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Author Topic: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?  (Read 3360 times)

Offline billk

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Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« on: June 13, 2015, 06:25:55 PM »

Hey guys,
 I am trying to find a diagram that shows which switches go to which wire on the ribbon cable on a KitchenAid KUDS25SHWH1 dishwasher.  I have a blinking "Child Lock" light which indicates a stuck switch.  I don't know if I can get it to unstick, but I am sure going to try :)   Just don't want to waste a lot of time messing with all of them. 

Thanks in advance !
Bill

Offline dab147315

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2015, 07:00:12 PM »
Have you tried holding energy saver dry for 4 seconds like it says in manual?

Offline billk

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2015, 07:39:22 PM »
Have you tried holding energy saver dry for 4 seconds like it says in manual?

Of course, that was the first thing we did.  However, the light is not on solid, it is flashing.

Once I dug out the service information that came with the dishwasher I found that when that light is flashing it indicates that one of the touch switches is "stuck" closed.  So I want to try to isolate the switch and having a wiring diagram would make it a lot easier.

Bill K

Offline mz3own

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2015, 09:02:52 PM »
hope it helps
« Last Edit: June 13, 2015, 09:04:09 PM by mz3own »

Offline dab147315

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2015, 09:22:25 PM »
You are going to need a new touch pad.

Offline AJ

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #5 on: June 14, 2015, 09:59:22 AM »
You are going to need a new touch pad.

Looks like your model dishwasher takes touch pad part # 9744112
Expensive and NLA (No Longer Available) from some, but RepairClinic.com currently has them in stock.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Touchpad-And-Control-Panel/W10757838/3452788?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=9744112

Offline billk

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2015, 01:47:48 PM »
Looks like your model dishwasher takes touch pad part # 9744112

AJ,
   Actually mine uses the 9744113 which is White. The 112 is black which would look pretty horrible on the white dishwasher with very light colored cabinets.  And as much as I am usually one for trying to fix everything instead of junking it, I really have to rethink the wisdom of spending $275 on a 15 year old dishwasher and even then not getting the right color part :(   

  I am going to fool with it a little more. Last night I took the panel off and tried to ohm the ribbon cable to try and see if I can figure out which switch is sticking but without a wiring diagram of the panel, its pretty much impossible to do.  The tech sheet does not show the detailed wiring of the panel itself.

 After I put it back together last night  the light actually went out and we ran one load through it but this morning the light was back to blinking :(  I am figuring it is an intermittent connection and anyone that works with electronics knows how difficult that can be to troubleshoot :(   If I do find a fix other than a new panel, I will be certain to post it here.

Offline AlexP

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #7 on: April 06, 2018, 11:57:46 PM »
I am having the same issue. The problem seems to be with the control panel's ribbon cable at the (14+3)-pin connector.

Offline mon2

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2019, 05:58:30 AM »
Hi. Stuck in exactly the same boat with our Kitchenaid. Our child lock does not turn off. The original p/n 9744112 is now replaced with W10757838. Either way, it is a rare bird here in Canada and not inexpensive. Amre wants a few weeks to source the panel. Around a $300-$400 repair  >:(

We run an electronics design engineering company so will try to at least make an attempt to fix at the component level.

Could this child lock status be stored inside a non-volatile memory? Turned off the circuit breaker overnight and the unit still retained the child lock ON value this morning - demonic!! One Youtube video showed that the flex ribbon cable was getting too much heat from the dryer unit and causing failures on the keypad. Fairly sure the issue is linked to the single push button for the Energy Save feature which enables / disables the CHILD LOCK.

Guessing at this time that the tact / dome switch is defective (Power Saver). Also saw a mix of front panels only that are more in line on costs but does this include the push button pads?

Gathering a new dishwasher will be more wise given the age of our 13-15 year old unit but the reviews of a mix of new models is nasty. Then there is the installation and removal fees and potential issues.

This Kitchenaid Superba unit has been excellent other than this current issue.

Will post back if successful.  More later..

Offline Bearcat

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2019, 01:40:46 AM »
If you are adventurous, and it sounds like at least one of you are.  You might try this.  Try cutting wires to the UI one at a time, and putting each back together with wire nuts if it doesnít solve the problem.  You will probably have to try them all.  Some wires go to more than one button.  The best end result will be that a couple of the buttons will not work anymore, but the dishwasher will on other selections.  If you try this, please report back, so I know how it worked out for you.  I have done it on a couple, and then on some, the stuck button was also hooked to the start button, so it didnít work out.

