Author Topic: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power (Read 11177 times)

76comet · « **on:** October 20, 2014, 03:06:22 PM »

hello this is my first post I searched for this model and nothing came up. I have good power at the plug and I checked the thermal fuses. I can not get any lights or noise. checked the power going to the SUB PCB it has 53v DC is that to much? I need a manual if anyone has one. Thank you!

rockinrobin · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2014, 05:32:16 PM »

Here's the Tech Sheet to help with troubleshooting your issue
http://www.pcrichard.com/images/promos/DV407%20Fast%20track%20R6.pdf

Maybe someone else will have the Service Repair Manual!

76comet · « **Reply #2 on:** October 21, 2014, 06:25:51 PM »

Thanks that helps! I just wish they would tell me what the power should be going to the Sub pcb.

76comet · « **Reply #3 on:** October 21, 2014, 06:59:15 PM »

I just ordered both boards I'll try the main pcb first and check the power coming out of it, then post my findings on here for everyone else. if I remember to that is. Boards will be here in a week or two

rockinrobin · « **Reply #4 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:13:59 PM »

Quote from: 76comet on October 21, 2014, 06:25:51 PM

Thanks that helps! I just wish they would tell me what the power should be going to the Sub pcb.

You should be getting 120 AC Voltage on CN1 (Brown & White Wires and/or Brown & Yellow Wires) of Main PCB which sends power to Sub PCB (see page 4 of Tech Sheet): You may need to press the power button to test/verify voltage on either set of wires.
Unplug dryer and verify Ohm's on Thermistor CN2 (Blue & Red Wires) of Main PCB: Must set Multimeter to 20k Ohm's and remove CN2 wire harness from Main PCB to verify ohm's.
Unplug dryer then remove wires from Door Switch to verify continuity/ohm's between COM & NO and COM & NC (if no continuity on either set of terminal pin's then press door switch to check again - see page 5 of Tech Sheet): Must set meter to lowest Ohm setting to test terminal pin's on Door Switch.
Also, see if your getting power to the Door Switch on either COM & NC or COM & NO (power shuts off when door is open on one set of wires).
Look for any burnt marks on both Boards (either near the connector or on the wire harness).

domain · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:36:28 PM »

Not too interject but if you have 240 with correct polarity@hookup it's going to be a pcb issue. No reason to check door switch and thermistor as that should not interrupt powering on

76comet · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:43:48 PM »

I also would think that I should have at least some kind of lights on even with the door open

domain · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:53:48 PM »

No way you have correct line voltage at hookup and no drum light

76comet · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:55:04 PM »

I also was looking at other manuals for Samsung dryers and they said I should have 12v at sub pcb. But that was for another similar model

domain · « **Reply #9 on:** October 21, 2014, 10:57:54 PM »

Dv337 should be close to yours. L1 black supplies light and main. I wonder if you lost neutral

76comet · « **Reply #10 on:** October 21, 2014, 11:01:50 PM »

Just checked I don't see any light inside

domain · « **Reply #11 on:** October 21, 2014, 11:03:54 PM »

Your post is confusing. Your bulb is blown. You have a pcb issue. Let us know which one. I bet main

76comet · « **Reply #12 on:** October 21, 2014, 11:09:00 PM »

I thought you were asking me if I had light in the drum, and I don't. I do have 120v on both black and red wires on the main cord. And that is with the negative meter probe on the white wire. Is there a better way to test neutral?

rockinrobin · « **Reply #13 on:** October 21, 2014, 11:26:40 PM »

Service Repair Manual at link below (see Page 6 #1 Won't Start or Run).
The Lamp should read between 80-100 Ohm's (see Page 8 of Service Manual).
http://www.rosehillauction.ca/manuals/Samsung_cloths_dryer_DV448AAPTECH..pdf

rockinrobin · « **Reply #14 on:** October 21, 2014, 11:31:45 PM »

Quote from: 76comet on October 21, 2014, 11:09:00 PM

I thought you were asking me if I had light in the drum, and I don't. I do have 120v on both black and red wires on the main cord. And that is with the negative meter probe on the white wire. Is there a better way to test neutral?

You should have 220v/240v AC between Black & Red Wires on Power Cord connected to back of dryer.
Red (Hot) & White (Neutral) is 120v AC and Black (Hot) & White (Neutral) is 120v AC.
If not, then unplug dryer and go to your main breaker box (outside of house by your meter) and flip the 30A switch On/Off 3 times then plug in dryer and see if it works.

76comet · « **Reply #15 on:** October 22, 2014, 07:58:55 AM »

Yeah that's how I tested it everything is good there

domain · « **Reply #16 on:** October 22, 2014, 08:24:44 AM »

He has a pcb issue as well as a blown bulb. His first post says no lights. His bulb has been blown for a while

76comet · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2014, 09:44:01 AM »

I don't think I have a light at all in the drum. I may be wrong. I'm at work now

76comet · « **Reply #18 on:** October 22, 2014, 09:45:15 AM »

Rockinrobin thank you for the manual your awesome!

76comet · « **Reply #19 on:** October 22, 2014, 12:33:26 PM »

Ok Just thought of something while looking at the manual. I have a 3 wire plug for the dryer. Do I need a 4 wire plug? Manual had both listed but just wanted to ask you all if you have had problems with three prong plugs causing pcb failures due to not having the extra ground in the wall?

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Author Topic: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power (Read 11177 times)