Author Topic: LG washer has shut down, no power (Read 63265 times)

Golfnut · « **on:** June 19, 2009, 08:18:18 AM »

3 year old LG washer WM2277HW will not start, no LED message or anything. Machine was powered, but just "blinked" and shut off all together. Checked power supply, power is being supplied. Pulled plug and let set. Tried again. No power or any power to display (no lights come on). Removed top panel and checked power to control panel circuit (front of machine). Found some signals going thru cables to circuit board.I'm assuming it is a main panel circuit or the circuit/panel board in front. What would I need to test to see if the main panel/circuit board is faulty? I had assumed that the front circuit board was faulty because I was not even getting light/LED coming on.

Update:
1) have replaced both display and main circuit boards
2) still no LED on main board

JWWebster · « **Reply #1 on:** June 19, 2009, 10:10:18 PM »

This might be dumb but I have heard if water gets on the bottom floor of the washer it shuts down for fear of a leak and flooding the house. Look on the floor and remove the water if any.

Golfnut · « **Reply #2 on:** June 20, 2009, 02:16:24 PM »

floor is dry....

Currently checking the ball sensor and pressure switch. I have removed the ball sensor from assembly and checked resistance. I have yellow/blue 3.1K Ohm, yellow/red .956 K Ohm, and red/blue 2.35 K Ohms. This is consistant if ball is settled or not. I was expecting a change in resitance with the ball settling or not settling in its "level" position.

Pressure Switch- I'm getting 22 ohms across the blue/purple, 7 ohms across white/purple and blue/white. I'm not sure what I should be seeing.

Would either of these be capable of shutting down the main board (no LED)?

The door switch seems to be mechanically working fine. We have not had any motor/mechanical grinding of the motor.

Installed new noise filter, pwd main board, and new display boards. I assumed/hoped this would have covered the "no power" problem to this LG washer.

Any suggestions?

JWWebster · « **Reply #3 on:** June 20, 2009, 07:37:02 PM »

No display screams: "fuse" If I was lucky enough to find out the fuse was bad and got it a goin agin I would take the time to see what causes de problema. Cure dat and then ye will be solvant if not savant as a matter of fact I would bump you up a notche.

JWWebster · « **Reply #4 on:** June 20, 2009, 07:43:45 PM »

Got a pic at the ball sensor or can ye tell me mo?

JWWebster · « **Reply #5 on:** June 20, 2009, 07:45:22 PM »

Golfy I know just enough to get me into trouble!!!!

Golfnut · « **Reply #6 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:04:01 AM »

thx...

This (ball sensor) is the part that is black, rectangle box sitting with ball inside that senses level of the machine.

I've tested by moving box and ball sideways to get ball off center against the omh meter. I don't get any changes in resistance with changes in the ball movement.

Also have been trying to test/determine if pressure switch.

Golfnut · « **Reply #7 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:08:29 AM »

Another fact..

When I induce power by manually turning drum, the display and main board lights up (LED on) and display board controls are lighted. I'm told by LG not to do this.

:tickedoff:Otherwise, normal operation the machine is dead.

Repair-man · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:45:18 AM »

Why not read the handy-dandy service manual to see where you at?

WM2277 Manual (5 MB)

Golfnut · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:33:00 AM »

Yeah, i've got the Service Manual. I've replaced all the all the components in the "no power" trouble shooting scenario. p. 23

Looking for other possible scenarios that would lead to "no power" situation with this machine.

thx

Golfnut · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2009, 09:07:22 AM »

http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-sensor-assembly-6501fa2462c.htm

Ball sensor switch link to picture

Repair-man · « **Reply #11 on:** June 21, 2009, 09:40:01 AM »

OK, so if you have the manual, refer to the diagnostics on page 16 and tell us the results:
1. Press the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously.
2. Press the Power button, while the above condition. Then buzzer will sound twice.
3. Press the Start/Pause button repeatedly to cycle through the test modes.

Golfnut · « **Reply #12 on:** June 21, 2009, 10:41:56 AM »

There is no power. Control Panel on/off does not engage. Control panel lights are off. LED on main board is not on.

I can't get to QC Test Mode. Wish I could get to that point!

Ref.....................................................................
7. TROUBLESHOOTING
7-1. BEFORE PERFORMING SERVICE
Be careful of electric shock when disconnecting parts while troubleshooting.
The voltage of each terminal is 120 V AC and DC when the unit is plugged in.
7-2. QC TEST MODE.
The washer must be empty and the controls must be in the off state.
1. Press the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously.
2. Press the Power button, while the above condition. Then buzzer will sound twice.
3. Press the Start/Pause button repeatedly to cycle through the test modes.

Repair-man · « **Reply #13 on:** June 21, 2009, 10:43:43 AM »

Hmm..no lights, door switch checks good. I'd say you have a wiring harness issue or were sold a bad board, since you have replaced the main board and the user interface. I find it interesting that some of the display lights up when you move the tub.

I seem to recall an issue with the RPS or rotor position switch (motor) on some of these.

Golfnut · « **Reply #14 on:** June 21, 2009, 10:52:54 AM »

Moving the tub "inducing" power does result in the user interface/controls lighting up, LED on main board comes on, ...stopping the tub...everything goes off...

1) could this mean that the main board is ok? LED does come on.

TechnicianBrian · « **Reply #15 on:** June 22, 2009, 08:53:25 AM »

Just my two cents worth. I would find the missing voltage to the board before replacing random parts. Verify voltage into the main board on the white connector between pins one and three from the filter board. If you have voltage, then I would suggest removing all the connectors to the main board, except the one from the filter board, and those going to the display board and see if the display comes on. I suspect you have a short somewhere in the unit that is causing the main board to shut down to protect itself. If that works, you can plug each connector back in until you find the one that shuts it off again. If you don't have power when the connectors are removed, the board has failed, and then it would be time to check each component to the main board for a short circuit.

Golfnut · « **Reply #16 on:** June 23, 2009, 07:47:11 PM »

Quote from: TechnicianBrian on June 22, 2009, 08:53:25 AM

Just my two cents worth. I would find the missing voltage to the board before replacing random parts. Verify voltage into the main board on the white connector between pins one and three from the filter board. If you have voltage, then I would suggest removing all the connectors to the main board, except the one from the filter board, and those going to the display board and see if the display comes on. I suspect you have a short somewhere in the unit that is causing the main board to shut down to protect itself. If that works, you can plug each connector back in until you find the one that shuts it off again. If you don't have power when the connectors are removed, the board has failed, and then it would be time to check each component to the main board for a short circuit.

Thanks. I did check power into the main board from filter. I get 120v between 1 and 2 and 2 and 3 on the outbound connector from filter. 2 is green/ground. No voltage across 1 and 3. Again, voltage between 1 and any ground/2 is 120v. Sam with 2 and 3. So power is getting to the board. Am I missing something? LED is still not on. I also get operating power to power switch on display. This, I'm told by LG, is 120v. This is with all other plugs pullled out of the main board.

RegUS_PatOff · « **Reply #17 on:** June 23, 2009, 09:55:25 PM »

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2

Golfnut · « **Reply #18 on:** June 24, 2009, 05:50:51 AM »

Quote from: RegUS_PatOff on June 23, 2009, 09:55:25 PM

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2

Thanks. I'm not sure what is wrong here. This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V between 1 and 3

Golfnut · « **Reply #19 on:** June 24, 2009, 05:53:10 AM »

Quote from: RegUS_PatOff on June 23, 2009, 09:55:25 PM

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2

Thanks. I'm not sure what is wrong here. This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V between 1 and 3

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Author Topic: LG washer has shut down, no power (Read 63265 times)