Author Topic: Different maytag washer problem (Read 15225 times)

JWWebster · « **on:** July 11, 2008, 04:13:54 PM »

A feller brought me a washer today. The motor runs and the washer pumps but it wont agitate or spin. I carefully laid the washer on the side and took a look at the belts. They seem fine so I took them off. The pump turns ok but here is the weird part the main drive pulley and the transmission shaft just came right on out. What do yall think caused it and what can be done to fix it?

Model A382

Repair-man · « **Reply #1 on:** July 11, 2008, 06:52:47 PM »

There's a brass retaining pin inside the transmission cover that is broken or missing. Pop that flat cover off the tranny and see where the shaft connects to the orbital gears. You'll need a new tranny, but you can have fun tearing this one up.

JWWebster · « **Reply #2 on:** July 11, 2008, 06:57:50 PM »

RM it ain't that kind of tranny in there. This un has the flat original tranny.

Repair-man · « **Reply #3 on:** July 11, 2008, 07:02:53 PM »

Why didn't ya say so, JW?? The A382 had BOTH the orbital and the helical tranny installed, depending on series. Here's what yours looks like, and by the way, ify you order a new one, they'll switch you over to the orbital version with a different agitator.

JWWebster · « **Reply #4 on:** July 11, 2008, 08:46:55 PM »

Does it need a new tranny then?

Repair-man · « **Reply #5 on:** July 11, 2008, 09:26:29 PM »

Quote

Does it need a new tranny then?

Only if you want it to work. If you're going to rebuild it, plan on a new tub bearing and boot seal as well.

JWWebster · « **Reply #6 on:** July 11, 2008, 09:52:09 PM »

Ok my buddy Robert has one of these machine, he gonna brang tomorrow(probabwy at da bwake of dawn). We gonna make one good machine outta 2 bad machine: Stay tune

Repair-man · « **Reply #7 on:** July 12, 2008, 08:11:23 AM »

So you'll take 2 antiques and mix and match them until you get something that runs?

JW, you might well put the retail sector out of business at that rate

BrntToast · « **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2008, 08:28:59 PM »

2 things to watch for when you rebuild that tranny

#10 is a taper pin, make sure you hammer on the right end to remove it if you have to change that top gear ever

#12 gear is labeled "this side up" you will know if you ever put one in backwards cause the tranny hammers soon as you start it up

other than that those trannys are easy to rebuild

JWWebster · « **Reply #9 on:** July 14, 2008, 10:22:38 PM »

Well I took the top off of the washer with the bad tranny and mingled it into the cabinet of the new style washer and it washed beautiful but the motor is smokin after 3 minutes when it try to pump and spin. Give me some advice People?

JWWebster · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2008, 10:41:47 PM »

MY buddy robert has another washer he bringing tomorrow
We gonna try and make 1 good un outta 3 bad uns.

JWWebster · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2008, 08:23:58 AM »

Repairman is their an adjustment on the brake package? This one screws on and has a locking tab. It has the orbital tranny on it. The motor is having a terrible time turning the tub. It washes great but when it goes to spin it drags down and smokes.

Repair-man · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2008, 10:47:14 AM »

The brake release is controlled by the little retainer tab that holds the lower drive pulley on. With the retainer removed, the correct way to set the brake adjustment is to NOT LAY THE WASHER DOWN. Whoever does this adjustment must be able to lay in front of the machine as it is reclined back against the wall.

1. Remove the little screw on the adjuster and remove the adjuster tab.
2. Rotate the drive pulley clockwise until it just touches the brake enough to release the tub. You'll feel a tiny amount of tension when the pulley hits this point, so stop and insert the stop tab back onto the end of the shaft and secure it with the screw.

When installing a tranny like this, if you laid the machine over, it must be stood up with the tranny bolts unloosened 3 turns to align everything and keep it from binding. Then tighten the bolts. If the tub is hard to turn it is not likely a brake issue. Remember that there is also a radial bearing on top of the lower pulley which must be properly in place and turning for the brake to work.

JWWebster · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2008, 01:00:18 PM »

The idea by turning the pulley it to get it to the release point and if I go too far then the tub will be too loose right?

Repair-man · « **Reply #14 on:** July 15, 2008, 01:10:48 PM »

Yes, plus it causes spin problems if the retainer tab is not positioned properly. Remember that there is a spin bearing pressed into the top of the brake assembly, and this must be free and spin easily.

JWWebster · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2008, 02:19:38 PM »

the tub turns good by hand but the motor smokes and I put a differnet motor. These 2 old antiques are scrap bound.

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