Get Answers to your Appliance Repair Questions

Disclosure: This website contains affiliate links, Meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.

Your Privacy Rights

Washer Parts  ·   Dryer Parts  ·   Refrigerator Parts  ·   Dishwasher Parts  ·   Range/Cooktop/Oven Parts  ·   All Appliance Parts 

Author Topic: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1  (Read 4483 times)

Offline srobertss

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2014
  • Posts: 2
Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« on: February 22, 2014, 12:49:50 PM »

Our Maytag washer started acting up 3 weeks out of warranty.  It sounds like it might be the  timer board, but we would like to get the service manual if possible.

It gets to the spin cycle and stops and the lid unlocks.  The only way to get it going is to clear the memory and put it on spin.  If you put it on rinse/spin it gets into a mode of trying to sense the water level and wont budge beyond that.  then finally the spin cycle stopped working altogether.  It's intermittent also.  Most recently we couldn't start it at all. 

If a service manual isn't available, would it be a safe bet to just replace the timer board? 

Thank you!
MVWC350AW1

Offline srobertss

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2014
  • Posts: 2
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2014, 08:56:22 PM »
this is to follow up on the solution to this problem in case anyone else is interested. we never found a manual. so we took a stab in the dark and ordered a control board based on the diagram on the maytag website. the instructions for calibrating the control board were helpful and this website has excellent videos to show how to install it: appliancevideo.com. we also ordered an actuator switch since its relatively cheap and sounds like it could wear. But the control board fixed the problem. now we have a spare actuator switch and hopefully we never have to buy another washing machine.

Offline AJ

  • Technician
    Administrator
  • Member Since: Jun 2007
  • Posts: 10992
  • Country: us
    • ApplianceJunk.com - Appliance Repair
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2014, 09:03:24 PM »
Awesome, thanks for the update!

Offline Cinquefoil

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Jan 2020
  • Posts: 4
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2020, 08:36:40 AM »
May I resurrect a zombie thread?
Same washer: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
Similar issue: In Normal Regular cycle, the Spin light comes on but the lid does not lock, it does not spin, and 10 minutes or so later it is "Done."  Drains fine - clothes remain soaked. 

But the washer spins fine in the Delicate and Rinse/Spin cycles.  Only the Normal Regular cycle has this issue.  So I am assuming it is not a lid switch issue.

I have the tech sheet for reading the F#/E# binary codes.  Will be looking at those this week.

I am looking for the Job Aid Technical Manual for this model.  It is not the same as the ML-3 for the MTW5000 series.  Could someone point me in the right direction for the repair manual?

Hoping that I am looking at replacing a capacitor or maybe a wire issue, and not a $350 logic/control board. 

Thank you, in advance.

Offline dab147315

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2010
  • Posts: 5250
  • Country: us
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2020, 12:26:14 PM »
Google this and that is your manual.
       JOB AID W10329932

Offline Cinquefoil

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Jan 2020
  • Posts: 4
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2020, 10:55:22 AM »
I appreciate the quick response.  However, that is not the manual for this machine.  In particular, the console is very different.  The  JOB AID W10329932 applies to these machines:

MVWC400XW
MVWX500XW
MVWX550XW
MVWX600XW
MVWX700XW
WTW4950XW
WTW5500XW
WTW5550XW
WTW5600XW
WTW5700XW

I was hoping that the MVWC350 was close enough to the MVWC400 to be able to us this manual, but apparently not for the issue I am addressing.  Thank you.

Offline jeff5may

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2014
  • Posts: 48
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2020, 08:25:49 PM »
This model is a VMW (vertical modular washer). Tech sheet should be in the top behind the control panel. Previous recommended job aid applies to your model as far as major mechanical and troubleshooting. Put in service mode and read out error codes, test away, calibrate, etc. If something doesn't work it's broken. If that something is setting a trouble code, there's your answer. If no codes exist, the control board has Alzheimer's, there's your answer.

Not exactly the same as the other 300 models that share the same design? It has a red shifter in it. Still being built that way now. The shifters go wonky, as well as the wire harnesses and connectors. Zip ties and vibrating wires make broken wires under zip ties. If you force a vmw to run with wonky stuff in the bottom, the control board eventually pays the ultimate price. Now you need a control board plus the original cause.
« Last Edit: January 19, 2020, 08:35:34 PM by jeff5may »

Offline Cinquefoil

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Jan 2020
  • Posts: 4
Re: Maytag Centennial Washer MVWC350AW1 Spin Issue - Wet Clothes
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2020, 01:44:52 AM »
 :thanks:

Thank you for the response!  You pack a lot of information into tight sentences.

