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Author Topic: 2003 Kenmore, starts to spin, stops, click click, trans and clutch just replaced  (Read 204 times)

Offline rick8989

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  • Member Since: Nov 2019
  • Posts: 5

Hi Everyone,

Kenmore 110.23034102

We've had this machine since new. 

My original problem was: Sometimes, the machine would not go into spin at all. The drum would stay stationary. If I opened and closed the lid (or pushed the timer off/on) I got the loud clunk, the transmission engaged, and the machine would spin right up. I knew the neutral drain was bad in the transmission. All other operations worked fine.

So, I replaced the transmission (and the clutch assy and coupler while I had the unit apart). Now, I have a different problem. Now, the machine will always start to spin. Sometimes - it spins right up as it should.

But sometimes, it starts to spin: But it spins noticeably slower, and has a click click click for a few seconds. If the washer is empty, the clicking will stop and the drum will eventually get up to full speed. If I have a regular load inside - the drum stops spinning. It sounds like it goes into a thermal or electrical overload - because the whole machine stops and goes silent. 60-90 seconds later - I hear a click, and the drum starts to spin up again.
When it does this: If I unplug the machine, plug it back in, and pull the timer, I sometimes get the loud clunk and it will spin up as normal.
     The machine never did this prior to me opening it up to change the transmission.

The brake release cam looked fine. The only other thing I "touched" is the wiring connectors on the motor. And, I tilted the machine backwards to get the transmission out. What did I do that is causing this new problem?

I am wondering if it is the motor drive control/switch (that is part of the motor assy). How does that work? Is that where the centrifugal switch is? Can that motor drive switch be acting up and causing this? Could the click click click I'm hearing be coming from there?

Thanks for your help.

Video of it attempting to spin up, but stopping.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz9EAuahnY0

Video of it spinning up quickly, like it should.  No clicking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofm6o-3k_dw

Offline rick8989

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  • Member Since: Nov 2019
  • Posts: 5
Ps. 

If the machine is empty, when it's acting up:  The motor starts slowly, but will eventually get up to speed and continue to run. 

If I have any load/weight in the machine:  The motor will stop after trying to get up to speed for about 5 seconds.   It's like it hits either a spin time-out or a thermal circuit breaker. 

When it's acting up:  By the way it starts so slowly, it seems like the capacitor isn't kicking in.  I know the capacitor helps get the motor up to speed quickly. 
However, I replaced the capacitor today. 

My wiring diagram shows that the capacitor wire goes through that Motor Drive Switch.  So, again, I'm wondering if that has gone bad internally.

Any thoughts . . . ?

Offline Blaiser

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  • Member Since: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 710
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[font=.SF UI Display][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold]You said you replaced the capacitor correct ? Was the capacitor check with meter for correct UF reading? Typically when you get the clicking I find itís a bad capacitor. It is possible also you have a drag on the transmission also but clean the contacts on the motor switch you might find the connects are burnt.[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold][/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold]What I do is start eliminating the parts on the washer (I.e. - bypass the lid switch so I can run washer while Cabinet is off the frame then I remove the pump by removing the (2) Spring clips then run washer to see if washer still clicks. Then I remove the motor with wiring harness still attached and then start washer to see if it still clicks. Iím betting your contacts are burnt and just need cleaning up along with new capacitor should do the trick.[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold][/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold]Now there is a possibility your start switch centrifuged switch post mounted on the motor (burgundy or black in color the post is WHITE in Color) white post could be broken at the very bottom this controls the high speed spin on the motor it snaps on the bottom and the contacts will not open and close under load. Check this Out and let us know. [/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold][/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay-Semibold]Iím trying to post a picture to show you but it wonít allow me, [/font][/color][/font][/size]

Offline rick8989

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  • Member Since: Nov 2019
  • Posts: 5
Hi Blaiser,

I'm sorry, I can't get the photos to load clearly.

Thank you!

Today's update:

Sorry for all the details.  The really important question is in the middle of this.

Motor switch pins 1 & 10 = 0 ohms. 

When I pulled the cover off I can see the contact pads separated.


Lid switch reads 0 ohms, open, 0 ohms, open - with opening and closing of the lid. 

Opened the motor switch:  Burnished all the internal contact pads.  Burnished all the external wire terminal blades. 

This photo was before I did that.





What is the small switch right behind the motor switch?  The disconnected white wire goes to it.




After I cleaned all that; the first time I ran it, when it went into Spin, It acted up, started slowly, click click click, and stopped.  Apparently I used too small a Lid Switch jumper wire and it melted!   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFRT-_qVpt8


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=003B-B8pHRg


I replaced that Lid Switch jumper with a thicker gauge wire, have run the washer 5 times, and it has run beautifully ever since.


The lid switch measures 0 ohms when closed. 
I was surprised how much current goes through it (because of how the thinner jumper melted).

Is there any way the lid switch is my problem?  Maybe it measures 0 ohms with no current on it - but has a higher resistance when the normal operating current goes through it.  That is my basic question.


Other notes and questions:

My wiring diagram shows the Speed Switch goes through the Centrifugal Switch.  Does the Start Spin mode go through the Speed Switch? 
Is it a player in this game?


I can see plastic from my brand new clutch assembly all over the top of my new transmission, and also flying in the air when it goes into spin.  Why?



The machine has a terrible out of balance, even when there is nothing in it.  I removed and rotated the agitator 180* and there is no difference. 
I removed the agitator and ran the spin cycle and it is also out of balance - just not as severe.
Is something else worn out?  Or is it this transmission?  Or, is this okay?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GG4u-ptvxFs


Thank you again for all your help. 

Rick
« Last Edit: November 19, 2019, 12:41:41 PM by rick8989 »

Offline rick8989

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  • Member Since: Nov 2019
  • Posts: 5
Blaiser helped me through my repair.  The Motor Drive Switch had a broken post on the switch which made my problem intermittent. 
A new switch fixed my bad start - click click click problem.
3 new suspension springs, a new counter balance spring, and 3 new sliding pads fixed my excessive vibration.
It purrs like a kitten again.
Thank you Blaiser for all your help!