Speed Queen Dryer - low heat output

[S_craig]

Hi, first time poster here. 

I have a Speed Queen (Alliance) ADE30RGS171TW01 electric dryer.  For the past while, the unit works as normal other than it drys extremely slow, and takes anywhere from 3 to 4 cycles to dry.  The cloths will be warm when we open the door, but certainly not hot like it used to be.

These are the things I've checked so far:
- 120 on both legs on the outlet and going into the dryer.
- Continuity on:
   - Thermal Fuse
   - Limit Thermostat
   - Heater element
   - Thermostat

I also checked for voltage going into heating element by first unplugging the dryer, then removing one leg going to the top of the coil, and then remove the other leg going to Thermal Fuse.  Once those where removed, I plugged the dryer back in, turned the dryer on, and the received the following results:

- Wire going to the top of the element received 121 volts at all times, no matter what the fabric selector switch was set on.
- Wire going to the Thermal Fuse:
   - 121 volts when fabric selector switch was set to high heat
   - 70 volts when fabric selector switch was set to med heat
   - 10 volts when fabric selector switch was set to no heat

When I plug these wires back in, and turn the dryer back on, the heating element does not glow or get hot... but does get a little warm. 

One think I didn't check, is even though the Thermal Fuse has continuity, is whether it has continuity when the dryer is running.  I checked both sides of the element while it was running, and both had 120 volts, but it's possible that the one side was simply being fed by the other side, and not really getting a true 120 volts to each side. 

Any ideas what I should check or look at next?  I can't find a wiring diagram as of yet. 

Thanks in advance for any help!
Craig

[Thorning]

Sounds like the heating element is partially shorted . It will still heat somewhat  but is not able to generate full  heat by using all the coils. Not much you can do except to replace it. It will show continuity  from one of the terminals to the other but it will not develop the full heat that you expect to see.

[Thorning]

Not sure if this info will apply to your heating coil but I have a couple of similar heating coils  and the resistance for this type of coil  when measured terminal to terminal is 9.8 ohms for a 5350 watt heating coil. My meter is not a real high tech unit but it appears to be fairly accurate. These measurements were taken with the coil disconnected from any  wire connections in the dryer.. The  heating coil for the dryer you mention is an odd ball type according to the parts illustratipon as compared to most AMANA, , Speed Queen, or maytag type  electric dryers. This info may or may not do you any good and removal of the heating coil will probably still be necessary.

[S_craig]

Thanks, I'll try a new heater element and see if that's the problem. 

[Thorning]

Be carefull removing and putting a new one in as that design is a real PITA to get it in place especially as regards the fuse or thermostat at the RH side. I speak from experience.

[Blaiser]

S_Craig you stated from your original post that it takes 3/4 times to dry. Let's go back to basics - You checked your voltages - Now check your air flow - You need heat and airflow in and airflow out to dry your clothes. Meaning people often overlook the Vent lines and throw blame at the Dryer. First you ruled out the Power you have Power to Element and it does heat - Now you need to thoroughly check your air flow - Disconnect your Vent line from the rear of Dryer and run the dryer with Vent Line disconnected do you feel a good Strong flow of Hot Air?? Do a cycle or two of laundry and see if that changes things?


If your vent line is restricted in any way the internal thermostats and thermistors will short cycle and cycle the heating OFF prematurely! Try this first before you throw good money away. 90% of all the Dryers I service are caused by Blocked or Restricted Vent Lines!!


My personal Dryer had a Bird's Nest between the Brick Wall of the outlet of my home and was shutting down the Dryer. I was blaming the Dryer because my vent line was clear from the Dryer to Wall but blocked from Wall to outside Vent. Also make sure your outside Vent cap "VENTS" Open up fully when Dryer is hooked back up and you get a FULL FLOW BLOWING OUTSIDE!! Let us know what you find.

[Thorning]

Also on the older dryers the vent fan/blower used a plastic blower wheel with a D ring design at the shaft that was held in place on the shaft with a clamp and a snap ring. Over time these would wear out  at the bore and the wheel would wobble and slip on the shaft. It would not push air thru the unit resulting in a failed thermal fuse or other problems. Hope this steers you in the right direction.