Bearcat

Offline mon2

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Re: Need KitchenAid control console wiring diagram ?
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2019, 07:07:20 AM »
Thank you so much for your time to post on suggestions. Here is an update on this troubleshooting effort:

1) With some trouble, got the front control panel removed. Never as easy (for us) as they show in the youtube videos. Only the top (Qty 4) T15 screws are required to be removed but the plastic posts and the slots on the front cover are in real nice and tight. Anyways, my 2 top posts snapped off so now I knew I was in deep to replace this panel but kept going.

2) After the front cover was removed, you can see the multiconductor green flex ribbon cable mating with the control board (single sided PCB with through hole jumper wires). The cable looked new without any heat burn marks from the heater in the unit. Also mating solid with the controller board on the door. Low and behold you will see at the bottom right of the large (40 pin?) through hole (PDIP) microcontroller by Motorola which is house marked - a 8 pin PDIP (through hole) I2C memory EEprom IC. This is p/n 2401 and is very common and under $1 USD in single piece qty. Free shipping these days from Arrow Electronics.

It is THIS non-volatile memory IC that is holding the status of the CHILD LOCK ON / OFF. This also explains why the dishwasher is able to retain the last setting even with the POWER OFF. We killed the dishwasher circuit breaker overnight with hopes we could reset the CHILD LOCK flag. No such luck.

3) Next, attempted to "fix" the keypad which we found out quickly is only about 1 mm thick. That is the black front overlay + dome switch push buttons are glued together (like parts from MKS in Taiwan, etc.) and is a membrane type of a front panel. It is hopeless to fix one of these. Kind of sad that the duty cycle of the dishwasher use was perhaps every other day for the past 12 years (yeah I guess it is relatively old but a nice unit to date). Anyways, for sure our next unit will not have moving control panel parts but rather a capacitive touch panel (no mechanical pushbuttons to wear out). Would have thought that such control panels can last longer than they have.

So, how this works (from observation) is that the front control panel is a multiplexed passive unit of parts with LEDs and dome switches that has simply worn out and supplying false values back to the controller board. When it was working correctly, the control panel was being scanned for a keypress (and debounced to detect the single button press) by the Motorola CPU (6802?) and the status was stored (in case of a power failure) inside the 2401 EEprom. We have all the tools to monitor the bus traffic on this I2C EEprom but to "hack" the protocol would easily consume another estimated 3 hours along with having my wife pacing back and forth while wearing out the tiled floor in anticipation of a working dishwasher. Using Beagle / Aardvark I2C bus tools, it is very possible to monitor the I2C_SDA, I2C_SCL (with a common ground) to review WHICH BIT or WHICH BYTE is changed during the CHILD LOCK ON / OFF configuration. This is the high level idea.

Plan A was to fix the keypad which is impossible. Maybe someone sells the plastic black replacement panel (only) for the Superba series?

Plan B was to make a copy of the current EEprom and then monitor the bus traffic with hopes to isolate which bit / byte inside the 2401 memory device is responsible for this CHILD LOCK setting. Do not believe there are any serial numbers from Kitchenaid inside the controller board since you can swap out with another. Doubt there is a CRC (mathematical operation) check to see if the EEprom has been tampered with but that is only a guess. This is the reason to make a copy of the EEprom.

In theory, once this is known, using a few dollars of parts, an external I2C bus master circuit could RESET the CHILD LOCK setting using the controller board approach. Also, could just replace the controller board which would be fresh with this setting reset. For us, we do not need the CHILD LOCK but in theory, after the EEprom is reset, as long as no other keypress is at fault, the unit could be fixed. If there is a demand, we can build such a tool (wife permission pending). Basically the idea here is a clip on portable tool to clamp onto the 8 pin memory device -> press a button and reset the CHILD LOCK value. In theory, that is the concept.

But, after much review and with regret, my staff just preached to pay the long dollar and replace the front panel if we love this unit so much. Not to sound dated BUT they just do not buld these units like they used to so for now, want this old puppy working. Moving forward, will have to consider to invest $1k-$2k into a solid replacement. So many models but the failures posted on websites are depressing to hear on units that are 1-2 years old. As an engineer, why? Greed? Make a unit that is solid and clients will line up to buy your product with pride. End of this preaching...

Ordered the replacement from Repairclinic.com in Canton, MI on Friday (our cross border neighbours). Should be here Monday or Tuesday. Chose them because they claim to offer a 1 year refund policy for any reason, they DO ship to Canada (99% of the folks we contacted did not have the control panel or would not ship to Canada). Our local supplier wanted a special 2-3 week lead time to order AND "we own" the panel if the plastic wrap was removed. Very confident the control panel replacement will fix this unit but either way, will post back next week after this trial.

If this unit can be repaired with the above new panel and service us for another year, will be pleased.

Bye for now !!  ;D
« Last Edit: March 16, 2019, 07:09:24 AM by mon2 »