I am in need of a second opinion. I have been posting on another appliance forum and they have been very helpful. I have made some headway in getting my fridge working thanks to their help however, replies have tapered off and my fridge is only partially working.
If it is ok here is the Link to the other forum
to save reposting. I thought that posting this would give a sense to the problem solving which has already occurred. If this is not ok then please let me know and I will remove this.
This was my original post.
I have a 5-year-old Kenmore Elite 795 Lg chassis fridge (795.79022.311. 2015 build). We started to notice a decline in the cooling in the bottom freezer compartment. Usually, when we notice this it means that we need to clean the fur off of the coils at the back of the fridge which we do every couple of years. Usually, this cleaning does the trick and the fridge works as normal until the next episode.
This time we noticed that the freezer compartment was not keeping products frozen but it was cool. We emptied the fridge and left it running. We noticed that the refrigerator compartment cools well within normal limits but the freezer compartment is still not cool enough to keep products frozen.
We removed the panel where the control board is and the LED is flashing six times with a pause and then it repeats. Unplugging the fridge clears the LED error code but it returns are about 10 minutes of operation. From what I have been able to find out about the 6 blink code it may mean that there is a current overload = compressor too hot, bad capacitor, bad PCB, restriction, bad compressor.
If the refrigerator compartment is cooling so well am I to understand that the compressor is not an issue and is functioning normally?
The compressor is warm but not hot. It sounds like it cycles properly and the fan in this compartment functions normally.
I did remove the panel inside the refrigerator compartment but thereís not much there except I am able to view the fan below in the freezer compartment and I was able to rotate it with my fingers and it moves freely and does not feel like itís wobbly.
With the fridge door open and the door switch depressed, the fan does come up after a few seconds and we can feel some air flow movement coming from the top vent in the fridge. I am just not sure how forceful the air flow should be? I imagine this fan services both the fridge and freezer compartment combined or do I have this wrong?
I have not removed the cover inside the freezer compartment yet to look at the coil but I could do that if anybody feels this might give us more information as to what the problem is.
Could I be dealing with a sensor issue that is not relaying information correctly to the circuit board?
My wife really likes the internal configuration of the fridge so we need to determine the fix or replace issue. The fridge is in such good condition it seems a shame to scrap it because of a high repair bill but not out of the question.
Currently, my fridge works for the fresh food section with a tolerable temperature of 36 F for keeping food safe. My freezer however is currently only able to get down to 24 F and I think it should really be 0 F.
Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated. We have been anticipating replacing this fridge but it's very difficult to shop on line given the Covid lockdown where you can visit in-store to see the fridges.
Thanks in advance.