GE anything is prone to have control board failure. Of all boards I change the majority are GE. The board has a relay on it that provides voltage to the igniter. The igniter gets it's neutral from the safety valve. I recently had a job on a GE and I was so sure it was the control, yet it turned out to be the valve. Point being to test before you replace.
You need a digital meter to test anything electric, if you don't have one, get one. $20 get's you a basic one.
Now let's assume you have a meter now, because if you don't your only option is to change parts and hope it works.
With a meter check for continuity between the two top terminals of the safety valve. (set meter to the omega symbol and you will get o.oo, if you have continuity. )
If no continuity your valve is bad and you don't have a neutral, you would need to replace the valve.
If you have continuity next set the meter for AC voltage, turn oven on and read the readings from the yellow wire to the whte wire at the igniter harness. You should have 110-120v. If you do not, and you have continuity, then you need to replace your control board.
Yes, unfortunately controls can break at a year out.