Whirlpool GD5NVAXSQ01

[marsch21]

About 11-12 years old.  Defrost problem suddenly developed.  I tested the Bi-metal switch and it has continuity when closed. Then checked Resistance on the heater and got around 24 ohms.  Put into test mode step 2 to activate heater and not getting enough volts through the pink wire to the switch.  I checked line voltage on the control board and fine at 120v.  Not getting 120v through the pink wire at the connector in the freezer or at the control board. Does this sound like a bad control board?  They are only available through 3rd party remanufactures as Whirlpool discontinued the part.  Any experience with hose types of suppliers?   This has been a flawless unit and hope to avoid purchasing a new fridge if practical.

[haroldsappliance]

If you have 120 volts coming off connector P1 Pin 3 pink wire and you do not have that same 120 volts in freezer then I would recommend doing a continuity test from beginning to end on that pink wire as I have found an open circuit on that wire before. Test 120v to neutral in freezer while in defrost mode if it's not there you may have an open circuit in the liner on that pink wire. I've also found an open circuit in the liner on a sensor wire leading to the freezer on a Whirlpool french door refrigerator.

[marsch21]

Wanted to clarify that I'm not getting 120v on Pin3. 

[haroldsappliance]

From everything I see if you verify 120 volts at pins 1 and 2 with unit in diagnostics forced defrost you should have 120 volts at Pin 3 with your other lead at Pin (nuetral) 2.  Pin 1 is L1  (hot lead) and pin 2 is your neutral. Sounds to me like your adaptive control board is faulty. This part is showing no longer available however Google the part number WP2304103 and you'll see one for $150 that says it's refurbished probably just used.