Author Topic: Whirlpool WTW5500XW flashing lid lock (Read 5630 times)

yapper · « **on:** October 25, 2015, 09:32:57 PM »

After the flashing lid lock occurs (usually right at the beginning of the cycle) I can get the washer to run a Normal cycle by:

Unplugging washer for 10 seconds or so
Plugging it back in
Wait for lid lock to release
Open lid and rotate drum slightly
Close lid
Start cycle again (and it then runs to completion)

The only fault code is F1/E2 'Motor Control Fault'. I've changed the actuator and the same problem persists. All manual tests work as expected. Calibration runs for about 10-15 seconds then everything shuts off with a loud click, with Lid lock flashing. I've cleared the faults and F1/E2 comes back. I've checked and tightened the pulley nut.

What can I try next? Washer is just over 5 years old and very clean.

andyf80 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 25, 2015, 10:11:02 PM »

Hi Yapper,
Welcome.
Sorry to hear about the issues with the washer.

The times I've come across this it's been one of two things.

The errors you are getting point towards either a bad motor control unit board or a bad connection between the two boards.

I will usually start with removing the board, opening the housing so that I can look at the back side of the control board. These boards usually fail in a fairly spectacular fashion and a burned spot will be quite evident most times.

It takes me less time to figure this peice out than to track down the poor connection. If the board looks good, reassemble and remove the top of the machine.

The connector from the motor control and the main board is a 2 or 3 wire plug with blue wires. You will remove this and with a small dental pick (or similar tool) respring / push the connectors closer together to make a tighter connection on the main board when plugged in.

I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have questions.

dab147315 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 25, 2015, 10:27:06 PM »

Andy i think your thinking this is front load washer,but this is a VMW washer.

andyf80 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 25, 2015, 10:35:49 PM »

Oops! You're right. My apologies.

dab147315 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 25, 2015, 10:40:40 PM »

I had a lot of Oops in my time.

Do TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor Page 14 and 15 in the tech.Sheet. Test Capacitor.Follow Tech sheet.

andyf80 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 25, 2015, 10:52:09 PM »

Isn't it funny how one tends to remember the oops moments that cost them money?

So Yapper,
In the document that Dab kindly attached - look at page 14 test 3b.
You'll need to test the motor windings for continuity. If the motor & capacitor test good, it looks like a new main control would be in order.

yapper · « **Reply #6 on:** October 26, 2015, 09:03:23 AM »

Thanks for the feedback. The test sheet has given me another clue - it mentions humming being related to the Run Capacitor. This is what I hear when it fails (although as I mentioned before the manual tests all run fine including spin and agitate at both speeds).

dab147315 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 26, 2015, 09:13:07 AM »

Still check the capacitor for proper microfarad with a meter.Also these machines are known for broken wires down there or almost broken wires.

bud · « **Reply #8 on:** October 26, 2015, 01:20:29 PM »

I haven't worked with alot of these washers but if my memory serves me correctly, don't forget the shift actuator W10006355. I went through all the motor tests and they all checked OK. Step 16 says replace control board. At a WP training, the trainer said keep a shifter in your tool box, they are the new "coupling". I tried the actuator and it solved the problem. Even after the old one tested good.

Where this machine will run after rotating the basket, I would take a long look at the shift actuator. It's also a motion sensor.

andyf80 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 26, 2015, 01:33:13 PM »

Hey Bud,
He states that he's swapped the actuator already...which is Always a good place to start! I keep 3 on my truck. It hasn't happened yet that I need 3 in a day, but 2 for sure. : )

bud · « **Reply #10 on:** October 26, 2015, 05:26:23 PM »

reading too fast

andyf80 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 26, 2015, 05:29:24 PM »

You're in good company.

yapper · « **Reply #12 on:** October 27, 2015, 09:14:53 AM »

Thanks for all the hints. I'll have a good look around for worn/damaged cables as well as check out the cap and reseat the connectors.

dab147315 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 12, 2015, 08:35:05 AM »

Quote from: yapper on October 25, 2015, 09:32:57 PM

After the flashing lid lock occurs (usually right at the beginning of the cycle) I can get the washer to run a Normal cycle by:
Unplugging washer for 10 seconds or so
Plugging it back in
Wait for lid lock to release
Open lid and rotate drum slightly
Close lid
Start cycle again (and it then runs to completion)
The only fault code is F1/E2 'Motor Control Fault'. I've changed the actuator and the same problem persists. All manual tests work as expected. Calibration runs for about 10-15 seconds then everything shuts off with a loud click, with Lid lock flashing. I've cleared the faults and F1/E2 comes back. I've checked and tightened the pulley nut.

What can I try next? Washer is just over 5 years old and very clean.

Do you have a update on this washer?

yapper · « **Reply #14 on:** November 12, 2015, 11:19:03 AM »

I didn't find anything obvious and she continued using it with the occasional spin of the drum to get past the lid lock flashing. A couple of days ago it was running and started making a loud noise as if cogs were slipping so I suspect the splutch will need replacing. I'll update when I get to look at the current splutch.

yapper · « **Reply #15 on:** November 14, 2015, 11:51:29 AM »

Well the splutch looks fine. Checked all the connector on the control panel were seated properly and ran the manual tests. Now it fails on spin - just hums and lid lock flashes. Measured the motor windings (6.5 ohm as expected) and checked the run capacitor (not shorted or open) which leads me to suspect the main board. Given that this washer is over 5 years old and has a reputation as a piece of junk, I'm ready to kick it to the kerb, unless someone has any (low cost) ideas to fix it?

Just tested it again and now spin works - still fails on Calibration though.

Can anyone recommend a reliable washer as replacement? She's not bothered about fancy features. LG WT1101CW is one she liked the look of

dab147315 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 14, 2015, 12:54:23 PM »

Best washer but not cheap. http://www.speedqueen.com/products/top-load-washers.aspx#build-your-own?mn=AWN432SP113TW01 This model has no computers. http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/AWN432SP113TW04.html

dab147315 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 14, 2015, 03:24:38 PM »

I don't know if i would go with a LG top loader but would go for a LG front loader.Maybe some of are LG and Samsung guys can voice there opinion and a model.

If you don't like that SpeedQueen.

mz3own · « **Reply #18 on:** November 14, 2015, 08:12:20 PM »

Quote from: yapper on November 14, 2015, 11:51:29 AM

Can anyone recommend a reliable washer as replacement? She's not bothered about fancy features. LG WT1101CW is one she liked the look of

the 1100 ser has had issues with UE codes. Depending on serial number version. Board upgrades/programing and stator/rotor replacement are also issues.

yapper · « **Reply #19 on:** November 22, 2015, 10:45:12 AM »

She bought the LG WT1101CW - we'll see how it goes!

Thanks for all the advise and feedback.

Edit: I just noticed the last three digits of the serial number. Hope it's not an omen LOL

509PNXL4M666

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Author Topic: Whirlpool WTW5500XW flashing lid lock (Read 5630 times)