I am on city water. But the reason I find your question enlightening is to do with water pressure.
My washing machine is located on a covered patio. I plumbed my patio and garden faucets direct to city water pressure which is about 70 Ė 90 PSI. I bypassed the water pressure regulator so my outdoor water pressure would be max. The rest of my house is fed through a standard residential pressure regulator and I set that at 65 PSI.
SO for about 2.5 years the washing machine has been getting higher than average water pressure. I donít know what the spec is for a Maytag water inlet valve so I donít know if higher pressure could cause the valve to fail. I am guessing that the MAYTAG valve design upper threshold would be well above 100 PSI to take into consideration that not all homes have water pressure regulators. I would not be surprised if it was designed for at least 100 - 150 PSI.
Also I do not use the hot water side of the Maytag water inlet. I capped it. It only has cold water supply. However it is the hot water solenoid that appears to have melted. I believe this is what shorted out the lid switch fuse.
I apologize for my earlier post that may reveal my frustration with this issue. I am trying to avoid buying and replacing parts that may not be broken. For example, I wouldnít tear the engine out of my car because it wouldnít start until I check to see all the reasons it wonít start. It might just be a plugged $2.00 fuel filter.
And if it wasnít for this rotten economy, I would have just called a repair person. But money these days is tight and like many people, we have to knuckle down and try and do it ourselves.
I appreciate all your insights and thank you for your patience.
What kind of water is the machine connected to well or city?