We have ignition

[Steve D]

I have a maytag gas dryer mdl DG22CA. The flame ignites but immediately goes out. After a few minutes, the glow plug comes on, it reignites and again immediately goes out. Any ideas?

[appdoc]

Sounds like ur vent is completely blocked or those coil are breaking down pretty quick

[Steve D]

What "coil" would you be speaking of? This would be very fast. I mean the flame kicks on and within 2 or 3 seconds kicks off.

[jumptrout51]

Sounds more like a defective flame sensor to me.
The flame sensor is attached to the side of the heat canister.

[Steve D]

Ok, replaced the flame sensor. It appeared to work. Had good long lasting flame. Let it run through a cycle but now when I turn it on I get flame then glow plug heats and no flame.

The vent is removed so that is not an issue. The high heat sensor tests as good. I'm totally lost.

[JWWebster]

Must be a problem with the coils

[Steve D]

THe problems started when I replaced the Gas Valve. So, unless I had a faulty valve system, the solenoids should be good.

[whirlpooltech]

Why did you replace the gas valve?

Did replacing the gas valve solve some other problem or have you been fighting the same problem from the start?

[Steve D]

Ok, this will tell you just how I diagnose. 

I noticed that the glow plug was heating but no flame was occuring. I hit the side of the dryer and the flame ignited. I tried this several times and it worked every time. I concluded that my hitting the dryer was jarring loose a stuck solenoid. I happened to have a spare gas valve so I changeed it out.

[JWWebster]

You hitting the side of the dryer might be unsticking the control thermostat. Swap that out and see if she percolates.

[Steve D]

By Control Thermastat are you speaking of the high limit thermastat located on the tube the flame shoots into?

[JWWebster]

High limits do not control the heat; they job is to open the heater circuit if the temp gets too high; exceeds 250f. A smaller limit mounted on the heater cage is set to pop at 300f. The drum temp (160f for cotton) is controlled by a Klixon mounted on the blower housing set to open at 160 for high. To get this klixon to shut down faster for perma-press and knits they add a small heater to the bi-metal which warms the klixon up and makes it shut down faster. Hence 4 wires 2 fat wires that carry heat load and 2 smaller wires from the timer.
click pic to enlarge

[MajorApp]

  You changed the gas valve but did you install new solenoids?

[Steve D]

JW Webster - AS near as I can find, there is a thermostat on the heater tube and one on the blower housing. No others. The one on the blower housing has only two wires connected to it (as does the one on the heater tube). It is listed on repair clinic as the cycling thermostat. I will try changing that one.

As for replacing the solonoids, I did not as there were new ones on the valve assembly.

[JWWebster]

Does your gas valve have a 3 wire quick connect or 2? If it has a 3 wire set up try carefully disconnecting the orange wire from the timer to the gas assembly and see if the gas stays on.
 If it does then you have a bad timer. The 3 wire t-stat on the blower housing is your control/cycling thermostat. These are pretty healthy thermostats but you never know.

[Steve D]

First, let me thank everyone for all the advise. It has been tremendously helpful.

I discovered a problem that prevents me from identifying what fixed the dryer. I read somewhere that a possible reason for improper heating is a bad felt. I went to check my felt when I realized that it wouldn't matter since I had grown tired of removing and replaciing the face panel and had been checking each "solution" with the front panel off. That in it's self would prevent proper air flow. I replaced the front panel and, suprise, it is working. Now I don't know which solution was the solution. At least I learned something. 

[jumptrout51]

Never second guess success.

[AJ]