How do I diagnose a seized compressor? Danby DWC283BLS

[CaptOnH2O]

Hi all. I've got a used Danby wine cooler (dwc283bls) that turns on but doesn't cool.

Symptoms:
A - Digital thermometers display set temp but fridge won't cool.
B - There's also a clicking sound every few minutes, I assume from the thermal protector.
C - Dividing shelf blows air up & down, but back-wall fan in upper part of cabinet doesn't run.

Things I tried:
1 - Checked the relay and it looks intact inside (whole ceramic/metal disk). But it does get warm quickly after turning on.
2 - Bypassed the relay and thermal protector by plugging wires directly into Common and Run terminals, but compressor won't start.
3 - Left relay in place and bypassed thermal protector. Compressor won't start.
4 - Reversed polarity without relay - Compressor won't start.
5 - Reversed polarity with relay in place - Compressor seems to run, but fridge won't cool (not surprised)

I have a multimeter but don't know how to check the running amps. Can anyone help me figure out if this can be fixed? Thanks!

[100 td]

<Reversed polarity with relay in place - Compressor seems to run>
So you reversed hot and neutral?

[CaptOnH2O]

It's a 3-prong compressor, so Common and Run... I think the same as neutral & hot. The start prong was powered either by the relay or I bridged it briefly with a screwdriver to get it running.

[100 td]

<There's also a clicking sound every few minutes, I assume from the thermal protector.>
So the compressor is going out on overload for some reason. It will do this with high head pressure, faulty winding, faulty relay, partially  or fully seized compressor.

< Reversed polarity with relay in place - Compressor seems to run, but fridge won't cool>
Reversing polarity in this situation with relay installed is exactly the same as non reversed due to AC power.

<The start prong was powered either by the relay or I bridged it briefly with a screwdriver to get it running.>
So you got the compressor running, it's not reversed.

So with compressor running, check and feel for cooling where the capillary line goes into the evaporator, is there a cooling plate inside this cooler or is it behind a panel. Listen for gas hissing, surging, liquid changes to gas at this point

[100 td]

...

[CaptOnH2O]

100 td - Thanks very much for your reply. I got injured a few days later and was laid up for about three months. Just now got back to looking at this fridge.

Here's what I've found: After running for an hour, discharge line gets hot to the touch, suction line feels room temp. Evaporator is inside the fridge behind a panel - it barely gets a few degrees below room temp. Condenser coil is behind the side exterior panels - too hard to remove. Fans run OK. Thermistors (3 of them) register equivalent resistance - 2k Ohms at room temp, over 5k Ohms when in ice water. I don't hear any gas or fluid sounds anywhere in the system. Control board looks OK - no obvious signs of burns or corrosion. HOWEVER, the evaporator drain hose appears half burnt... dark on one side, the side nearest the compressor. Could the compressor have overheated and blown its seals?

Otherwise I'm guessing there's a clog in the capillary line? I don't see any fill/empty ports in the system. I have a vacuum pump but is it worth trying to install ports on this thing?

Thanks a bunch!