I would be inspecting frost pattern on evaporator, and then also do voltage test on the thermistor, defrost sensor.http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=16283.0
That is a starved, evap. Its important to give it time to fill up if the system just clicked to it. I am not looking at a tech sheet, or fast track, but you should be able to put the unit on freezer side only. and see if evap then fills. Thanks. Knowing this is helpful. I took another photo today (not posted) after it had run all night, and there is more frost on it at the top, but none at the bottom. I will look at the fridge side next opportunity, but we have food in there. It has been working ok till now, but the temp was 55 this morning. So, time to take the food out and get to work. I've found no way to force the fridge to freezer mode only except by connecting a motor controller to the 3-way valve and operating it manually. But then I am working blind. Pressing "power freeze" on the panel doesn't do it. I looked for jumpers on the main board, but there is nothing there. Finally, I know some Samsungs can control "options settings" which would allow me to control the step valve, but for my fridge, there is no such option.most units I have worked on set the Priority to freezer section first, may not be a ALWAYS This unit seems to rarely set the priority to freezer. I've only seen it a few times. But maybe the main board is damaged and also maybe it is trying to adapt to a fridge that won't cool as it expects, so the calculations it does are wrong. The system appears starved due to a leak. I related to you the Whirlpool Known problem they had. Their Known problem was the refrigerator Evap had a leak. They had a service bulletin out on it.You can have a leak any where as far as that goes. May be detectable with Dye test, but you have to put fittings on to get access to sealed system.visual inspection of lines may show discoloration on the evaporators, you may want to do a visual on the refrigerator evap. Will often look black like tarnish. This video was helpful, if mainly for the links. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNL-cQAQ5Oc I'm going to buy a piercing valve like that one on Amazon (because they will deliver it quickly). I'll look for leaks first, but it's not leaking so quickly that I am concerned yet. This UNIT may also BE under a MANUFACTURE WARRANTY for sealed system. How old is your unit?don't Tap or go into the sealed system until you find out about this warranty or you'll void it.My Whirlpool customer got it fixed for free. Nope. 5 year warranty. Naturally it started to fail at 5 years and 3 months. Of course I am pissed about this.There are what we call small, very small factory leaks that you really cant find. They may take three years to depleted the system. This is the most hopeful thing you've said, because I can work with this. If it's really such a small leak that it takes 5 years to fail, I am happy to just refill it every 4-5 years. I'm going to do a good look-over of the fridge side to look for any leaks, just so I know where they are if they are visible. There are many places on the outside around the compressor where I might suspect a leak - in fact EVERY brazed joint in the system looks like complete shit. There are also a few places where the copper tubing is oxidized and green, and has dripped green onto the drip pan at the bottom. But I think these are places where condensation has dripped onto the plumbing and it's just cosmetic. I felt all the ugly brazed joints and they are all covered with some clear plastic (?) sealant, but none of them feel oily or leave any residue on my fingers. So while they *look* like they might all leak, it seems likely none of them are leaking. I figure if there is a slow refrigerant leak, there is going to be a little oil, right? You'll need to know how to add refrigerant and do sealed system charge if you have no warranty Suggestions? Videos? I've re-filled my car in the past. I have a manifold and a pump if I need it. I have a licensed friend if I need anything fancier than the automotive 134a, but he only works with R122 typically.
This should be your manualhttp://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14844.0;attach=9041orhttps://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzIiBNwRIV4NQjFNa3hnbGxieHMfast trackhttps://drive.google.com/drive/search?q=fast%20track