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Author Topic: VMW washers  (Read 14262 times)

Offline Kilbey

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #60 on: March 16, 2020, 10:14:47 PM »

Sorry, I see the detailed post at the top of the page now. Had not been able to navigate to this page before due to being new.

Offline jeff5may

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #61 on: August 30, 2020, 01:09:07 AM »
Ok so I have developed a somewhat straight forward process for doing this job quickly.

Get the thing out of the washer

Drill out the spot rivets with a 3/16 or larger drill bit

Take off the pulley, splutch assembly and the spring washer for the input shaft

Separate the bottom half of the gearcase

Pound out the bottom bearing with a piece of 1-1/4 inch steel pipe
Put the top half and rotating shaft assembly on a 5 gallon bucket with a cushion in it

Pound out the top bearing the same way as bottom bearing. Cushion will save the plastic gearbox when it falls out

Spray the seal hat and top bearing with your favorite penetrating oil. Use the bottom bearing previously removed as a guide to clean the rusty splines and shaft. Sand, scrape, file or otherwise remove rusty flaky nastiness, until the bearing will slide on the top and travel down the shaft to the hat

« Last Edit: August 30, 2020, 01:11:32 AM by jeff5may »

Offline jeff5may

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #62 on: August 30, 2020, 08:03:11 AM »
Measure the location of the pressed on parts on the shaft and then slide them off the shaft. Effort required depends on how badly they're rusted in place.

The jury is out on whether to seat the top bearing in the case before or after the hat and bearing are located on the shaft. Either way, it's got to be square to the surface and far enough into the race. Cleanliness helps a lot.

Install new bottom bearing into the bottom case half and test fit with a few screws. Make sure the rotating assembly spins freely and quietly without vertical slack between halves. Adjust position of top bearing and hat accordingly.

When satisfied with fitup, install the rpm sensor wheel before screwing the halves together. Grease the hat and seal, then install the seal. Install the spring washer into its groove on the bottom

Tada! Hard part finished


Offline Thorning

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #63 on: September 02, 2020, 06:44:40 PM »
I was just given a  Maytag MVW 7230HW0 with s/n CX0470361 for possible repair. It is very clean and looks to be in very nice conditiion mechnically but  not sure.  The previous person told me it would power up but would not allow water to come in  no matter what he did in terms of the control inputs so he gave up. Is there a troubleshooting  manual or do these units have a problem with circuit boards ? Any help as to where to start on this unit would be appreciated.

Offline Blaiser

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #64 on: September 02, 2020, 07:14:05 PM »
Unplug the washer remove the console and put a test cord on each leg of the valves individually to determine whether the valve solenoid(s) are good and open up when you plug test cord into the wall with the ends connected to solenoid valves. Make sure each valve opens and closes when you put 120V on each solenoid from test cord. (they should open when you apply 120V and close when you remove the power from wall).


After that plug machine back in put all wires back on solenoid then take your multimeter and place it on AC Volts. Start a load make sure the wall water valves are open - then pull each pair of solenoid valve wires off and put your multi meter probes on each pair of solenoid wires and see if you get 120V on the wires going to your valves separately! Make sure you start with Cold Water Valves and make sure your washer is set on Cold Water Temperature and start a load of wash on COLD temperature setting. If you don't get 120V through the wires to the valves your probably have a Board that is Bad.


Offline Thorning

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #65 on: September 02, 2020, 07:35:14 PM »
I dont have hot water plumbed into my garage so I test a washer using cold water from the tap/ supply into the cold water inlet of the unit and put a dummy hose on to  the hot inlet of the unit and clamp it shut. Is this washer able to tolerate this arrangement of no pressure into the unit or not ?

Offline Thorning

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #66 on: September 03, 2020, 01:06:50 AM »
I will be checking this washer out tomorrow to see if I can determine a problem but in the meantime I started to check prices for some parts for it.  I was amazed at parts prices for some of the items. They must all be gold plated  !  Can any customers afford to repair these machines if they stop working and are out of warranty  ? In the meantime can anyone help steer me to a manual  to check it out ?

Offline Thorning

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #67 on: September 03, 2020, 08:14:13 AM »
In checking this unit out, I found 2 large coins wedged in the bottom between the center agitator post and the outer ring. These were removed and I was able to get the unit to start a cycle and to  admit  water. The controls on this machine are the most complicated I have ever  seen !!!. It does not appear to be able to admit water properly possibly  since I have the hot water supply clamped off and I cannot get the control to adjust to a cold wash. I personally would never have his in my house although I think it is very water efficient  but I dont think it washes really dirty clothes. Comments for other users and tech are appreciated.

Offline jeff5may

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #68 on: September 03, 2020, 09:18:11 PM »
 I use a steam dryer adapter hose. Under 10 bucks at your local appliance parts house. Looks like a V, at each end are female fittings, the elbow has a male fitting. I connect the two females (don't forget to check for rubber washers at the supply house, I've been shorted before) to the patient and the male to a washer hose to whatever supply. Lots of the newer smart washers check for pressure at both fittings. Some of them have to eventually see hot water or they error code out. The vmw washers have a thermometer in the middle where the water runs down the ramp, but I believe they will run on the steam dryer adapter.

Offline jeff5may

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #69 on: September 03, 2020, 09:26:41 PM »
I just revived an Amana vmw last week that didn't flash the red light when the shifter went blind. The lid lock light just stayed solid red and the thing lost its functions. I've somewhat reverse engineered the photo sensor and the culprit with the red ones is usually a weak infrared LED. The photo receiver senses some light, but not enough to make the Schmitt trigger chip change states.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2020, 09:29:58 PM by jeff5may »

Offline Thorning

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #70 on: September 04, 2020, 06:27:02 AM »
I used a splitter hose to provide for water at both the hot and cold ports and it worked. I dont like the controls however and the wash cycle takes over an hour. Not for me. I love my Speed Queen.

Offline haroldsappliance

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #71 on: September 07, 2020, 05:11:07 AM »
It's a shame that they want you to by the trans when most of the time the tub seal leaked & the top bearing went bad. So I went to figuring them out years ago when I knew this was the direction they were going. The bearings in the trans covers are the same as the top bearing in the cabrio. So the bearings cost around $3 so the only money is the tub seal. Glad to share because I've learned a ton from great techs on the site.
Jason
. What is the part number on that bearing? Thanks

Offline jeff5may

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Re: VMW washers
« Reply #72 on: September 07, 2020, 05:45:00 PM »
Both bearings are 6006rs. Replacing both makes the gearcase silent again. Replacing the top bearing may quiet it down significantly, but the couple extra bucks is worth the silence IMHO.