Frigidaire Wall Oven Not Baking!

[1mortime]

I have a Five-year-old Frigidaire wall oven, model PLEB30S8CCB. The Bake element will not heat up. Broil element works fine. I change the bake element. Still not baking. It has a digital control unit. When the temp. is set at say, 350 degrees, you can here the relay clicking however the temp. does not rise above 105 degrees. Can you advise? Thanks!
 

[JWWebster]

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5122841
Check the probe quick connect for corrosion. when you go to the link type in the keyword, probe. NOTE: buying a new probe might be a waste of money because the new one comes with wire nuts to bypass the connection. I bypass the dang quick connect especially if it looks like it is greasy and corroded.

[RegUS_PatOff]

never mind ...

[1mortime]

**Check the probe quick connect for corrosion** -  **bypass the dang quick connect especially if it looks like it is greasy and corroded**

Thanks for the quick reply!!!!
You are dealing with a novice! Looking at the probe from the inside of the oven will get it done – correct? I think that I would have to kill the power and then, either remove the screws that hold the probe in place or remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then remove the trim and access the probe and its wiring from the rear; correct? I have a question; why if defective, would the probe only affect the baking element and not the broil?
 

[Repair-man]

Your oven is equipped with a thermal switch like the one shown below. Mounted on the back of he oven cavity, it will open if the outer shell of the oven exceeds 240 degrees, such as during a self-clean cycle.

The part number for this switch is 318004900.

[1mortime]

Repair-man,

Thank You! Why the thermal switch and not the probe as JWWebster suggested. You said, “it will open if the outer shell of the oven exceeds 240 degrees” but if the bake element is not heating, there is no temp. to increase the outer shell temp. and the circuit should remain close to allow current to flow from power source to mother board to element.  I just don’t know; that why my questions remain.  Last thing I want to do is buy parts that doesn’t fix the problem or have a repair person come in tell me it’s the main control board and they don’t have a clue.  Please do take this the wrong way, I thank you and everyone who has an answer to this problem.  I’m just trying to understand so I make the right call.  It’s been a week, an my real boss is putting the pressure on!!!!!
 

[Repair-man]

Your boss??

Listen, all you have to do is whip out your meter and see two things:

1. If there is 240 volts present at the Bake element terminals when bake is selected

2.  If there is continuity thru the 2 contacts on the thermal switch I kindly showed you

This will prevent the wrong part from being ordered.

Don't tell me you have no meter, or I will explode laughing...

If you want to continue with JWs help, I will back way off. He is an expert at guessing.

[1mortime]

 

My Wife~

Start Laughing~

Don’t back-off~

I will pull the oven out after 1400 hrs., have a meter and let you know what going on!  Thanks again!!!!
 
Did say I was a Novice

[RegUS_PatOff]

Your oven is equipped with a thermal switch ... it will open if the outer shell of the oven exceeds 240 degrees...

... Broil element works fine...

[1mortime]

 

Is there a conflict between the two statements?  I'm from the country - spell it out!
 

[RegUS_PatOff]

If the Thermal Switch was bad, neither the Bake nor Broil Elements would work.

Does the Bake Element (itself) heat-up at all ?

When you hear the Bake Relay go ON and OFF, how long between each click ?

A voltage reading at the Elements would tell us more ....

[Repair-man]

I stand corrected. After viewing the diagram, it shows the thermal controlling both elements...good call, Reg. We know its a bad element or the K2 relay on the board. I think we can still rule out the probe

Diagram, wiring

[1mortime]

 
Thanks guys for the great assistance! I’ve been directed by the boss to go to an office Christmas party tonight (hers) for some cheer.  I will get started again tomorrow and provide an update. Start by replacing the relay.

This doesn’t require soldering? 

Thanks again!

[JWWebster]

I have seen guys replace the control and the new part not work either. They replaced probe with new one and no good either. Cut out the quick plug to the probe, put the old parts back on and it all worked. No refund on electrical parts.If it looks like it's been opened and used I won't accept them back and I bet these online guys don't either. I don't care what they may claim.

[Repair-man]

Who said anything about soldering? That's sissy work...

The bake relay is a rather permanent fixture on the oven control (clock). All you do is remove the 4 screws  around the clock and slap a new one in there.

Don't get too frisky at that office party, sport.

[1mortime]

I'm backkkk! 
Truly enjoyed the party~
Back to business, Repair-Man say the relay was a "rather permanent fixture" on the motherboard/clock unit. I was not thinking and tried to remove it but had enough sense to stop and not force it off.  However, can it be removed? Do I have to replace the entire unit.  What's the cost?  100 - 200 

Note* I tried to attach a jpg file but it was to large.

[RegUS_PatOff]

WOW !
a one week party ! 

Relay is soldered on, but could be replaced...

Clock Controller assembly is about $ 166

[AJ]

Note* I tried to attach a jpg file but it was to large.

If you can't resize it yourself feel free to email it to me.
I will resize it and post it for you.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Note* I tried to attach a jpg file but it was to large.

If you have MS Windows Paint, Top Menu Bar > Image > Attributes > Stretch & Skew > try H 50%, V 50% etc...

[1mortime]

  Thanks everyone!!!!
I've resized the jpg file and uploaded it.  Sorry it took so long to reply but
attention was diverted to another pressing matter. Thanks for not giving up on me.

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