Samsung dryer Model DV422EWHDWR/AA

[Thorning]

I bought this dryer a few days ago for a very reasonable price with the understanding that it needed a new heater coil and it had a squeak when turning the drum. I replaced the heater coil and oiled all the drum rollers and the idler roller. And put it back together after checking all the fuses and thermostats. It runs the drum properly but I still cannot get any heat since the coil is not energized. The panel lights up and responds to the various changes I tried. Any suggestions as to where to go next on this model. ? Any help would be appreciated.

[Dash]

Are you sure the thermostats and thermal cutouts are good?  They should all have continuity at room temperature.  Did you replace the burner solenoids?  Is the burner getting 120 Volts when calling for heat?  Is the ignitor glowing?  I rarely have problems with Samsung dryer computers FYI.

[Thorning]

This is an electric type not a gas dryer and yes I checked all t-stats and thermal fuse. They all were good. I opened up the console and the main PCB shows no surface problems. Is there a good way to test the main power relay  on this board for the heater coil ?

[Thorning]

In checking the problems with Samsung electric dryers it appears that the heating coil failure is a fairly common problem after several years  of use. In my case the unit stlll will not provide heat after the coil was replaced. The PCB in the console area is not a type that apparently cannot be easily repaired. Due to the cost I am reluctant to order a new board and wonderd if there is a place that repairs these boards at a lower cost ?

[Thorning]

One of my friends suggested the thermister for this unit may be at fault. What is the best way to test  a thermistser ?

[Blaiser]

Pull your Multi meter out - Check schematic .. check basics!!


Power at wall? 220/240V?
Power from wall to Cord - Trace cord to board? 220/240??
Trace Cord to Board - Power? You getting power to Board?
Check Board Power coming out of relay to wires to heating element when turned on?
Trace Power from Relay to Element - Power 220/240V??


Remove plug from wall - disconnect 2 heating element wire and put probes from meter to heating element - turn on dryer - 220V? there??


Check motor centrifical clutch switch - the black clutch slides out under load to make up contact to heating element. Check to make sure both springs are present on the Centrical Clutch on motor.


If your getting power out of board relay - follow wire schematic down to motor for voltage


Let us know what you find?

[Thorning]

I have done some testing at the main PCB board and so far I have disconnected the main power wires from the large relay. These are the large blue and black wires. With my test meter connected on to the relay terminals I got no voltage when the unit is plugged in to the wall . The blower runs OK.  Prior to this work I rechecked all the items at the thermister, the thermal fuse, the thermostats on the coil enclosure, and the coil itself. All items checked correct with continuity or a proper resistance reading. This PCB is encapsulated in a clear plastic coating  and I dont think it can be opened up for testing  w/o destroying something. Any other suggestions ? I defintely have 220 volts out of the wall outlet as I ran another electric dryer using this supply with no problem.

[Thorning]

 I need a schematic for this unit. Can someone help ?

[Blaiser]

Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I25dS6n6O8E

[Thorning]

 I am still not having any luck on this unit after more testing. Any other suggestions out there ? My guess is that the main PCB is bad and not turning on the relay for the heating coil but I cant see any way to test it .

[Thorning]

This unit is driving me crazy trying to find the problem. I took it apart again and checked everything including  the contacts in the centrifugal switch area to see if they were sticking or not closing. They were not in real bad shape but I cleaned them using an emery board . I cant find anything to pinpoint the problem. The thermister was checked, the thermal fuse  and the thermostats and the heating coil and nothing shows as a problem. I am probably going to buy a main PCB  as a last ditch effort but if anyone has any other thoughts on this non heat problem I would really like to hear from other techs with suggestions.

[Blaiser]

If your getting power into board and not getting power out of the relay going to the heating element (as in the video I sent you) you more than likely have a bad relay on the board. You should be getting 220V coming out of relay. I've replaced the relays on these types of boards but you have to dig the board out of the casing with an electrical knife then I use a Dremel with a wire wheel and grind the insulation back until you get to the contacts on the Board (it's a bit tedious but can be done) if your not into that much work you can always purchase a rebuilt board for $100. from a Supplier I found on the net. You must be a Technician to order at wholesale pricing.  www.servicerparts.com or if you have time send the board back and have it rebuilt. Sometimes they have core boards in stock - sometimes they don't it's hit or miss. Or find one on the net - depends what you want to put into it and what you want to sell it for!


Let me know what you find! Relays are easy to solder in yourself if you have the proper Professional Soldering Station - I bought it for under $100. and it paid for itself the 1st job!

[Thorning]

This is most likely the problem and your response is greatly appreciated. I have considered digging the material out around the relay and replacing that but I will check out the service you mentioned before I go that route.

[Thorning]

As I am not a person to give up easily. I made up a jumper connector to plug into the large blue and black wire connectors where they would normally plug into the heater relay on the PCB. The jumper was made from adequate wire size to prevent a melt down. The dryer was turned on and it now  heats properly. As this indicates the relay is the problem I now have to source a new PCB or cut the PCB apart to replace it. I have a relay from a Maytag  dryer board but it appears to be a 24 volt coil and I think the Samsung item is a high voltage type. Has anyone ever been able to cut this Samsung PCB apart and replace a relay ?