Here is where I am at:

Maytag Centennial Washer MVWC350AW1 Spin Issue - Wet Clothes

Verified complaint: Normal/regular cycle ends with clothes soaking wet, one rinse or two.  Other cycles (delicate, rinse and spin) work fine.

Diagnostic fault code displayed: F7 E1 (Basket Speed Sensor). Clears, and returns only when a 90-minute full cycle is run.

Automatic test mode:  Function "Shifter Moves To Spin Position" seems quiet.  Other functions fine and clothes are spun.

Manual test mode: Low spin and high spin do not appear to spin.  Agitation cycles ok. 

Physical inspection: Drive belt, harnesses, connections appear ok.  Checked under the zip ties I could reach.  Basket does not bind. No excessive soap residue.

Test #3A: Drive System - Shifter:  These electrical tests are where I have questions, as I have little experience here.

Found J16 connector on main control unit.  Ohmeter across pins 1 and 2 should be 2k-3.5k ohms.  Reads infinite resistance, assuming I am using my analog meter correctly.

Could not find J2 connector.  Is there a diagram somewhere?

To perform continuity tests, do I need to connect the meter from the main control board on the top of the machine to the shifter assembly on the bottom of the machine?  That is longer than my meter will reach.   Is there a YouTube video showing how to perform these tests? 

I believe I am I far enough along that the first part swap solution is to replace the shifter assembly, part number W1000635.  This means assuming no issues with a wiring harness, the optical sensor, or the main control unit, or anything else I did not test.  I'd still like to learn how to properly perform electrical tests, if you can point me in that direction.

I ordered the shifter assembly; replacement will be this week's task.  Already watched two videos on how to do that.

Thank you again.   
 
« Last Edit: January 20, 2020, 01:47:59 AM by Cinquefoil »

Offline jeff5may

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2014
  • Posts: 48
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2020, 10:44:47 AM »
The wash/spin shifter motor, the rpm sensor, and the mode sensor switch are all inside the same housing. It's an easy and cheap enough part to replace just to remove doubt. I've seen a VMW or two that had the encoder slots clogged up with goo, mainly from a leaky tub seal that washed the grease out of the bearings. While you are down there, check for the Rusty chocolate milk residue. This indicates your gearcase is on the way out.

As far as electrical testing, J2 is on the cycle control board and connects to the shifter assembly. Black and gray are the power wires, pink and blue are the mode switch and optical rpm sensor wires. The power wires should provide a constant 13 VDC at the shifter assembly whenever the unit is not in standby. The blue shifter wire should be a steady DC voltage at the control board, which changes only when the shifter arm switches positions between wash and spin. The pink rpm wire should be a steady voltage when the basket is at rest, changing to pulses which average out at about 6 volts when the basket is moving. Ground reference is the gray wire.

« Last Edit: January 20, 2020, 10:53:00 AM by jeff5may »

Offline jeff5may

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2014
  • Posts: 48
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2020, 11:21:48 AM »
The J16 connection to the shifter assembly is the high voltage feed for the synchro motor that toggles the shifter arm. The control board sends 120VAC down the wires when it's trying to change between wash and spin modes, or when it's trying to determine what mode the gearcase is in. If the control board cannot see the mode switch on its input, the shifter motor will continue to run for around 30 seconds or so until the control board stops hunting for the position. The control board may try to run the drive motor after it finishes hunting, with unintended operation followed by flashing lights and error codes generated. This could cause problems with the splutch assembly and pulleys and such if it happens in certain unpredictable positions. I believe the shifter motor shares its neutral wire with the drain pump, so if the drain pump is also dead, this indicates a bad neutral connection or wire.

Offline dab147315

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2010
  • Posts: 5250
  • Country: us
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2020, 12:49:08 PM »
@Cinquefiol Here is your tech sheet.

Offline Cinquefoil

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Jan 2020
  • Posts: 4
Re: Maytag Centennial MVWC350AW1
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2020, 07:12:07 PM »
Replacing the shifter assembly solved the problem.  Had to wait and watch a full cycle to be sure.

Of note: The changes between MVWC350AW1 Tech Sheet - W10468340 - Rev B and Rev C are significant, and specifically Rev C adds to the explanation and procedure for addressing this issue.  Also, the new genuine Whirlpool part has a slightly different number on its label, though same part number when ordering and it appears identical.  49TYZ-E120A replaced 49TYZ-110. I might pull it apart to try to see what failed.

Thank you again to everyone who provided information.  I could not have done this without you.  :cheers: