Author Topic: gas dryer will not spin (Read 9785 times)

173green · « **on:** January 11, 2009, 06:48:06 PM »

I have a dryer that stop spining. The motor only hummed but don't spin. I changed the motor #279827 and it still only hums (with or without the belt attached). with it humming if I spin the blower wheel (without the belt) I can get the motor to start spin but once I stop it it will not restart without spining the blower wheel. I do notice that I don't need to push the start button it will start hummig once I turn the large knob. The motor had a sticker that said it thermostatly controlled is there something that reglates the amount of power to the motor? or any other suggest I could try?

Model Number: LGR4634JQ2

Repair-man · « **Reply #1 on:** January 11, 2009, 07:40:54 PM »

You must have a proper voltmeter. With the voltmeter attached to the L1 and Neutral legs (120 volts) of the power cord, activate the start button on the dryer. If there is a significant voltage drop at this point, you have electrical issues not involving the dryer, most likely in the Neutral circuit of your house.

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173green · « **Reply #2 on:** January 11, 2009, 08:24:10 PM »

thanks for the reply. It is a 110v gas dryer. I don't have a voltmeter but tryed a different outlet ad the same results. any other suggest?

JWWebster · « **Reply #3 on:** January 11, 2009, 09:32:53 PM »

You could have a bad start switch, I saw one do that before.The contacts were welded together inside the start switch.Small el cheapo looking mexican imported switch. The kind you raise the locking tab slightly and twist it a quarter turn to remove it.

173green · « **Reply #4 on:** January 12, 2009, 06:03:06 AM »

So a bad start button cause the motor to hum but not start unless I spin the motor?

Repair-man · « **Reply #5 on:** January 12, 2009, 06:25:22 AM »

Quote from: 173green on January 12, 2009, 06:03:06 AM

So a bad start button cause the motor to hum but not start unless I spin the motor?

Maybe, but a bad timer contact will reduce current to the motor. You can always bypass the start switch to see.

Steps to a no-run dryer:

1. Check timer contacts for continuity.

2. Check voltage to motor, contacts 4 & 5, (120VAC).

3.Check motor windings for continuity, (2-4 ohms).

4. Check PTS contacts R1 - R2, while pushing start switch.

5. Check PTS relay coil R2 - CT1 for continuity

This is a science, so having a meter is a must.

173green · « **Reply #6 on:** January 12, 2009, 07:21:32 PM »

On the back of the timer switch what wires could I jump to test the timer?

JWWebster · « **Reply #7 on:** January 12, 2009, 07:43:58 PM »

I do not think the timer could be it. But what you could do is remove one wire at a time using the process of elimination being careful not to get the crap bit out of you or shorting wires to the cabinet and see if the problem is with the timer. Don't ever jump any thing on the timer. I cooked a whole dryer harness one afternoon. It was not pretty.

RegUS_PatOff · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2009, 02:53:17 AM »

Safer to just measure the voltage drop across the Timer contacts

LGR4634JQ2 Wiring Sheet

Repair-man · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2009, 05:55:46 AM »

Reg, this has been the whole problem all along. This person has no meter and wants to jumper things to find the problem.

I have stopped answering his questions after I found this out, and for future reference, I will not provide repair solutions to anyone who does not have a meter when they ask a technical question. The rest of you do as you please, but I don't play that.

One of these days someone is going to be severely electrocuted by following advice they were given by a technician, even if he meant well. If people want to fix their appliances, they must be willing to do so under safe conditions pretty much as we do. We can't assume they will have the same respect for electricity nor understand what can happen if they make a mistake while handling live voltage.

It's like giving a 9-year old a machine gun...he just might blow his own head off.

173green · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2009, 05:19:39 PM »

Reg & WJWebster thanks for your help. I did see the disclamer about having voltmeter before register. I must have missed it. I just hope everyone has a voltmeter before asking a question or Repair-man will never get to answer any questions....

Repair-man · « **Reply #11 on:** January 13, 2009, 05:31:34 PM »

Rather than take a shot at me, just follow the rules next time and you won't be disappointed. My track record speaks for itself.

JWWebster · « **Reply #12 on:** January 13, 2009, 10:23:50 PM »

What about the rollers, drumglide, and idler? Does the drum turn easily? Geez a new motor and she still boggs down? I could see the concern if we was talking 240 volt dryer. And messing with any kind of Shocktricity is tricky. I commend RM for his stance. Maybe they sent you a bad motor. After checking for motor bearing stiffness, I would BRIEFLY apply 120 volts to the motor on the blue and white wires using a suicide cord to see if them puppys run. But that in itself might be TMI to the layman.

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