E84 error code on Samsung NE599MPBSR range

[Matzie66]

Replaced oven relay board & display board but still get the E84 error code. Could problem be in the control panel(touchpad control)?

[dab147315]

Not sure this applies to your model, but take a look.

[Matzie66]

Replaced the inverter module. Range worked okay. Thanks for your help"""

[bn880]

For anyone else encountering this (it's coming up a lot as the ranges are older now), E84 is >95% of the time a failure of the right inverter board.  DG96-00216C in various models of the Samsung ranges  NE599, NE597, NE595 etc.  You can usually check by testing the fuse on the board.  Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work, and you don't want to use the same 25A fuse for a simple power on/OK test as you can further damage the board.
The boars are no longer sold, but you can get them serviced if you check on eBay etc.

[Matzie66]

Thanks for the reply. I myself haven,t seen the problem for a couple years now. Kinda stay
away from induction ranges.Found out on some one gets rid of an error code & to have another
show up.

[bn880]

Yeah, for sure some of them are a PITA especially if you follow the manual procedure/sequence to replace components instead of being told how to test for a bad component.  At least samsung and one or two other manufacturers had bulletins out to show you how to test a specific fuse or IGBT to determine for real which board(s) were bad.  It's pretty crazy that there is so little concrete info on them from manufacturers because it seems Induction is still here to stay despite the really short reliability lifespan of them currently.

[bn880]

Forgot to mention, another frequent reason for getting a subsequent error code on some appliances is the manufacturer sells an incompatible board    Often up to 4 boards need to be compatible with the same firmware revisions.  Samsung is actually not an issue in this regards as far as I have seen.

[Samsungdude]

For anyone else encountering this (it's coming up a lot as the ranges are older now), E84 is >95% of the time a failure of the right inverter board.  DG96-00216C in various models of the Samsung ranges  NE599, NE597, NE595 etc.  You can usually check by testing the fuse on the board.  Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work, and you don't want to use the same 25A

"Replacing the fuse alone generally won't work" but sometimes it does, right??

I paid 250$ for a fuse and it worked..

[bn880]

I have never personally seen a fuse fix the E-84 issue and I have fixed hundreds of the boards and assemblies.   I have only heard of people making such claims on two occasions (counting you) which I could not verify.  Lots of people try new fuses in the boards before they send them over for repair, and the fuses just blow up and at times there is just more board damage unfortunately.

As a matter of fact the last few days I have one customer claiming I only replaced a fuse on his board, and he paid around $250 with shipping.  I told him explicitly that I don't scam people to just replace a fuse for $250 but he doesn't believe me.     You can't help some ignorant people.

[bn880]

I wanted to share a warning to people who are thinking of just swapping fuses on their boards before a repair.

I just had a customer who followed some guide from Samsung which eventually said to put in another fuse.
So he installed a 25A labeled fuse, but a non-brand name one from China.   

I got the board in for repair yesterday, as obviously the fuse didn't fix anything.  After an hour+ of investigation the board is not repairable due to the extent of the damage from the fuse which didn't open successfully on time.

Here are pictures of such a fuse and how messed up the fuse area alone gets (attached).


Weld marks, expansion, deformation cracks.  Elsewhere on the board welding was going on comparable to a 300A inverter welder.

The fuse used not only was too large for a test at 25A , but also a fake non functioning knockoff.  Had the customer used a 10A brand name fuse for a power on test, the board would have been repairable.

If you do want to try a fuse, please use no more than a 10A BRAND NAME fuse that is listed in Canada/USA.
A 10A fuse is good for a test as it will even let you power on a burner or two on medium settings (5) before it blows, but if it does blow (which it will), it won't damage anything much more.

 A 25A fuse on the other hand is NO PLACE TO SAVE MONEY, at least buy a brand name one if you are stubborn and think you need one that large for a test.  You risk fire and injury with no name large amperage fuses. (it's like saving money on a defibrillator, seat belt or airbag)

Good luck.

