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Author Topic: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer  (Read 21824 times)

Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #20 on: March 07, 2008, 08:47:14 AM »

You don't check the wires. you remove the wires and check the thingys that they attach to. these are sensors or fuses. You gotta remove at least one wire from each one so that you won't get a FALSE reading from a loop. I would touch the 2 leads together and move the selector of the meter around until you get an audible beep. This beeping makes it easy to see if you have a circuit. If any of these sensors are OPEN then they interupt the power to the heating element. This is a good thing. It keeps the lint filled dryer from catching fire.
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Offline Repair-man

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2008, 01:28:52 PM »
Let's go back to your previous post. You said you checked "the thing with white terminals going into the heater". Well, that WAS the heater. The 2 terminals come thru a small ceramic insulation block and stick out so you can put wires on it. If there was no beep, the heater is bad. I've never worked on a Princess, but our old expert JW is likely full of comments by now.

The other thermostat you mentioned with the 4 terminals is a bias thermostat, or sometimes called the operating thermostat. When the dryness sensor is satisfied, the controls sends 240 volts to the top 2 wires (violet) on this thermostat. The top terminals are a heater that opens the lower set of contacts when the dryer is hot enough. You should have gotten a reading thru the top 2 as well, but it will not be full continnuity. If your OHM scale is set to Rx200 or more, you'll see a reading.

You need a new heater...don't worry about voltage checks right now.
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2008, 01:33:27 PM »
You need an element $60
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Offline babs277

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2008, 02:24:22 PM »
Hello Hello Hello!!
Thanks for getting back to me.  I was just downstairs poking around in the dryer.  I have one of those long hand held mirrors, so I used it with a flashlight and wrote down the actual numbers and locations of every part I could find to test.
 
Upon reading JW's previous comment, I tried testing the Thermal Fuse (#3390719) at the base of the terminals as well as at the top on the plugs.  I got a beep at the top but NOT at the bottom.  I had tried to pull the wires off but couldn't.  Is there some trick to getting these plugs off?  Where should I be grabbing them ... I don't want to damage the wires.
So what do ya think. Is my Thermal Fuse #3390719 bad?

Also, when I tested the heater coil, I removed both wires and touched the plug terminals ... male end??  No beep.  I tried one then the other ... inside and out ... No Beep.  You said that that white thing is ceramic ... mine looks like plastic.  Am I looking at the right thing?

Please let me know if you think the Thermal Fuse is bad due to the fact that it did not beep at the base of the terminals.  And could that effect the other heater thing?  When I said earlier that I had tested everything, I had NOT removed wires ... only touched the terminals at the top.

Thanks guys!  I was really getting discouraged!
babs

Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2008, 08:21:40 PM »
anythang that does not beep is defective! replace it.
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Offline babs277

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2008, 06:33:51 PM »
Hi Guys!
I just wanted to let you know that I ordered the parts for my dryer yesterday.  They should be here Monday ... or maybe Tuesday. 
I ordered ...

Part# 3387747 Heater Element
Part# 3390719 Thermal Fuse
Kit# 279769  which includes ...
Part# 3977394 Thermal Cut-Off
Part# 3390291 Thermostat 250*F (121*C)

I got a pretty good deal ... so I decided to cover all my bases ... hopefully!
I was wondering about all the lint that was inside my dryer.  Is that "normal"?  I cannot imagine how so much could have built up in there.  True ... I never cleaned it before, but it still seemed like way too much.  The dryer is only about 6 years old ... I think!
So do ya'll think it's normal ... or could a seal/gasket be damaged in some way.  I was just wondering!
So, if you experts are willing, I may need some advice when I install all these parts.  It looks fairly straight forward, but you never know. 
Hey JW ... I read about a "trick" in one of your other posts ... that there is some kind of moisture sensor thing that should be cleaned on some dryers.  Is that something I should do?  If so, where is mine and what does it look like?
Many THANKS to all of you who have so generously given of your time and talents to help me out!
Sincerely,
babs

Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #26 on: March 08, 2008, 07:53:59 PM »
Yall need to clean the lint filter after every load
The moisture sensor picks up continuity between the 2 probes on the inner wall as the clothes rub up against them. As long as moisture is detected the timer will not advance.
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Offline babs277

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #27 on: March 08, 2008, 09:20:04 PM »
JW ... your comment from that old posting was this ...

"Down here we have determined a simple removal and cleaning of the contact on this tiny board will make it do its thang once again. Another trade secret. Shhh They will all be doing it!!!"

Should I remove and clean the contact on MY tiny board while I have the dryer apart?  Do I even have a tiny board?  Come on ... share the secret!!  LOL!

babs

Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #28 on: March 09, 2008, 09:13:06 AM »
I would not bother with it UNLESS the timer would NOT advance. The way to do it is simply yank it out of it's socket and clean the contacts good with alcohol. But if the dryer is working fine I wouldn't bother with that step. It has nothing to do with heat, It is about wetness.
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Offline Repair-man

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #29 on: March 09, 2008, 09:39:43 AM »
Babs, what you really need to think about is what caused this in the first place. Thermal fuses, heaters and motors generally don't fail at the drop of a hat. They usually need some encouragement. This comes in the form of a restricted or improperly installed vent. Up till now, no one has asked you about the vent sytem you have, but I would like to know the details if you please. Things that you might mention are:

1. Type of duct on back (foil slinky, plastic white, semi-rigid metal, etc.)
2. Where does the vent run to? (up, straight out, how long?)

