For those that have a similar machine from this era.
Squeeking metal on metal sound during spin cycle, when you have the lid open and move the tub, very hard to push about vs. before.
Damper pads and high-temp adhesive kits required. Pads don't come with glue!
After repairs, it'll likely run another 10-20 years w/o needing replacement.
Follow the attached instructions - you'll get them with the damper pads from Maytag as well.
Unplug from AC!!!!! Pull machine forward so that when you tilt the front up by about 30-35 degrees, it won't hit anything.
1) Unscrew 2 front panel screws located in lower right and left FRONT. Tilt bottom of front panel forward until you can unhinge from the top two tabs holding the top front.
2) Unscrew 2 front left and right top screws. You'll have to peek into the washer and look up to the front corners to see them. They hold the top panel on.
3) Apply tape to the lid to hold it in place closed.
4) Take three 2x4 pieces of wood, cut to about a foot in length. Tape/screw/nail all three together - broad flat face to broad flat face. This will form the support you can put the bottom of the washer on to push the drum up later.
5) Tilt front of washer up. Prop carefully with the wood block you made in #4, and a few others on both sides as well.
(It's a 200lbs+ washing machine, so be careful! You can even use car repair ramps as well tucked under to hold the machine from dropping down on your hands.)
If you have both left and right sides propped up on solid wood, ramps, you're good.
6) Apply wd40 to the 3 eyelet screws holding down the tub springs.
7) Wrap tape around all three screws by the nuts so you have an indicator line later for retightening the springs to the original length.
Buy a $0.50 metal square electrical box (about 4x4x3). Push it onto the front spring near between the top and bottom of the coil. This is to help you later - you won't have to struggle pulling this spring down because the electrical box will keep the spring streteched. you may wish to tape around the sharp edges to prevent cutting yourself.
9) Remove the belts from below *5 is the center belt and wraps around the top of the corner motor shaft; *4 is the lower pump belt and goes below the drive belt (top = top of washing machine direction). All you need is a flat head screwdriver placed gently along the rotor, spin the rotor by hand and follow the belt around - just a touch of tilt and the belt will easily come off.
10) Unscrew the eyebolts. You may need a wrench on top and below to get corroded ones off, but otherwise, you can undo it from either top or bottom side with one wrench if not corroded.
After the front spring is loose, you can remove it completely from the upper tub hook and keep it out of your way.
11) Put the block of wood directly under the center drive shaft. Gently tilt the machine onto the wood block, making sure it's stable and centered. This will push the tub up enough to reveal the pads under.
(the smaller block of wood the manual shows really isn't stable or safe enough. Be Safe! Don't have a 200lbs washer drop on your arms/hands! Use a big block of wood wrapped/secured together in the center - you don't want this machine tilting when proped up.)
The block of wood under should just be tall enough to let the 4 legs barely touch but push up the center tub 1 1/2-2" so you can get to the damper pads.
12) Scrape off old pads and glue. Wipe several times down with alcohol. Nothing should be loose or too uneven. A bit of residual glue, etc. from last time is okay, just as long as it's not loose or bumpy enough to cause anything above it to catch and wear.
13) Apply glue to each pad, cover completely - not so thick that glue will squeeze out far from the edges after you've applied it to the base, but enough to make sure it stays in place for another 10+ years. Watch out, wear gloves - glue is really sticky.
You'll need a mirror that can be propped to see behind, and a bright light inside now.
14) You can follow the traces of where the old pads went. Apply each in place, press evenly all over to make sure it's flat and even. Repeat for all three, leaving gaps between each and top as noted in the repair handout.
If not in proper location, you've got a few dozen seconds to move the pads into the right position quickly!!
15) While it dries, apply included grease to each pad in the same order. Use the entire packet, use fingers (gloved) to smooth it all over evenly.
16) Wait a total of 30minutes after the last pad has been glued in place to ensure it stays.
17) Tilt washer and remove wood block from center. Put it on the sides to support the machine. Replace belt (wrap first around motor, then the other spindles - you can easily use your hand to rotate the tub shaft and the belt will easily guide itself back on both spindles).
18) Starting with the rear springs, bolt each back on, pushing the tub in that direction for just enough length to get the bolt screwed on a few turns. Don't tighten them completely. Reattach the front spring, then screw all the springs down back to the line marked by the tape wrapped around the eyelets.
19) Clear the bottom of the washer and drop the washer back down.
20) Screw the top back down.
21) Hinge the front panel back on, screw tight.
Plug in AC, make sure you remove tape from lid, open and close lid to make sure the lid switch is working. Turn to spin cycle, test.
Easy to do most steps. Unscrewing springs takes a bit longer since they are often corroded and need to wait for WD40 to loosen. And the blocking underneath while getting access takes time.
As long as you've got 2-3 hours, it's an 'easy' repair for most who are handy with tools.
Key here are to make sure you block the washing machine properly, prop it up safely, and use an electrical box to keep the front spring extended (this will be a big pain if you don't do this!!).
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