I didn't see a board area for water heaters. I hope I am posting this to the right place.
Kenmore Power Miser 12 gas water heater
Link to Owner's Manual "http://download.sears.com/own/33144e.pdf
I know water heaters don't fail very quickly but it seems these Kenmore water heaters fail a lot based upon my internet search for a remedy.
I have had this water heater from Sears since Jan. 1, 2006. I figured this being a 12 year water heater that it would be covered under warranty.
Last year I had an issue where the plastic drain valve cracked from drying out from the heat of the tank. It had hairline cracks in it where it started to drip and one day it was just spraying out from it. I called Sears and they wanted to charge me $79 to diagnose the problem and they tried to sell me an extended warranty for $200 and if they couldn't fix it..... it would be replaced. If they could fix it, I would be charged labor being it is not covered. Plus they couldn't come out right away and I would have to wait a week.
I ended up reaming that plastic drain valve spigot out myself and replaced it with a ball valve which drains faster than those plastic ones that fail from drying out. It cost me around $20 for all the parts to have a better efficient valve for clearing sediment build up.Ok..... here is my issue now and I hope somebody could help me out.
My pilot light doesn't stay lit.
- I set the dial and push down top knob and light the pilot (I hold down the knob for 1-2 minutes to charge thermocouple) the pilot light looks healthy while button knob is pushed down.
- I release the button to turn knob to "on" position and it doesn't stay lit
- I think it's the thermocouple so I test it with volt meter and held down button pilot flame. It reads 30 millivolts DC after 1 minute. (Therefore I believe it is working fine)
- I wipe down the fitting and end of the thermocouple in case it is a dirty and reinstalled knowing that it is working fine.
- I check and clean the filters at the base of the water heater just in case they are clogged
- I go to try it again and FAIL!..... Same issue.
I was thinking maybe the whole control valve is failed in the area where the pilot assembly is that gets the voltage to allow gas entry.
I was thinking maybe it would be better to just buy a whole new one of a different make being this one is like a lemon. I was thinking that putting in the money for a control valve to have it fail somewhere else within the next years would not be worth it. They say it should last for 12 years and we are at 8 years now. Any help or advice would be appreciated.