E84 error code on Samsung NE599MPBSR range

[Matzie66]

Replaced oven relay board & display board but still get the E84 error code. Could problem be in the control panel(touchpad control)?

[dab147315]

Not sure this applies to your model, but take a look.

[Matzie66]

Replaced the inverter module. Range worked okay. Thanks for your help"""

[bn880]

For anyone else encountering this (it's coming up a lot as the ranges are older now), E84 is >95% of the time a failure of the right inverter board.  DG96-00216C in various models of the Samsung ranges  NE599, NE597, NE595 etc.  You can usually check by testing the fuse on the board.  Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work, and you don't want to use the same 25A fuse for a simple power on/OK test as you can further damage the board.
The boars are no longer sold, but you can get them serviced if you check on eBay etc.

[Matzie66]

Thanks for the reply. I myself haven,t seen the problem for a couple years now. Kinda stay
away from induction ranges.Found out on some one gets rid of an error code & to have another
show up.

[bn880]

Yeah, for sure some of them are a PITA especially if you follow the manual procedure/sequence to replace components instead of being told how to test for a bad component.  At least samsung and one or two other manufacturers had bulletins out to show you how to test a specific fuse or IGBT to determine for real which board(s) were bad.  It's pretty crazy that there is so little concrete info on them from manufacturers because it seems Induction is still here to stay despite the really short reliability lifespan of them currently.

[bn880]

Forgot to mention, another frequent reason for getting a subsequent error code on some appliances is the manufacturer sells an incompatible board    Often up to 4 boards need to be compatible with the same firmware revisions.  Samsung is actually not an issue in this regards as far as I have seen.

[Samsungdude]

For anyone else encountering this (it's coming up a lot as the ranges are older now), E84 is >95% of the time a failure of the right inverter board.  DG96-00216C in various models of the Samsung ranges  NE599, NE597, NE595 etc.  You can usually check by testing the fuse on the board.  Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work, and you don't want to use the same 25A

"Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work" but sometimes it does, right??

I paid 250$ for a fuse and it worked..

[bn880]

I have never personally seen a fuse fix the E-84 issue and I have fixed hundreds of the boards and assemblies.   I have only heard of people making such claims on two occasions (counting you) which I could not verify.  Lots of people try new fuses in the boards before they send them over for repair, and the fuses just blow up and at times there is just more board damage unfortunately.

As a matter of fact the last few days I have one customer claiming I only replaced a fuse on his board, and he paid around $250 with shipping.  I told him explicitly that I don't scam people to just replace a fuse for $250 but he doesn't believe me.     You can't help some ignorant people.

[bn880]

I wanted to share a warning to people who are thinking of just swapping fuses on their boards before a repair.

I just had a customer who followed some guide from Samsung which eventually said to put in another fuse.
So he installed a 25A labeled fuse, but a non-brand name one from China.   

I got the board in for repair yesterday, as obviously the fuse didn't fix anything.  After an hour+ of investigation the board is not repairable due to the extent of the damage from the fuse which didn't open successfully on time.

Here are pictures of such a fuse and how messed up the fuse area alone gets (attached).


Weld marks, expansion, deformation cracks.  Elsewhere on the board welding was going on comparable to a 300A inverter welder.

The fuse used not only was too large for a test at 25A , but also a fake non functioning knockoff.  Had the customer used a 10A brand name fuse for a power on test, the board would have been repairable.

If you do want to try a fuse, please use no more than a 10A BRAND NAME fuse that is listed in Canada/USA.
A 10A fuse is good for a test as it will even let you power on a burner or two on medium settings (5) before it blows, but if it does blow (which it will), it won't damage anything much more.

 A 25A fuse on the other hand is NO PLACE TO SAVE MONEY, at least buy a brand name one if you are stubborn and think you need one that large for a test.  You risk fire and injury with no name large amperage fuses. (it's like saving money on a defibrillator, seat belt or airbag)

Good luck.

[bn880]

Further to the above, here are some tips on buying safe cartridge fuses for testing or use in your range:

• Buy from a reputable reseller such as Mouser, Arrow, Digikey, Newark, or a REPUTABLE local electrical supply house.
• The price of a fuse will range from $2 to $50 per fuse for a real fuse.  You can not buy a genuine safe high amperage cartridge fuse for under $0.50 a piece new (Usually get suspicious under $2 and Extremely suspicious under $1).
• Look for Recognized Certification Marks on the fuse caps.  https://www.esasafe.com/electricalproducts/marks   A safe fuse MUST have at least one of these marks, let alone checking the details of the meaning of the certification. If a ceramic cartridge fuse of large amperage has no such marks, it is almost entirely guaranteed to be unsafe, and should not be imported to the US or Canada (it is not even legal to sell).
  I am attaching pictures of Recognized Certification Marks for components.
  

I am also attaching a reference picture of safe/proper fuse caps, the middle dark fuse is a BUSSMAN ABC 20A that can be purchased in Home Depot in the USA.