Fuse Keeps Blowing on GE Dryer GTDS560EF0WS

[rb24]

I am having trouble finding information about the fuse that keeps blowing on my GE Dryer (model#: GTDS560EF0WS). It is a 30 amp ceramic fuse located on/next to the terminal block where the plug connects to the dryer on the back of the machine. Without the fuse the dryer will not power on at all.  The dryer has a digital display and it won't even light up without the fuse, so all the power is shut down- not just heat.  I replaced the fuse and it worked temporarily but after running for several minutes it blew the fuse and shut down again.  I don't even really know what would cause this fuse to blow as most information that I see online describes thermal fuses that look very different from this 1 1/4" x 1/4" cylinder.  In addition, those thermal fuses seem to be closer to the heating element or blower to shut down when the dryer is too hot.

Here are some steps I've taken just trying to find anything unusual...

- I've inspected the whole dryer pretty much inside and out and see nothing that catches my unprofessional eye.

- I've tested the plug and outlet with a multi meter and power seems to be flowing at normal levels.

- I tested the continuity of the High Limit Thermostat at both room temperature and while heating it up. It connected normally at room temperature and shut down somewhere between about 275-300 degrees (it's a rough estimate as I was using a rudimentary system I saw on Youtube placing the thermostat on a griddle to raise the temperature).

- I checked the airflow of the vent and it does not appear to be blocked.

- It is not tripping the circuit breaker (in the house).

If anyone could help me figure out what else to look for or point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it greatly!

 

Ryan

[Bearcat]

Hello Ryan,

I would suspect that there is a short to ground on the power line that the fuse is on.  That fuse is not a thermal fuse. It is similar to a house breaker in a fuse form.  If a high amount of voltage ( like 110 volts of more) were to touch a grounded surface, such as the heating element warping enough when hot to make contact with the cabinet, then this fuse would blow.  Also if the motor were in a bind, and drawing too high of amps, the fuse would blow.  Being that it works for a little bit and then blows the fuse again, I would be looking hard to see if that heating element is touching metal when it gets hot.

Cash donations always accepted.

Bearcat
P O Box 8
Hiwasse, AR 72739

[Bearcat]

Another suspect on this dryer would be that the drum has worn through the plastic bearings in the front of the dryer and now has rubbed the insulation off of the wiring, to the door switch or light.  Might give that a look.

Cash donations always accepted.

Bearcat
P O Box 8
Hiwasse, AR 72739

[rb24]

Thanks for responding! I checked the heating element and it doesn't appear to be hitting other metal as best I can tell. I'm only able to inspect it when the drum is removed, I suppose it could be hitting the drum? But that seems unlikely- it doesn't appear like the element is twisted or bent out of alignment toward the drum.

I will take a look at the wires near the drum and see if there is any spot where it has worn off.

Thanks again!

[rb24]

Quick update- not much news but another question.
1) I checked and could not see any wires that were worn.
2) I checked the heating elements again and I can't see a part that is touching anything. Could there be something defective with the heating element in and of itself that would cause it to blow the fuse?  Is there any way to test the heating element?
3) I replaced the fuse and tried running it again while watching it more closely this time so I could note the time and look for anything unusual when it blew.  I started with no heat and it went through a 10 minute short "quick fluff" cycle with no problem. I then turned it back on set to low heat and it shut down within about 3 minutes.  There wasn't anything obvious to me that occurred- it just shut down.

[Bearcat]

Hello Ryan,

After studying the information that you gave me.  I would definitely say that the heating element has a short in it.  There are two heating elements in the dryer.  Both should normally pull about 10 amps and then a few amps for the motor.  Although when I tested a heating element, with those two heating elements shorted together, they pull 15 amps each, for a total of 30 amps, plus the amp draw of the motor, and that is definitely going to put you over the 30 amp limit of that fuse.  If you have a good ohm meter, those elements should read approximately 25 ohms each.  Shorted together they pull around 15 ohms each.  I would say replacing the heating element would solve your problem.

Cash donations always accepted.

Bearcat
P O Box 8
Hiwasse, AR 72739