Frigidaire Top Load Washer Timer Stops At Same Spot Every Time

[grace1717]

I purchased a house a couple years ago and it came with a Frigidaire stack, and I can't find any model numbers for the washer.  It doesn't seem too old but I don't think it's newer than a few years. 

So the deal is, everything was working fine and i pushed the timer knob in to shut off the washer in mid cycle because I had an issue with my water pump so I stopped the washer.  Well once I pulled the knob back out it wouldn't kick back on.  Now if I start it over it will start the cycle up to the middle of it and stop, I can advance the timer a notch or two and it will start, but then it will stop on rinse cycle and not go any farther.  I was able to drain the water by lowering the hose, and I checked the lid switch and everything works out.  And I noticed during the agitate cycle if I open the lid it will shut off, which just reinforces that the lid switch is still working.  And since I could drain it I know it's not plugged...  I'm guessing it's the timer, but I don't know A) how to get it off B) is there a way to check the timer switch without replacing it C) is it something else.

Any help is greatly appreciated as I don't have the money right now to buy a new one, or to just start buying new parts and replacing without knowing.  Thanks in advance for any help.

Also if anyone knows a way to find the model number of the washer, or can I cross reference the dryer model number to find it?

Josh

[Repair-man]

I don't have the money right now to buy a new one, or to just start buying new parts and replacing without knowing

What is the model on the dryer?

[grace1717]

This is the information I was able to get from the machin...

-Tech. Data Sheet
#134122900

-Dryer Door
Electrolux Home Products
Model #: FLSEG0RGS1
11/02

-Washer Panel
Frigidaire-Heavy Duty
2 Speed-3/4 HP Motor

Hope this helps, and thanks for the quick response!!  This is driving me nuts....

[Repair-man]

You need to replace the timer. The knob comes off by pulling out a tab behind the timer. I am attaching the Frigidaire Stack Manual below, and it covers the timer on page 93 of the document, as well as all other aspects of this machine. The file is 16 MB so if you are on dialup it will take awhile. You may order the timer thru our parts lookup on the left side of this page.

Frigidaire Stack Manual

[grace1717]

I appreciate all your help with this for sure!!  Thanks for the manual that helped out a lot.  I read through it and saw the part about the lid lock latch coming over and locking the lid down, and now that I think about it I don't remember that happening.  I ohmed out the limit switch and that checked out fine, but i never paid attention to the locking arm itelf, it never kicked over.  The troubleshooting guide from the manual says to measure voltage across the terminals whi/red with neutral on the lid lock (pg 83)...that is the larger plug coming into the lid lock and not the two wires coming into the limit switch, correct?  It says that if it measures 120VAC its bad lid lock and if it measures 0VAC it's bad timer...so what should it measure?  Just a smaller drop?  Curious, what would be shorted together in order to bypass the lid lock?  the two going into the limit switch and the other larger plug into the lid lock (with the correct resistance to complete the correct voltage drop)?

I'm also curious as to what the signals in/out are on the limit switch on the other side of the lid lock and what they go to...I thought with the lid lock working at actually sent power back to the timer to keep it going...is that true?

[Repair-man]

Dude...you breaka my face 


The lid lock is a mere solenoid. Fuggetabboudit.

You may bypass the other one, the lid switch. If you accidently short the lock solenoid wires together, there will be a quick snap followed by the sound of the breaker tripping.

[grace1717]

I had a brain fart...talking about the voltage drop on the plug....

I'm still interested in the bypass question an the other question about the limit switch...

[Repair-man]

Sorry, what part of replace the lid switch assembly is irritating you?

I do not advocate bypassing these things, it's hazardous to kids.

[grace1717]

Don't get me wrong man, and I again I appreciate your help.  I was just curious as what signals were going in and out.  I don't have  aproblem with replacing the the lid switch, or the timer, I was just looking for your input with some of the newer information I came across (and remembered).  When I get home tonight I'll do the voltage checks the manual suggests.  I was just questioning because I wasn't sure if the locking arm didn't engage if that would cause the failure.  I'm at work trying to run through different scenarios...without being at home checking right now.  I got to get this going or my ol' lady is going to hurt me, lol!

Thanks again.  I'll let you know what I find out in the morning.

[JWWebster]

that lid switch can be jumped out.

[grace1717]

Well I checked everything out, and it turned out to be the lid switch!  Apparently the lid lock is more than a solenoid, because I manually moved the lid lock (wasn't locking) and that along with the lid switch depressed, the washer kicked on right away and has run through all the cycles.  So I guess the lid switch and the lid lock both serve as limit switches that both have to be operated in order to activate through the middle of the wash cycle, and to continue throught the rinse and spin.

Thanks for all your help with this, it is greatly appreciated!!  If it wasn't for the manual and the troubleshooting flow diagram, I probably would have spent the money for a new timer when it wasn't needed.

Thanks again!

[Repair-man]

When Mama's happy, everyone's happy...

[DatTape]

What two wires can I jumper to bypass the lid lock when the washer is on drain?  Mom is the only one who lives in the house, and her drain is too small to let the whole washer drain at once so she has to open the lid once or twice while it's draining so it will drain. Any idea what two color of wires needs to be jumpered?

[Repair-man]

Do you have the model number so one of ius can look into it for you?

[DatTape]

Frigidaire FTW3011KW0

[grkeener]

THE LID SWITCH HAS TWO PARTS ONE FOR AGITATE AND ONE FOR SPIN RAN INTO THIS MYSELF A WHILE BACK AND THOUGHT THE SAME THING ABOUT THE TIMER BUT WAS THE SWITCH

[DatTape]

How would I bypass the lid lock so the lid wont lock while on draining?

[Repair-man]

First of all, the drain defective. Rather than making the washer defective also, just turn off the machine at the control when it begins to flood over. Better yet, have the drainrootered out. It must support 17 gal/minute. Not just a good idea, it's the law.

[AJ]

Good to see your still around Repair-man. 

[Repair-man]

Thanks John
I've been extremely busy running service calls lately, and have not had time to devote to all the help forums that I frequented before. Generally, I will respond to any of my posts that someone has commented on, such as the one above.
I am currently in NY attending a business conference, and it is warmer here than inTexas when I left.