler assembly and ice container, door switches, temperature control knobs, solenoids and motherboard.

I'm glad to have found schematics for wiring the motherboard to the motors for use in other projects, but I don't see much for inputs aside from J4. how can I activate the relays for k1 k2 and k3 without the (now missing) door panel?

Offline jwright64119

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I have this control board and I have found my problem. The connector j8(compressor) burned up just after the connection on the board. Where does the j8 connect on the board?

Offline marlonthomas

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Great idea, excellent post!   :)
Looking for Home Appliance Repair Services? Visit here to learn more.

Offline ameritech

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Re: Replacing both evaporator fan motor and motherboard on GE SXS Refrigerators
« Reply #34 on: February 18, 2017, 10:28:38 AM »
Thanks for the heads up!

Offline bnklally

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Rick, can you please give me advice on my fridge?

I have a PFE28RSHCSS.  It is a bottom freezer, french door GE profile fridge and it is only a year and a half old.
The bottom freezer works fine, but the fridge is warm.  There was also water and ice in the deli drawer.  I replaced the thermister and the defrost thermometer and it still didn't fix it.

I then noticed that both fans; the deli fresh food fan and the (i think its called) evaporator fan, in the main fridge compartment are not working.  I checked the circuit board and the resisters look fine.

Would you recommend that I change both fans and the circuit board?
side note- we did have some power outages here about a week prior.  I wonder if something got messed up with the power coming on and off.

Offline olyteddy

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Rick, can you please give me advice on my fridge?

I have a PFE28RSHCSS.  It is a bottom freezer, french door GE profile fridge and it is only a year and a half old.
The bottom freezer works fine, but the fridge is warm.  There was also water and ice in the deli drawer.  I replaced the thermister and the defrost thermometer and it still didn't fix it.

I then noticed that both fans; the deli fresh food fan and the (i think its called) evaporator fan, in the main fridge compartment are not working.  I checked the circuit board and the resisters look fine.

Would you recommend that I change both fans and the circuit board?
side note- we did have some power outages here about a week prior.  I wonder if something got messed up with the power coming on and off.
I'd get warranty service on it. Here's a thread that details your problem: http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=20346.0

Offline bnklally

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I ended up doing a software update and replacing the FF fan.  Works now!

Offline Joselito

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REPLACING EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR AND MOTHERBOARD ON GE SXS REFRIGERATORS

Does this apply also to condenser fan motor I have one that the fan do not work !!!!!!!!?????????



This is a rewrite of a thread I started in 2011 in an attempt to make it easier to understand how to determine whether the evaporator fan motor should also be replaced with the motherboard on GE refrigerators with failed motherboards.

Iíve had to replace both the variable speed DC evaporator fan motor along with main control boards or ďmotherboardsĒ on GE side by side refrigerators, mostly the GSS HSS and PSS 20-22-25-27 cubic ft. models with both metal and plastic liners. Iíve found around half of these board failures were partly due to a faulty/shorted DC evaporator fan motor.


Moisture gets inside the fan motor or thermistor thatís attached to the fan motor and causes shorts in the motor.


Replacing just the motherboard and not the fan motor will only result in another failed motherboard in a short amount of time.


To determine whether or not the fan motor should be replaced with the motherboard, first look at the two resistors below the J2 connector.
If they are burned or discolored you should replace the fan motor.


Remove the J2 connector and check the resistance in the harness between the J2-3 white wire and J2-8 red wire. There should be approximately 1.5K to 3.0K Ohms. If it reads open or shorted you should recheck it at the motor. If the readings are the same replace the fan motor.


On the mother board, check for 13 VDC between J2-3 and J2-8 and check for between 8-13 VDC between J2-3 and J2-4.
When no voltage is measured at the motherboard check for a short in the fan motor between the yellow and white wire and the red and white wire. A short in the fan motor will damage the motherboard.


If either of the following symptoms exists, freezer section thawing and refreezing, fan motor speed erratic or makes noise, or water stains and/or rust on the fan motor, then I would recommend you replace the fan motor.


While replacing the motherboard on GE refrigerators is common on all models, I have not seen this particular problem on top mount, bottom mount, french door, or inverter models.


Iíve marked the image and picture of a failed motherboard for easy reference.


rickgburton



GE Refrigerator Main Control Board Part # WR55X10942

Note: Due to manufacturer changes replacement board may appear different in configuration compared to the original.
Instructions are included with the replacement board.



GE Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor Part # WR60X10185