Kenmore 90 series heating element stays on.

[AnnesLimo]

As previously posted in another thread I have a newly installed heating element that will not turn off when the motor stops or the door is opened. The element only turns off when the cycle ends and timer is in off position or when using air dry. I have checked all connections and complte wire harness for short and can not find anything that would indicate a ground out was the issue.

Could it be the timer assembly? I did have a mishap with an accidental short while working on the unit under power. Could an accidental short fry something in the timer?

In addition to the above I have an intermittent problem with the thermal breaker on the motor kicking. I believe the issue may be related to cabinet overheating due to the element not cycleing properly?

[Earl Dryer]

Ok only one other thing I can think of, the centrifical switch on the motor is stuck closed.

[bigbuck]

i second that answer, may have to replace motor, i would look it up but no model number listed.

[AnnesLimo]

Ok only one other thing I can think of, the centrifical switch on the motor is stuck closed.

So the motor could be the cause of the heating element staying on? Is there a way ro test the centrifical switch to know or do I just have to fork over the $100 bucks in trial and error?

[AnnesLimo]

i second that answer, may have to replace motor, i would look it up but no model number listed.

Model # 110.60902990. I did replace the motor a few years ago but I do believe it was not an OEM FSP...

[bigbuck]

terminal 1 & 2 both red on motor, pull off switch, if its closed you need new motor.

[AnnesLimo]

terminal 1 & 2 both red on motor, pull off switch, if its closed you need new motor.

So I ohm or continuity terminal 1 & 2. I am a novice when it comes to motor control switchs so this one is new to me. Usually a bad motor just doesn't run so you replace it! These things used to be so much simpler.

[Earl Dryer]

Pull the plug off the motor turn the timer to a heated setting make sure the door switch is made push the start button is the heater on? No, change the motor.

[AnnesLimo]

Pull the plug off the motor turn the timer to a heated setting make sure the door switch is made push the start button is the heater on? No, change the motor.

OK I'll take a get at that tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

[AnnesLimo]

Pull the plug off the motor turn the timer to a heated setting make sure the door switch is made push the start button is the heater on? No, change the motor.

OK I'll take a get at that tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

OK I am into it again and pulled the motor then took the "switch" apart. I notice right off the bat that the black plastic lever (I believe the centrifical switch lever) is worn on the outer curved part (the edge that rides along the motor). Upon closer inspection the contact points between terminal 1 & 2 apear burned and the plastic "tongue" which moves the contact points looks worn / heat warped.

I am assuming the normal operation position for these contacts is closed for heat and open for no heat? If the motor is off the motor clutch appears to be open (disengaged) so the lever (black plastic piece) pushes the contacts open. That being the case it would appear the lever has worn down / heat warped too much to actually do the intended job? Next question; Can I buy the parts or this mechanism instead of the whole motor?

[jumptrout51]

The motor switch is not available separately.

[AnnesLimo]

The motor switch is not available separately.

Of course not! It's probably a $20 part... Any ideas besides buying a whole new motor?

[tgoods]

Pry the contacts apart and file them smooth.  That might get you some extra life out of it. 

[AnnesLimo]

Pry the contacts apart and file them smooth.  That might get you some extra life out of it.

I am working on that now. The big issue is getting the contacts to seperate on open clutch as the "melted / heat warped" plastic lever is now about 1 mm short so when activated the plastic does not hit the lever to break the contacts. Really is too bad they do not sell that lever and the brass connector / point contact. Probably a total $1.00 cost if they did and then us DIYers could save a little more $$$ for beer!

I am actually suprised at just how close and how little tolerance the gap on these points are given the voltage rolling through. I guess the AMPS are relatively low so it's not as big a deal as say the gap on a spark plug or points in a car distributer (when cars had distributers).

[jumptrout51]

Try getting a switch from a used appliance shop.

[Major]

If the switch is deformed I would not fool with it ( fire hazard)
what is more important $100 or your family and home
go to a local repair shop or someone who scraps appiances and get a used motor if possible.
Have been repairing appliances for 25 years and only ever replaced 1 dryer motor so they are
usually in very good condition used, just check the switch to be sure it is good.
Fooling with a bad switch is not a good practice as dryers have lint in them and a fire is always possible.

[tgoods]

25 years and only ever replaced 1 dryer motor

Seriously?  I just checked and have bought 62 279827 dryer motors since 2003.  Averaging about 7 a year not counting other dryer motor part numbers.  Probably threw away at least 60 perfectly good motor switches, too.

[bigbuck]

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=936530n

[blondejon]

Try getting a switch from a used appliance shop.

Or try to get a used motor from eBay.

[AJ]

Try getting a switch from a used appliance shop.

Or try to get a used motor from eBay.

or help support our site and buy it from one of our appliance parts affiliates.


WHIRLPOOL 279827 Dryer Drive Motor, AP3094245