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Author Topic: GE WPXH214A0WW  (Read 336 times)

Offline tutleyjr

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  • Member Since: Jun 2021
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GE WPXH214A0WW
« on: July 11, 2021, 08:37:48 PM »

Motor wont spin drum.

Offline johnboy3

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  • Member Since: Nov 2012
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Re: GE WPXH214A0WW
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2021, 04:06:39 PM »
Could be any one of a hundred or more reasons.  Maybe give some information of what it will do.

Offline tutleyjr

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  • Member Since: Jun 2021
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Re: GE WPXH214A0WW
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2021, 02:01:43 PM »
Johnboy3,

Thanks for responding to my vague query. Some background: about a month ago our 2004 (or so) GE Profile washer, part of a stacked unit, quit working. Specifically, the drum quit spinning or rotating. Doesn't agitate or spin to remove water. Every thing else appears to function. The washer fills correctly, moves through the cycle, the pump drains the water, but the drum never moves. Initially, we had a repair tech come out to look at it. I just assumed it was a faulty motor. The tech guy gave it the once over and agreed the motor was bad and gave us a quote of between 800 and 900 dollars for a new installed motor. We asked him if he thought it was cost effective and he more or less said, not really.

So we started looking for a new washer.  We were hoping to get more or less the same washer. We never had any problem with it over getting close to twenty years. It didn't take long to figure out that wasn't going to happen. Then we started to look for a stackable unit that would fit in the designed space.  There were very few choices. about the only unit that would fit properly is a Miele unit. We were hoping we could pair it with our GE gas dryer and fit it in the space. The problem with the Miele is the drum capacity is 2.26 cu.ft. The GE profile is 3.3 cu.ft., which is on the small side to begin with. So, my partner and I discussed it and she asked me if I could change the motor out and I said sure I'll give it a shot.

We bought a new motor and I changed it out, without really looking into it too deeply. Of course with hindsight, I can see I should have looked into this more thoroughly. I started reading this forum and it seems many problems originate in either the door latch mechanism or the speed control unit. I bought a aftermarket door latch mechanism. Installed it, same thing, no drum movement. I did notice the machine proceeded through the parts of the cycle where the drum is supposed to agitate or spin more quickly. Even though the machine was draining properly I thought I'd clean out the pump basket, while doing so I found a piece of paper in an envelope taped to the inside of the machine, it's a basic diagnostic trouble shooting guide.  I followed the instructions and did some basic voltage and ohms tests. The first test I ran was a voltage test on the harnesses to and from the speed control unit. The instructions are, "Measure the voltage between pins 5 and 6 on the harness. If the meter reads 0 check the connection in the timer line switch or door lock switch. If the meter reads 120 Vac go to step 4."  The meter read 119.8, so I figure proceed to step 4.  The instructions in step 4 are how to measure the voltage on the ten pin plug from the speed control unit. According to the instructions, "Measure the voltage between pins 1, 2,  6, and 10 of the ten pin plug to pin 5 of the 6 pin plug on the harness. The voltage at pins 2, 6, and 10 should read 120 Vac and 0 Vac at pin 1."  The readings I got were correct. This is as far as I have gotten with the diagnostics. I have tinkered with the door lock mechanism. The aftermarket made a seriously loud buzzing. I took the wax motor out of the new one and put it in the original.  Also, I cleaned up the contact points.  The buzzing is gone, but still no drum movement. So, I'm kind of at an impasse and not sure what to try next. My understanding is if I'm getting correct voltage numbers the door lock and speed control mechanism are functioning properly. But, I really don't know. I should point out, I have time to fix this. We live in NYC. There's a good laundromat a two minute walk away. We already used it for large blankets and rugs, stuff that wouldn't fit in the Profile. And, if in the end, I can't sort this out, we'll just move on. But, I would like to solve this just as a learning experience and to be able to tell myself and my partner I fixed it. Nevertheless, it seems now is the time to look for the cavalry.  Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Offline johnboy3

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  • Member Since: Nov 2012
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  • Country: us
Re: GE WPXH214A0WW
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2021, 10:21:10 PM »
Sorry for a long time responding, but I did want to check in with you.

If you still have the washer, it sounds to me like you were on the right track with the door lock.

Since the washer was built by Frigidaire but sold by GE with GE nameplate, the best way to get parts is through Frigidaire. (much cheaper).  The p/n for the lock is 131763256. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMNah-86pEU
This is a good video of the complete check-out. You may have already done this.

With all the checks you have done, I can't think of much of anything else.  If you decide to get another lock, make sure it is not a knock-off as most of them don't have a good track record.  You should be able to find a NEW Frigidaire manufactured lock for $60 - 75.  Any less than that is not likely to be worth getting!

I did one time have to replace the complete wiring harness to repair one on warranty, but a bad wire is not likely.

Good Luck!