Author Topic: G.E. GTH22SBRARBS Top Mount Refer (Read 10011 times)

generaltech1 · « **on:** March 22, 2012, 07:23:12 PM »

Ok I get a call that this refer isn't cooling, but when I get there, of course its cooling. Temps looked good, amp draw off the compressor good. They tell me that it will work fine for a while, then melt the ice, then refreezes it into a block in the bucket. Dont have a service manual or schematic, but I suspect the motherboard, just as an educated guess. Any help would be great, thanks!

Model GTH22SBRARBS

JWWebster · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2012, 09:58:52 PM »

This ice box has auto defrost. It uses sensors to determine defrost instead of a timer. When defrost has been determined by the board from various inputs, the icebox goes into a pre defrost by doing a chill down to insure that when the defrost occurs the food won't melt. So with the food super chilled the thang then goes into defrost. If them sensors is whack the thang won't act right. keep in mind it still uses a termination thermostat and a conventional heater to do the defrost HOWEVER the defrost time varies this is known as DWELL mode any where from 20 to 40 minutes. After that a post dwell period begins where the compressor is fired up by the board but the inside fans remain off to speed up the cooling process. All of this is monitored by inputs on the mutha board. Those inputs is from sensors placed aboard the machine to monitor the ice box. Ryan has more here:

jesse24 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2012, 10:05:06 PM »

Something I have found with these GE boards is the compressor relay solder joint is cracked which can cause intermittent cooling. look close at the joint, you may only see a faint dark ring in the joint but that all it needs to not pass current.

niobrara · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2012, 10:10:51 PM »

Check the rubber gaskets on the sides of the evap, if rippled and yellow colored heater is sticking on. If not check thermistors, if in range replace control board.

AJ · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2012, 10:14:16 PM »

Here is the one for your model refrigerator.

Seems to be a popular part for GE refrigerators.

GE Main Control Board Assembly, part number: AP4436216

generaltech1 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2012, 11:11:07 PM »

So I was correct, I need the motherboard?

AJ · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2012, 08:12:59 AM »

Quote from: niobrara on March 22, 2012, 10:10:51 PM

Check the rubber gaskets on the sides of the evap, if rippled and yellow colored heater is sticking on. If not check thermistors, if in range replace control board.

generaltech1 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2012, 09:18:25 AM »

What should I read off the thermistors if theyre bad?

JWWebster · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2012, 09:24:19 AM »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lxOqMjFtr4

ApplianceGuru · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2012, 08:05:41 PM »

Bad solder joints on a board are often the result of a bad board component drawing too much current and/or generating too much heat. This heats and re-heats the joint, causing it to crack.

It is best to replace a board if you see cracked solder joints. I tried solder them for the first year or so. Then I started getting callbacks for the exact same thing. Lo and behold, the solder was cracked again!! Not to mention, many boards were burn beyond a solder repair.

generaltech1 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 27, 2012, 10:20:38 PM »

Ok heres what I got from testing the thermistors, Freezer:16.5k ohms, FF: 15.1k ohms, and Evap: 12.2k ohms. So going by the video in the the thread, I have 2 out of three thermistors bad since they all dont read 16.5k ohms +/- 5%, correct?

Brent@CanBC · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:40:37 AM »

Hey my friend, hows things going. So yes to changing out the two thermisters that are out of the +/- 5% and that should fix your problem. Much cheaper than guessing and finding the board is not the problem. $:-\$ Brent@CanBC

JWWebster · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2012, 08:31:00 AM »

The themistors also need to be correctly mounted.

generaltech1 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 29, 2012, 02:16:48 PM »

Compressor amp draw is 0.9 does that sound right?

niobrara · « **Reply #14 on:** March 29, 2012, 10:19:51 PM »

generaltech1 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 04, 2012, 08:11:23 PM »

JW what do you mean by the thermistors being mounted correctly? Looks pretty straightforward.

generaltech1 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 05, 2012, 09:44:18 AM »

Well although one of the 3 thermistors was out of range, changing them didnt fix the problem. I checked it this morning and all the ice was melted. I have a spare motherboard so Ill change that out as well, and we'll see how it goes from there.

haroldsappliance · « **Reply #17 on:** April 05, 2012, 10:16:24 AM »

Put a new board in and change the thermistor in bottom of freezer and move on. Good luck.

JWWebster · « **Reply #18 on:** April 05, 2012, 01:46:44 PM »

If a thermister, expecially that one mounted on the evap is loose and not up against the evap tubing then the proper resistance won't be met and the control board will not know the correct temp in the freezer when defrost times occurs. Defrost is anywhere from 21 to 40 mins on these wonders.
Read all about it:

Adaptive defrost functions

generaltech1 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 06, 2012, 09:57:59 AM »

Ok...Ive replaced all the thermistors, the evap thermistor is tight to the tubing, and replaced the motherboard. I check it this morning and with an empty freezer, air temp was just below 60*f. What am I missing here?

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Author Topic: G.E. GTH22SBRARBS Top Mount Refer (Read 10011 times)