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Author Topic: anyone got wiring diagram for GE coin-op dryer DDC6000MBL or diagnosis assistanc  (Read 511 times)

Offline archibald tuttle

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The igniter was not heating. pulled it and put it back and it then glowed but not reliably. now i assumed it had a hairline fault and when it pulled it the second time it came in pieces but a new one is not heating so i've got some control that is not reliably made(either the spin switch on the motor or the thermo discs or . . .?).


Even when the dryer is off but plugged in there is line voltage on the white wire on one side of the igniter mount. so i assume the yellow wire is meant to reach ground through one set of temperature discs and possibly througn the motor switch on a guess. I haven't really started seriously physically tracing the harness since it would be so much easier with a diagram or theory of ops instead of starting from scratch.

there is a set of thermal discs in the area of the filter at the front of the dryer and another set at the end of the combustion chamber at the back of the dryer. I'm assuming the ones at the filter are operating limits and the ones at the combustion chamber are overtemp safties but it probably doesn't really matter which is which. since there is a set  in each location i sort of figure they pair one in each location for high temp and low temp selection? or . . . ?

any thoughts or a schematic for this or a similar setup much appreciated. this one is a coin-op but there might be a similar vintage non-coin version that has a similar harness but i'm not good enough to have that analogous model number carried in my head.

thanks,

brian



« Last Edit: February 16, 2022, 04:14:39 PM by archibald tuttle »

Offline Pnwdad1981

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You want to make sure the op stat is closed, thermal fuse isnít open(gas dryers thatís in heat circuit), tco isnít open, radiant heat sensor is in starting position which you will have to locate diagram as I forget if those are NO or NC.. As for the other side of ignitor it goes to a neutral. Itís AC so it wonít go to ground.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2022, 10:26:30 AM by Pnwdad1981 »
🌲PNW Chris🌲

Offline archibald tuttle

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You want to make sure the op stat is closed, thermal fuse isnít open(gas dryers thatís in heat circuit), tco isnít open, radiant heat sensor is in starting position which you will have to locate diagram as I forget if those are NO or NC.. As for the other side of ignitor it goes to a neutral. Itís AC so it wonít go to ground.

sorry, loose terminology when i said ground, of course i meant neutral in phase with ground.

so how do i know which is the opstat and which is the thermal fuse, none of them have resets, they are just all self resetting thermal discs, and there are two of each (i'm assuming for high and low temp setting) .  the sensor is NC and is set that way.

a schematic would go a long way tieing up wire colors and theory of ops but i may just have to open up the dash and start tracing. but looks like all the switching is on the neutral.

thanks,

brian

Offline Pnwdad1981

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Since neutral is a safety and return path it never disconnects thatís how you die. Line voltage is always the disconnect on all AC apps household wiring etc which is why itís easy to trace back. Op stats are on the blower house along with the thermal fuse physically adjacent. Thermal fuses and tcoís are single blow components for safety but they can blow by age too. Hi limit is on burner shroud which acts as op stat till temp gets hot enough at primary op stat to take Over to protect over heating of thermal fuse under normal ops. Hi limit and op stat are discs. Under failure thermal fuses blow when heat doesnít shut off and you have good airflow. Tco are opposite and blow from lack of air flow and over heating at burner/element. What you should hear is first coil click, ignitor glow, click then fire, ignitor off until reaches temp then click fire off, cool down, click, then starts over.
🌲PNW Chris🌲

Offline Pnwdad1981

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I also looked up the stats they look like hi limits 300f +/-50f and ops 150f +/-10/20f. I couldnít find the exact exploded view of that dryer just it looks old and the stats are not even available so hopefully itís not that? And I didnít see the placement of the stats either near the blower house and Iím not sure if it even has a thermal fuse? And from what I can tell I did find exploded view but it looks like the stats are on the housing after the burner assembly which is kind of strange but then again GE appliances are not usually normal.  I donít think I can help you any further unfortunately I wish you the best of luck.
https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/161205/1210928#diagram
« Last Edit: February 18, 2022, 04:00:38 PM by Pnwdad1981 »
🌲PNW Chris🌲

Offline archibald tuttle

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https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/161205/1210928#diagram

thanks, if found some parts breakdowns but this was a good interface. And, in the answering my own question, took the dash apart and found the schematic, i had been looking on the back, or low inside the front of the dryer. so posting here for future reference. It took notime to identify the belt switch as the problem. Thus identifying the next problem . . . discontinued. Anyone got any help on this. missed one on ebay a month ago:  WE4X532. A long arm normally closed bakelight physical sensor pictured below, bolted to mount with two bolts. I've got the mount so I don't need that but used ones often come with.

thanks, brian


Offline archibald tuttle

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And here is the wiring diagram


Offline archibald tuttle

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here is a better picture and I think I found an almost plug and play replacement although appliance outlets haven't felt it worth following up with a crossover. I think the form factor is almost identical. it just has the extra tab so you can run it NO or NC!