How to replace a Whirlpool Duet washer bellow tub door seal

[AJ]

You could always try to do it with the front on as this guy does.


http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=306.msg35699#msg35699


but just remember the person in the above link is a experienced technician that has done many of them over the years.


There is a person in this topic that seem to have had good luck patching one from a maytag front loader.


http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=6507.0

[Sasquatch]

This site is a tremendous find!  So much information, all my local guys want to charge me $175 just to roll up to the door.

I know my problem, it's a leaking gasket on a Whirlpool Duet Front loader. 

I called a repair shop and was told it's probably the pump, it's right in that area and is known to fail.  Repair shop won't sell me a pump unless they come out and diagnose the problem. Off to the internet and find a pump at a relatively low price, have it shipped here and replaced in about 15 minutes.  Fire it up, still leaking.  Upon closer inspection with a nice bright flashlight I notice a slice about an inch long with a small amount of water coming out of it. Yup there's my leak.

Seems I'm going to attempt the tire patch method referenced from another thread. I'm leaving for vacation soon and the Authorized Repair Center needs to come out and make a diagnosis before they will order a part which can take up a week to receive I was told. 

Even though I told them it was the gasket which I made video with my cell phone which no one cares to see. I realize this is their price structure and way of doing business but a little common sense would help keep me a long term customer rather than a disgruntled old man who will go out of his way to avoid these guys and their business practices in the future.

I'm somewhat handy buy I'm not sure I'm confident enough to attempt this.  The pump went flawlessly yet I still wonder if I really did it correctly or if it's just waiting to bite me you know where!

I'll post some of my experiences with the tire tube repair just as soon as I get it done.

Thanks again for all the info out here on this site.  I've been checking the site out all over.

John

[AJ]

 

[rmbraught]

(1) Leave the door open between washes.
(2) half cup bleach in the tub, empty Hot wash cycle once a month
(3) in the U.S. we get to sell 'Afresh' (or similar) wash tablets to the consumer, for monthly cleaning (they do work)

Thanks krazytech; I'll check out 3M Sealant 800!
IMO older full size Duets are OK w/o front panel removed, the Duet Sports require me to pull the panel off (I'm old.) AFA marking the inside boot 'up' fitting, they're both marked by tub/boot molding.

[Animama]

Thank you so much for these instructions. They gave my daughter and me the confidence to replace the door seal.

I recommend using a Sharpie marker to mark the position of the inner bellow clamp before removing it.    You DO NOT want to over tighten that clamp.

Thank you for this hint. It proved very helpful.

[Brent@CanBC]

Have had complete success with the patch job on these boots so far.  Have done 8 now, and no call backs.   I don't use the 3M scotch seal Industrial stuff on the rubber boots,  I used it on other things but not the rubber seals.   
 
I use the "Gloozit" industrial clear stuff successfully now.   I also remove the front spring and access the under side of the boot, where the cut is,  and I apply a transperent 3M scotch 2"x2" patch after cleaning.  This patch on the under side keeps the cut flat, and easy to work with on the upper side.  Then I apply this Gloozit,  and I cover the cut 1"x1" size if its just a smaller cut, and more for the larger cuts.  I let that set and seal,  and apply a second topping,  and let that set and seal over night.  This is very flexible, but the key is to have the 2"x 2" patch on the under side to keep the rubber boot cut in place.  If the customer wants the new boot, they get the new boot.   I do try to work them to the new boot,  but if they hesitate, I offer them the patch, and they do go for that.   In my service area,  as probably yours,  my  people are very quick to make a decision.   They do at times drop off their machines for me, and go buy new in the City,  so again,  they are very quick to act on their problems.   I have done these patch jobs on the dropped off units,  and sold them,  and life just keeps on, keeping on hey.  Brent@CanBC

[doseedo]

Is it possible to do this repair without removing the top of the washer? My washer has the dryer stacked on top and they're both wedged into a very tight alcove...

You've probably solved this by now but I was able to replace the gasket / seal without removing the top and front. My dryer is stacked on top and I wasn't able to take it down.

