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Author Topic: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW  (Read 2767 times)

Offline Caddy4343

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New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« on: May 12, 2017, 06:52:31 PM »

I have a call coming up on a new style GE washer.  I haven't come across the new style yet.   The customer said that he had it checked about a month ago and was told that it has a "blocked motor".  Can anyone translate what a "blocked motor" means and how to repair it? 

Thanks,

Don.

Offline olyteddy

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2017, 12:23:54 AM »
Go to the Google drive and search "GTU". That will get you 2 documents about these machines. The GUD27 is just the current version of these. My experience with this series is that a blocked motor is most often the rotation encoder or its wire is kaput.

http://appliancejunk.com/googledrive

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2017, 06:37:34 AM »
Thank you.  I'll check it out.

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2017, 06:51:25 AM »
By rotation encoder do you mean the speed sensor?  Part number WL49X20360?  Is it hard to get to?

Thanks for your help.

Offline olyteddy

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2017, 03:57:34 PM »
By rotation encoder do you mean the speed sensor?  Part number WL49X20360?  Is it hard to get to?

Thanks for your help.
Yes, although what I've seen mostly is broken wires associated with it, and yes it can be hard to get to as it's mounted between the pulley and the motor.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2017, 04:00:45 PM by olyteddy »

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2017, 10:30:46 PM »
Thanks again.  It looks like I'll have to pull the pulley off.  I see that it has a set screw.  Hopefully it won't be too bad of a job.

Offline olyteddy

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2017, 04:20:11 PM »
The easiest check is to open the front and put the machine in the spin cycle. after a minute or so and a bunch of clunks the motor should spin for a couple of seconds, stop a while, and repeat. If the motor does this but won't get all the way to a spin then you've got a problem with that encoder above the pulley.

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2017, 06:22:10 PM »
Thank you.  You've been very helpful.

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2017, 06:19:57 PM »
I replaced the speed sensor on the washer motor.  Set it for spin and away it went.  Half an hour after I left I got a call that it's doing the same thing.  I found the tech sheet [on the kitchen counter] and ran the diagnostics.  It's showing the code for a blocked motor.   I cleared the code and got it to spin.  If it will spin the motor is working but it will not wash.  Anyone have any ideas?  I'm thinking a bad motor.  There is power going to the motor and shifter.

Thanks Don.   

Offline Caddy4343

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2017, 06:22:52 PM »
I'm also thinking that the pulley might be broken.  Particularly the clips that hold the magnet in place.  I remember seeing pieces of plastic on the bottom of the washer.

Offline Pez.dispencer

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Re: New to the GE washer GUD27ESSJ0WW
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2020, 04:17:18 PM »
Awakening a dead thread, but wanted to share my experience in case it might help anyone. Tl;dr: if you have the "blocked motor" error and there are little pieces of broken black plastic on the bottom cover (as mentioned above), most likely the clips holding the magnet for the speed sensor (hall sensor) have broken, and the fix is to simply replace the motor pulley assembly.

Anyway, if the motor spins initially and then the cycle pauses (cycle light flashes), the motor DOES NOT need to be replaced (as I've seen recommended by other threads). There is a problem with the speed sensor (you will  get a "blocked motor" error message if you put the washer into service mode. Instructions for entering service mode should be taped somewhere under the control access panel, or you can find it online).

MAKE SURE THE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING

The quick check-- If you open the front cover and see little shards/broken black pieces of plastic on the bottom of the washer-- most likely the plastic clamps that hold the magnet for the hall sensor (speed sensor) have broken. Look in between the black impeller and the motor-- if you see a black ring stuck the the motor face, that's the magnet and it's not supposed to be there-- it should be held to the impeller with plastic clamps. Most likely some socks or other articles of clothing have fallen over the side of the tub when removing clothes, and those can get tangled in things causing damage.

If it is the magnet, you don't even need to remove the motor to repair-- order a new motor pulley assembly (about $35), remove the belt, locate and loosen the pulley set screw (1/8 hex drive), remove the pulley (and remove the old magnet if it's stuck to the motor), install new pulley, reinstall belt, and you're done. Follow the service guide to check proper belt tension (you should be able to deflect the belt only 1/2" with your thumb). You might need to loosen the bolts that hold the motor on to reinstall the belt and get it tensioned correctly. Also, the set screw may be very difficult to loosen. On my machine, I did need to remove the motor in order to get the set screw out because I had to heat the set screw with a torch to soften the thread locking compound (though you could use a lighter). I wasn't concerned about melting or damaging the plastic impeller because that whole assembly was getting replaced.

It is difficult but not impossible to remove the motor without removing the entire tub. I recommend placing a 2x4 and another inch or so of support material underneath the pulley before you begin loosening the motor bolts to hold the motor up-- the motor weighs about 20lbs, so it is very awkward handling it once the bolts start to come out.

It is also possible that the hall sensor has been damaged-- repeat the steps above (you will need to remove the motor) and the hall sensor easily unclips from the motor (the little green circuit board attached between the motor and pulley). If there isn't visible damage to the sensor, it's probably okay, but you can test it; however, you cannot test the hall sensor with a multimeter set to AC millivolts as the service manual suggests. You CAN test it easily if you have a DC power supply that reads current, or you can simply use a 9v battery with your multimeter in current mode. Simply connect the + supply to the blue lead, the - supply to the pink lead and set the supply to 10VDC. With the new pulley installed (magnet in place) rotate the motor and observe the current-- there should be 0 current for half the rotation, and about 20mA for the other half (hall sensor opening and closing as the magnetic field rotates). If you're using a battery, connect the positive and negative as above, but connect your multimeter in series with the battery + to the blue wire on the connector and select DC milliamps on your meter.

Hope this helps someone, as the clothes spilling over the side and damaging the speed sensor seems to be a common problem with this unit.