Author Topic: Neptune possessed and is NOT wax motor R11,Q6 snafu (Read 11361 times)

thewebb · « **on:** January 06, 2009, 11:16:46 AM »

have a 10 year old Maytag Neptune Washer MAH4000AWW serial number 40325053WH. Thankfully I had the mold remediation kit/drum liner/wax motor replacement years ago by class action settlement and has been performing great until recently when it acts as if it was possessed or on steroids.

It rapidly advances through all cycles as it fills,washes,spins and drains before shuttting off in the 2nd or 3rd rinse cycle,likely due to too much water in drum.(doesn't pump out as fast as it's filling for next rinse cycle). When starting up again(by manually moving dial to end of rinse cycle so as to drain) it continues same fast advance through cycle but further continues to fill even after pressing stop. It requires unplugging from outlet to stop the filling. Otherwise it would advance around the dial to another wash option cycle.

So...based on searches to forum it appears I may have a control board issues...but please read on as it is not yur typical R11 Q6.

Attached picture is the motor control board, notice the discolored area around the components at bottom right of board(are they resistors?) Is this scorched or normal? If so I know the next step is not just the board but a motor conversion kit.

For the machine control board,there is scorched spot on backside of board Conn 2 behind pin 8 which corresponds to Water Temp input 2(see attach of green board). R11 and Q6 is fine(at least no scorch).

questions:
1) are these boards the culprit and replacing them will exorcise the demons of a tired but damn good worker?
2)Are these boards toast or can they be DIY Radio Shack circuit board modified vs. $200/ EACH?
3)Is there any other component/part to check that may contributing to rapid cycle advancement?
4) based upon replies to above questions can I use scavanged parts from sister models MAH3000 and MAH5500(preferred according to what I've read online)?

many thanks ya'll,
tw

Repair-man · « **Reply #1 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:05:50 PM »

You'll need the 22002989 machine control and the 12002039 motor conversion kit to put it back to new again.

Part # 22002989 Board, Control, AP4026827

Part # 12002039 Motor - Drve, AP4010145

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #2 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:11:22 PM »

Quote from: Repair-man on January 06, 2009, 02:05:50 PM

You'll need the 22002989 machine control and the 12002039 motor conversion kit to put it back to new again.

What about the wax motor, 12002535?
Do you think that should be replaced too?

Part # 12002535 Wax Motor Kit, AP4009198

Repair-man · « **Reply #3 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:12:38 PM »

For $13 more? Dang right

Quote

Are these boards toast or can they be DIY Radio Shack circuit board modified vs. $200/ EACH?
3)Is there any other component/part to check that may contributing to rapid cycle advancement?
4) based upon replies to above questions can I use scavanged parts from sister models MAH3000 and MAH5500(preferred according to what I've read online)?

Please don't mention mixing parts or scrapping other parts for repairs like this unless you want us to split a gut laughing. I'm all for doing things the cheap way, but riggin' something ain't it.

One note:

On the mchine control, be sure to swap wire for wire, especially at the black power relay where the gray and black wires are attached. They must be wired on the relay in the same position on the new board as the old, or the control may short and rapid-advance.

thewebb · « **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:21:21 PM »

ok, gotcha.
but I found Neptune service manual online that implies MAH4000 and MAH 5500 are identical in parts, except older serial # MAH5500 have the motor conversion kit standard(so to speak).

Repair-man · « **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:41:22 PM »

The 5500 was made similar to the 4000 only the first year, and it had a timer knob, etc. Then they changed it to a digital machine and eliminated the wax motors completely. This was the turning point at serial numbers starting at 53. I own one now.

That same year, we came out with a MAH6500 designed primarily for Home Depot. It looked exactly like the 5500 and had a heater also.

thewebb · « **Reply #6 on:** January 06, 2009, 07:38:19 PM »

I just don't have the money now for new machine or parts from distributor(>$200 each +$25 for wax motor. Authorized Maytag repair will be here Friday just so I can claim motor board under 10 motor warranty( and they can't say for fact that even that will be honored from Maytag/Whirlpool HQ customer service) It's up to the repair guy. So as backup plan I could keep an eye out for older MAH5500 for parts. I could have picked up a MAH3000 locally for $25. Yea, I know the risk. But my choice at worst is I could spend $450 in NEW parts and year later be looking at tub bearing(not sure I can do that, haven't read details). Or buy old mechanical switched(vs. digital) MAH5500 that was repaired under class action suit(all the old issues resolved) as I got a gut feeling this is a damn good machine that will out last anything I could buy new.

