Maytag MAH4000AWW won't tumble/spin

[Maddmax]

I have a Maytag MAH4000AWW (serial #38294273WF), which I bought used about a year ago.

The washer has worked pretty reliably. For about 2 weeks last fall, I had problems getting the machine to complete the cycle. After either just letting the washer sit for a few hours or sometimes moving the knob to a new position, I could get it to complete the cycle. That problem went away and the washer worked fine until today.

Now, I cannot get the washer to tumble or spin. The door lock light comes on and the washer fills and drains correctly. But it shuts off just after a few seconds no matter what I try. Normally, I can hear a high-pitched whine when the drum starts to turn at the beginning of the cycle. The washer now shuts off before that sound appears.

I read numerous posts online about the R11 resistor (transistor?). I pulled the circuit board and R11 looks fine and there is no sign of any damage anywhere on the board.

I checked to see if the door lock mechanism might be the problem. It does not look like the wax motor on the lock mechanism is moving at all. I tried to "trick" the machine by simultaneously a) pushing in the sensor/switch that indicates the door is closed (which turns off the light), b) rotating the spring-loaded cam on the lock to the closed/locked position and c) pressing the start button. The wax motor never moved at all.

I see the wax motor actuates two micro switches. I tried the same procedure above with both of those micro switches actuated, but still no tumbling/spinning. Lastly, I manually moved the spring-loaded rod that the wax motor pushes so that both of the micro switches were activated and the machine still won't tumble or spin.

I'm no electronics whiz-kid, but I am pretty mechanically inclined. I have a multi-tester. But I can't tell where to start diagnosing this problem.

Is it possible that the wax motor on the lock has gone out? Or is this a problem with some other part that is preventing the wax motor from activating? Or did I make a mistake in diagnosing the door-lock wax motor issue?

I would appreciate any guidance anyone might have on how I can track down the source of the problem and try to fix it.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Max

[JWWebster]

what color is your wax motor?

[Maddmax]

The motor is red (or reddish).

[JWWebster]

Red is the latest model wax motor I beleive.

[tgoods]

 Remove the front panel.  Set the timer to time delay and press the start button. Verify that the Delay light is on. Check for 120VAC at the motor control, black and white wires.  No voltage is a bad main control or the wiring.  Unplug the washer.  Unplug the JP4 plug from the motor control.  Plug in the washer and press the start button.  The washer should go into a self-test and spin at 50 rpm.  If it doesn't spin, you have a bad motor control. 
The motor and controller are replaced as a set, 12002039

[Maddmax]

JWW and tgoods, thanks for your help.

I followed tgoods' instructions. I am not sure I was testing the right wires, but I could not get 120 volts at the black and white wires on the motor control with the delay light on. The wires I was testing were on the lower half of the board, about 4 inches apart with large plastic insulator/connectors at the board. I am pretty sure I was making contact with the terminals and tried it several times, different angles, etc. but could not get any voltage reading on those wires.

There is also a two-wire connector on the right side of the control board, near the top, which has black and white wires. Should I have been testing those wires instead?

The drum did turn slowly with the JP4 unplugged from the motor control board. This sounds like somewhat good news but I have no idea where to go from here.

I would appreciate any guidance you all can provide. I'm really grateful for the help.

Max

[ApplianceGuru]

These Neptune washers shut off whenever they sense a problem.  Unfortunately, they don't provide any error codes.   

I had one that shut off after a few minutes.  Turned out the drain hose was laid down on the floor, and shoved into a floor drain.  It was siphoning the water out as fast it filled.

[JWWebster]

Dude I am old school. I am learning just like you on these shocktronic beasts.

[Maddmax]

I am running out of time and patience with this repair. I found a new motor and control locally for $200 and I'm tempted to buy it and see if that solves my problem. But I have nagging doubts.

My "door locked" light does come on when I try to run the washer. The drum does tumble (slowly and with an odd noise) on the 50 RPM diagnostic spin.

When I try to run the washer, it sounds like the motor is TRYING to spin/tumble, but can't quite get going.

I can't SEE anything wrong with anything on the control board behind the timer knob. I also can't get 120 VAC on the black and white wires on the motor control board, but I am concerned that might be user error on my part.

I don't have money to waste on unnecessary repair parts, but I am willing to spend a few hundred bucks if that will help me get this washer up and running again.

Does my situation make sense to anyone out there? Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks,

Max

[AJ]

As with any part, if you purchase it through our site from one of our affiliates you have up to 365 days to return the part for any reason.

So if you have doubts about the part fixing your washer this gives you the chance to try it with the piece of mind that you can return it if it don't do the trick.

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=4745.0

[bigbuck]

200.00, thats a good price, i would by it , install new motor, & motor control, that will take care of your problem...






good point aj, that will work!!!

[Maddmax]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

bigbuck, my concern on buying the new motor and control is this: It doesn't make sense to me that an electric motor would lose power. My understanding is that they either work or they don't. My motor does seem to work, albeit poorly.

Does it make sense to replace the motor? Maybe I'm missing something.

[bigbuck]

Yeah the problem is in the board but it comes in a kit, always change both due to different motor & board. Plus you get new wire harness from board to motor.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2

[Maddmax]

I was kind of afraid of this. I bought the part referenced by tgoods, which includes a motor and some kind of control module, but not the control board. It is paid for and I'm on my way to get it now.

Do I need a new control board also, or instead of what I bought?

[AJ]

Do I need a new control board also, or instead of what I bought?

Just what you bought should be fine.

The board bigbuck was talking about is the one you get with the new motor.


Let us know how the repair goes or if you have any more questions. 

[AJ]

Just so we are clear...

If the part you bought and has both the motor and motor control board in it as shown below that is all you should need, part # 12002039

[Maddmax]

Okay. Thanks to all of you for your patience and advice. I will let you know how it turns out.

[tgoods]

Normally, if it spins for the diagnostic test, the motor and controller should be okay.  But, you said it makes a noise.  This is a three phase motor but will run noisily on two phases.  There should be a tech sheet in the console tucked behind the pressure switch.  It will tell you how to do a motor phase test.  But I think you ordered what you need, the motor and controller.

[AJ]

Okay. Thanks to all of you for your patience and advice. I will let you know how it turns out.

Any updates for us?

Hope your busy doing laundry today.

[Maddmax]

Good guess, AJ. I have been busy doing laundry today. 

The repair was a success. I installed the motor and controller and that solved my problem. The washer works like a champ, and a lot quieter than before.

Once again, I really appreciate the help and advice that you all provided. I could not have gotten this problem diagnosed and resolved on my own. You all saved me quite a bit of money in repair bills.

Thank you!

Max