I'm only asking because I don't like to see people having the same problem again and again if they can avoid it. I'm not made of money, and I don't think you are either. Before you answer with these details, you might have a look at some tips on proper venting that I have posted here.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2008, 09:50:11 AM by Repair-man »
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Offline babs277

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Old Broad has HEAT in her Dryer!!
« Reply #30 on: March 12, 2008, 01:02:31 AM »
Hi Everyone!!

I DID IT!!!  My parts came in on Monday ... and I had the dryer back together and running with HEAT by Monday night.  I've been catching up on laundry ever since.  Hurray!  I only installed the heating element and kept the other fuses for later if I need them.  Now that I know how to do this, I can replace the fuses if necessary.  The ones that were in the dryer weren't bad so I left them be.

I still have a couple questions though.  I hope you all won't mind.
When I originally tried to take my dryer apart, I mistakenly tried to remove the back.  I removed some screws ... about seven.  But, when I went to put them back in, the holes seemed to have disappeared from the underside for 5 of them.  I hope I'm explaining this so you can understand what I mean.  It's like when you try to line up the two holes and the part underneath has moved and there's just solid metal showing ... or nothing at all.  To be honest, I can't even remember for sure which holes three of the screws came out of ... but I can't get them to go in anywhere!  There's solid white metal behind where I thought they were supposed to go.
The other two left over screws came off the hinged part of the top control panel thing.  It had four screws ... and it now has only two.  I can see through those two holes, but the there's nothing at all behing the top part to screw into.  I can put the screws in and they just sit there loose ... not secured at all. 
So what do ya'll think happened?  Do ya think that the dryer back plate shifted or dropped somehow?  If so, how do I remedy it ... get all the screws back in?   It doesn't seem to be affecting the dryer's operation, but I'd like to fix it anyway.

Problem two ... when I originally removed the terminal plate/cover over the wires coming into the dryer in the back, a spring clip fell out and I didn't see where it came from ... nor can I figure it out from the parts illustrations I have.  They list the clip as Part#3394427 Clip Harness.  It's only listed ... and not shown on the drawing itself.  It's identical to the ones that were at the top of the front bottom panel I removed.  So, can one of you geniuses tell me where this wire harness clip belongs and how to put it back in?

Finally, I bought new 8 foot semi-rigid vent duct and a new piece to put through the wall outside.  But, I was having trouble stretching the vent ... I was afraid I'd break it.  So, for now I have the new good vent attached to the dryer ... and then duct taped at the other end to a section of the old cruddy stuff going outside.  I have to wait until next pay day to pick up an additional 8 foot piece of the good stuff. 
Repair-man ... I watched all your videos ... including the one about how improper venting can make your house sick.  I learned a few things I was actually going to ask ya'll about.  Like ... Can I somehow recycle all that good heat back into the house?  No! No! No!  Too bad though!
I also learned that dust mites POOP their own weight EVERY DAY!!   GROSS!
What I do need to know is ... How do I connect the two pieces of semi-rigid vent together?   I'm sure there's a better way than duct tape ... right?  And they won't fit inside of each other cuz they're too rigid, right?  I don't recall seeing any connector type pieces at Home Depot when I bought the other stuff.  But, I want to do this RIGHT!!
The over all vent distance is only about ten feet ... maybe less, but I'd prefer to not "stretch" this semi-rigid vent stuff any more than I have to.  It seems like it'll be stronger that way.

So, that's about it!  I can't thank all of you enough!  You're the greatest!  MANY MANY THANKS!!

Sincerely,
babs  ... the old broad who learned a few new tricks!


Offline BrntToast

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #31 on: March 12, 2008, 02:42:27 AM »
the missing screws from the back could be very important, they could be the ones that hold the heater housing in place or the mount for the rear rollers

you need to remove the front panel, then the drum, once the cabinet is all open you will be able to shift the 2 parts so the screw holes for both line up

also dont connect semi-rigid ducting, its sold in 10 foot or longer lenghts, the coupler will catch lint and create problems in the future

with semi-rigid always use an elbow to connect it to the dryer and also to the rigid that leads outside, its just so much easier

hth
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Winnipeg Manitoba Canada


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Offline JWWebster

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Re: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer
« Reply #32 on: March 12, 2008, 10:03:43 AM »
Unplug the dryer. Use an ice pick to line up one of the holes in the back. Once you get it centered the rest should fit nicely. I have no idea what the spring clip does. Aproduct called foil tape is heat resistant and lasts way longer than duct tape. Costs more though.
May the hinges of our friendship
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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair