Author Topic: LG DLE2516W dryer taking too long to dry (Read 5013 times)

aben · « **on:** March 12, 2016, 07:00:03 AM »

LG DLE2516W dryer taking much longer to dry. Please provide me with a repair manual to run a diagnostic test to see if anything major is wron .g. I found out this dryer has a thermistor to control dryer drying temp instead of a bimetall thermostat as usual. Like I said it does heat but now takes much longer. Thanks

BryanS · « **Reply #1 on:** March 12, 2016, 07:05:52 AM »

You may want to verify your duct isn't clogged.

manden · « **Reply #2 on:** March 12, 2016, 07:47:41 AM »

Yes try the following before proceeding.

Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

The above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

aben · « **Reply #3 on:** March 17, 2016, 04:37:46 PM »

Checked vent connected & disconnected, lots of airflow. Warm air. Tested heating element with all three wires of the terminals. Three terminals on element top terminal to center terminal 23 ohms. Top terminal go bottom terminal 23 ohms. Center terminal to bottom terminal I get 43 ohms which I think should be 11 ohms. Please help me.

mz3own · « **Reply #4 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:23:20 PM »

so it's heating...
Is it drying better with the vent detached?
The next thing I would have checked was the temp coming out of the vent set to a timed dry on high heat.

aben · « **Reply #5 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:34:58 PM »

Drying the same. Opened up the dryer it's very clean. Good air flow at exterior of the house, the resistance test on the 3 terminals of the heating element. no continuity sound & very high resistance 43 ohms between terminal center& bottom(where blue & yellow wires go). I performed the test with the wires detached. As far as I know should be around 11 ohms & with continuity sound. I think part of the element is bad.

aben · « **Reply #6 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:38:50 PM »

On high heat & time dry the air is very hot air. Anyone has a repair manual for this unit. To confirm the resistance numbers should read?

mz3own · « **Reply #7 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:55:44 PM »

lg site has been down for weeks, sorry

aben · « **Reply #8 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:59:50 PM »

What's your thought about the resistance/continuity test? It strange to me not to get continuity tone between 2 & 3 terminal?

mz3own · « **Reply #9 on:** March 17, 2016, 07:10:53 PM »

I honestly think you have a venting issue. With the vent detached on a timed dry,high heat, you said it get's very hot.
Would need to get a temp reading of that air coming out to determine if you have an issue.
did you check to see if the element is grounded?

aben · « **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2016, 07:26:01 PM »

Element not grounded on neither of the 3 terminals. I tested it on timed dry/ high heat. But customer states they only use it on normal & delicate. They don't use time dry. I connected the vent duct & it has hot & good air flow at the exterior of the house on time dry/ high heat. I had customer start using time dry high heat for his future laundry loads to confirm it does fine on time dry/high heat. Until I research my suspicion on the partially bad heating element

aben · « **Reply #11 on:** March 20, 2016, 05:32:58 PM »

Still haven't fix this dryer. Please need help on properly testing this heating element of 3 terminals and the desired results if different to mine, thanks

aben · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2016, 08:55:37 PM »

What's your thought about the resistance/continuity test? It strange to me not to get continuity tone between 2 & 3 terminal?

dab147315 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2016, 09:42:17 PM »

Found you a service manual. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-i5KqMA2RZwNHVIWDN5RWljVHM/view?usp=sharing

manden · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2016, 07:43:10 AM »

I think I am either missing something or the manual is wrong.

I think Pin 1 is the common of the heater.
In Test 6 in the manual it says that
Pin 1 to 2 should be ~20 ohms (so that is one heating coil)
Pin 1 to 3 should be ~20 ohms (so that is the other heating coil)
Pin 2 to 3 should be ~10 ohms (this does not make sense to me as you are measuring the coils is series not parallel so it should be ~ 40 ohms)

I think your heater measurements are OK.

On Page 15 they say each coil should be ~10 ohms.
This also does not make sense to me because when you turn both coils on you have an effective resistance of 5 ohms and that would draw about 48 amps which is way too high for a dryer.

dab147315 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2016, 08:08:31 AM »

Yeah i saw that too and wonder that to, because i look up his model at the lg site and also came up with this.They change that site and wonder even if this was right.So here the attachment. And also saw the two different heater readings in the manual.

aben · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2016, 10:48:01 AM »

Unless there's a additional small heat elemt from terminal 2 to 3 which should be 9-11 ohms. Of which I get 43 ohms & no continuity beep sound on my digital multimeter

dab147315 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 23, 2016, 04:28:10 PM »

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