BTW... when I say I don't have the money it's not because of the current economy. I've been a stay at home dad for 7 years but start soon a new job offering enhanced energy saving technology(doesn't use any added energy source) for walk in coolers/refrigeration/food processing. if OK (not a forum violation) to send URL link I'll reply later to anyone interested in private email.

Repair-man · « **Reply #7 on:** January 06, 2009, 08:18:12 PM »

The tech might cover the motor conversion under the 10-year motor warranty...I did it many times. But not the wax motor, nor the $200 machine control. So how do you justify paying the Maytag tech the $128 labor charge to replace just one part?

Just curious...

thewebb · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2009, 06:41:26 AM »

yes, that I had to consider. First there is just a $60 dollar diagnosis fee(if he says it's under warranty) I will do the install after they ship me the part. So I'm only $60(or $128) instead of $200. I still have to justify paying $nearly $300 dollars when who knows the tub bearing may go... knock on phenolic board!

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #9 on:** January 07, 2009, 06:47:33 AM »

Quote

if he says it's under warranty

Be sure to have a cold pop and maybe even some cooks ready for him.

thewebb · « **Reply #10 on:** January 07, 2009, 12:25:28 PM »

BTW...do I really need to replace another wax motor when it was replaced years ago, I have the "good" one that is black plunger. They may have replaced machine board too even though there was no failure up to that time. The wiring schematic has hand written notes with re:different colored leads, etc on it from his install.

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #11 on:** January 07, 2009, 12:36:28 PM »

Quote

BTW...do I really need to replace another wax motor when it was replaced years ago, I have the "good" one that is black plunger.

Sounds like you already have the new style wax motor.
Unless your technician see's something wrong with it I would say it should be ok to keep it.

thewebb · « **Reply #12 on:** January 07, 2009, 01:41:07 PM »

thanks for all the advice, I'm just trying to do the "green thing" and keep this out the landfill and keep more money in my pocket. But it's hard when coonsidering a so, so Whirlpool front loader at Costco is $400. Anyone have a clue why machine control board burned at backside of Conn 2 behind pin 8 which corresponds to Water Temp input 2(see attach of green board) ?

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #13 on:** January 08, 2009, 09:07:52 AM »

Quote

if OK (not a forum violation) to send URL link I'll reply later to anyone interested in private email.

Please email or PM me the URL.

Thanks,

AJ · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2009, 09:09:07 AM »

Send me the URL too, thanks.

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #15 on:** January 09, 2009, 01:45:13 PM »

Did the technician get there yet?
Any updates?

thewebb · « **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2009, 07:33:00 AM »

sorry, should have sent reply to forum, not personal.
Tech guy (A&E repair for Maytag/Sears) called to give me ETA and I described problem and told him I had already taken out the boards to which he said
1) wouldn't grant motor conversion kit under warranty as it was the board that failed, not the motor.
2) I had already removed parts so that voided warranty anyway. I was cognizant of that but I just didn't have time to put the boards back in place and button all up before he arrived. So I told him to go to next call, saved diagnosis fee of $65.

I needed a washer to match the dryer so I picked up a MAH3000 from craigslist for $50 to get me through for now. My MAH4000 has all the updates like the new tub seal and wax motor but the MAH3000 has the original flawed seal and wax motor and the moldy crap problem. I'll get some of the Affresh solution for now until selling the MAH3000 washer after finding both boards for the MAH4000 from a scavenged MAH5500 or a working early serial number MAH5500. Remember I'm trying to match the dryer and keep my wife's insanity from rizing up again. I know this all sounds round and about but I didn't know the MAH3000 was that different than a 4000, although they look identical the machine control board will not interchange.

Get Answers to your Appliance Repair Questions

ApplianceJunk.com

Appliance Repair Forum