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Author Topic: Transcribed Video: GE Electronic Refrigerator Defrost Problem  (Read 1174 times)

Offline AJ

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Transcribed Video: GE Electronic Refrigerator Defrost Problem
« on: November 02, 2014, 10:10:43 PM »

GE Electronic Refrigerator Defrost Problem



0:05

Hi this is Shawn from http://www.appliance-repair-it.com

Today we are going to talk about how to diagnosis a G.E. electronic refrigerator with a defrost problem.

0:17

First you must determine if you have a defrost problem or not. If there is a defrost problem the refrigerator will not cool properly. The fresh food section will be warm and the freezer section will be off a little. 

0:37

Remove the back wall of the refrigerator and look at the coils. If they look like this you have a defrost problem.

0:49

There are four things that will cause these refrigerators not to defrost properly.

0:58

The main board. The defrost heater. The defrost thermostat and the evaporator thermistor.

1:08

First unplug the refrigerator and locate the main board on the back of the refrigerator.

1:21

Locate the blue plug at the bottom of the board and disconnect it.

1:27

Then located the white plug just right beside it and unplug it.

1:33

Now, place one lead of your ohm meter in the center plug of the blue connector.

1:42

On the board it should be marked defrost or J9.

1:48

Now, take your other lead and place it on the pin farthest left on the orange/white wire. You should get continuity. In this case I get 21 ohms.

2:05

I got roughly 21 ohms. If it is open you know that the defrost heater or the defrost thermostat is bad.

2:20

Nine times out of ten it's going to be the heater.

2:23

If your heater and thermostat check ok next check your evaporator thermistor.

2:33

Locate the J1 connector on the main board and unplug it.

2:43

Now your ready for testing on the main board. Set your meter to read 16 thousand ohms.

2:56

I'm setting mine on 20K. Now, on the J1 plug that we already disconnected place your black lead in the fifth wire.

3:15

and your read lead on the fourth wire.

3:35

You should get 16.3 K ohms, plus or minus 5%.

3:43

Please note that this test must be done before you melt the ice on the coils.

3:48

If not you will not get the 16.3 K ohms as described.

3:54

If on the very first test we did you got open or very high resistance you will need to know if the heater of the thermostat is bad.

4:06

Melt the ice on the coils.

4:10

Remove the heater from the bottom of the coils and unplug it.

4:18

Now, test for continuity across the heater by placing one lead on one terminal and the other lead on the other terminal.

4:40

I get roughly 21 ohms, the same as the first test.

4:44

If you heater checks out ok, but you had a open circuit when you tested at the main board you know that the defrost thermostat is bad, replace it.

4:57

This is defrost thermostat. If you did not get continuity in the very first test, but the heater checks ok replace the defrost thermostat.

5:15

Please note that there is no need to check the thermistor if the heater and the thermostat are open.

5:26

If they are open you know that they are bad and most likely cause the problem.

5:31

Skip to the last test to see if the heater or the thermostat is the problem.

5:37

Note that if the heater, thermostat and thermistor all check out ok replace the main board.








 

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