[bn880]

Further to the above, here are some tips on buying safe cartridge fuses for testing or use in your range:

• Buy from a reputable reseller such as Mouser, Arrow, Digikey, Newark, or a REPUTABLE local electrical supply house.
• The price of a fuse will range from $2 to $50 per fuse for a real fuse.  You can not buy a genuine safe high amperage cartridge fuse for under $0.50 a piece new (Usually get suspicious under $2 and Extremely suspicious under $1).
• Look for Recognized Certification Marks on the fuse caps.  https://www.esasafe.com/electricalproducts/marks   A safe fuse MUST have at least one of these marks, let alone checking the details of the meaning of the certification. If a ceramic cartridge fuse of large amperage has no such marks, it is almost entirely guaranteed to be unsafe, and should not be imported to the US or Canada (it is not even legal to sell).
  I am attaching pictures of Recognized Certification Marks for components.
  

I am also attaching a reference picture of safe/proper fuse caps, the middle dark fuse is a BUSSMAN ABC 20A that can be purchased in Home Depot in the USA.

[martinphoto]

Hi, I joined this forum to share my experience on how I fixed the E-84 on my Samsung Induction Stove.

Just like all of you, my Samsung Stove (NE599N1PBSR) suddenly gave in a big flash bang one morning. The very loud noise came from under the front right coil. The breaker in my home fuse box had been triggered off by the (what appeared to be) short circuit. When resetting the breaker, my stove displayed a flashing clock with a static E-84.
​
After calling Samsung, they forwarded me to a local repair shop in Montreal. I read the reviews on Google: it was either 5 stars or 1 star ratings. I knew the story of those 1 star ratings just too well from previous experiences with appliances suddenly dying on me: calling tech support, being forwarded to a certified repair shop, only to be told at the end of a visit that an estimate for the repair will be so astronomical, the repair guy will suggest to simply buy a new one - and thank you for paying a hundred something dollars for the visit.
​
In the past few years alone, I have repaired a few appliances that were deemed too expensive to repair by services I called whom ALL suggested I buy a new one instead of going with their services for repeir: a plasma TV (screen was green: a simple unplugging and re-plugging of a wire on an inside board magically "reset" the problem), my Bosch dishwasher (replaced the pump), my washing machine (replaced the water input valves that were leaking intermittently), my drying machine (tumbler parts were unscrewing themselves), and now my Samsung Stove with E-84. In every case, I was able to find a YOUTUBE video that shows how to disassemble the machine, and a solution on forums - just like it is the case here for the Samsung Stove.
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I'm saying NO to PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE!
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Most of us are afraid to open up the appliances. But seriously, there's no reason to. YouTube videos show us exactly how to do it.  Step by step. If you're smart and take also photos along the way, to trace your steps back when re-assembling the machine, then you'll be all covered.
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OK, back to the Samsung Stove.
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If you have this E-84 problem, here's how you fix it (like I did and many others did):

​0) HOW MUCH IT WILL COST:
$230 CAD (includes return shipping) + $15 initial shipping

1) CONTACT ROBERT IN OTTAWA.
EMAIL: bn880 [at] hotmail.com
or via his KIJIJI Ad: http://bit.ly/2ub43m6
or his Ebay Ad: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233247734649
Robert repairs the board that just fried in your stove. You'll need to pay him, send him your board (see step 2 below), and he'll ship it back.
​
2) OPEN YOUR STOVE TO GET THE BOARD OUT:
This is the part where you get your electric screw driver, and you dig inside your stove, and take photos along the way. You can use this video that will guide you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PAuP1stxkw&t=204s . For me it is not the exact same model, but the video was helpful enough to guide me in the right direction. It looks a lot more complicated than the process actually is.

​3) SHIP THE BOARD
Robert will help you identify which exact part he need. If I am not mistaking, it is always the right board located under the front right coil. That was the case for me.

​4) RE-ASSEMBLE THE STOVE
Finalize the repair once the board is back by re-assembling the stove. Yay, your stove is fixed!
​
​YOU: 1
​PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE: 0
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My experience with Robert quick and easy. He replied within hours to my email, and answered all my questions. He quickly did the repair and shipped it back . The whole process, from dissembling the stove, to getting the part back and re-assembling it took less than 5 days, and that includes both way shipping (I'm located in Montreal).
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Highly recommended.
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Cheers!
​
Martin