It takes some patience but it can be done.

Pretty much follow the same steps described here but without removing the top/front.

[schaffersapplian]

Yeah, I change all of the bellows now without taking them apart.  Doesnt matter the brand or size of the machine.  They are all pretty easy without taking them apart.  I must say the Electrolux style bellow is the the hardest though.

[niobrara]

How do you do the back spring clamp without taking the front off? Even then I fight some of them.

[ScottyMo1]

That LG spring tool will not work on whrilpool springs, it does not open far enough to get the clamp back on. I've considered trying to heat and spread the tines on that tool to get a wider spread on it, but for now it's just on my list of things to experiment with. I too find it easier to remove the front of the unit. Usually can be done in about 10 minutes, so adds a little time to the repair, but much easier on the hands and fingers.

[schaffersapplian]

Niobrara, Are you talking about the Electrolux style bellow with the inner spring around the tub?  If so i use the shipping bolts that come with the bellow to hold the gasket and spring in place and work it around.  Its tough, but still quicker for me to do it this way.  I use to take them all apart on all the machines to change the bellows, then i heard about a few techs doing them without taking them apart which sparked my interest.  First bellow i did was on a whirlpool that was stacked, and i forced myself to get it on there without any help.  took me a while the first few times, now its just like everything we do, repetition make's it like clock work. 

[schaffersapplian]

never changed a bellow on a LG washer.

[niobrara]

Man dude your my Hero. Those things drive me nuts. I have to take the front off them.

[PARTech]

That LG spring tool will not work on whrilpool springs, it does not open far enough to get the clamp back on. I've considered trying to heat and spread the tines on that tool to get a wider spread on it

If you take the temper out of them they won't hold, the first tool they came out with were not tempered and you could 'adjust' them by hand to work with just about any model... until they broke or wouldn't hold the bend.  So it's not worth heating them up.... especially not for the price.

[Bkyle1]

Any suggestions on getting the seal back on? We have the smaller version of the door seal that doesn't have a drain pipe through it. We have everything off and are trying to get the new one back on, but it doesn't go on smoothly. I know it is the right part because I bought the wrong one first and we had the ripped bellow off and it was obvious it was the wrong one. I ordered the part directly from the number on the one I took off and it looks right, we just can't get it on. Help!

[bigbuck]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFDqUvBgxH4

[davidyoung100]

This is helpful thank you.

One question: I just had the bellow seal replaced on my Whirlpool duet. Now the small triangular piece of rubber on the seal is at the bottom of the door, pointing upwards. Is this correct? About a half pint of water collects in the seal after every wash and it feels like there are drainage holes at the top.

My technician assures me this is the right way but I'd appreciate a second opinion.

thank yo

[niobrara]

Drain holes are on the bottom.

[RAH52]

Drain holes are on the bottom.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GB-NC]

The video was somewhat helpful.  If you have ever replaced a set of radiator hoses on a car you can do this.  I have an older duet machine that is around 10 years old.  I have had torn bellows before and usually called this into a repair shop.  Seeing this video showed me how simple this was.   I had watched the repair technician once before replace this where he never took off the top and front of the machine. I used this same approach and had it replaced in about 20 minutes.   

I only removed the lower cover below the door to take mine off.  There is a spring clamp that seals the front of the bellow.  I was able to remove this without any tool by slightly stretching the spring. 

Pushing the bellow back from the door I could feel the clamp and locate the hose clamp adjustment on the right side of the bellow edge. There is a large hose clamp that goes around the outside of the plastic drum that loosens using a straight slotted screw driver. I was able to get at the hose clamp by working from the bottom access area with a straight screwdriver bit on a flexible extension.  I loosened this until I could slide it off the bellow and drum.

You first position the new bellow, then tighten the large clamp. I had to press a small fitting through a hole in the top of the new bellow that went between 2 washers.  Then I needed to insert the water feed pipe through the top left portion of the bellow.

The final part of the job was to locate the front seal properly then put the retaining spring ring around the bellow.  I will never pay anyone to do this again.  Thanks