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Author Topic: Kenmore/Bosche KDI-19 detergent cups are OPEN but caked in cup, won't drop  (Read 5790 times)

Offline AlsoThumbs

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I also replaced one of the bi-metals, and cleaned the other with De-Oxit.
So are they opening at the wrong part of the cycle?  But the detergent should still drop.
So is water getting in during the cycle and caking it?
« Last Edit: May 29, 2014, 01:57:08 PM by AlsoThumbs »

Offline AJ

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Are you sure the dishwasher is filling with water during each cycle as it should.

Offline LowSL2

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KDI-19 is a Hobart built KitchenAid...  Are the detergent cups opening during the cycle?  Is water spraying during the cycle?
LowSL2
15+ Years of Professional Appliance Repair Experience
Former $ears/a$e tech

Offline AlsoThumbs

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The dishes are wet & half clean. Yes at least one cup is opening.  I was focused on them not opening so replaced the bimetal.   After replacing the bimetal my wife pointed out that the detergent was caked in the opened cup.

??? Why did I type Bosche?  I know its a Hobart...
« Last Edit: May 30, 2014, 10:12:55 AM by AlsoThumbs »

Offline scrapiron

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I believe, on the KDI-19, the bi-metals are in series with the wash motor. Therefore, if the motor isn't drawing enough current due to low water fill, plugged pump screens or broken/stripped wash impeller, the bi-metal won't flex enough to allow the soap cups to release. Also, dishes won't be clean & soap won't be washed out of the soap cups. Check to make sure it's getting sufficient water, that the round screen below the washarm is really clean & that the wash impeller is not broken or stripped. Also, check the center post on the washarm support. make sure it hasn't come loose from the bakelite housing.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2014, 01:35:30 PM by scrapiron »

Offline AlsoThumbs

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I installed a new motor recently.  Put in new impeller etc. The debris screen is clean.  I'll check the post...

Offline AlsoThumbs

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OK... cannot see anything wrong with the wash arms.  Took off the impeller top housing, nothing in there blocking the works.  BUT the gasket is stretched... again... This time I don't have a spare, so I cut it and removed about 1/3 inch to make the two halves meet (pretty close).

If the gasket stretches and comes out of its channel, can enough water leak between the impeller housing halves to prevent the lower wash arm from getting enough water?

Offline scrapiron

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Sounds possible.

Offline AlsoThumbs

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At 63 minutes in the Pots & Pans Scrub cycle, it should be in Blower on/off cycle from 56:40 to 96:10.
BUT it is still Rinsing full of hot water. Just stopped...
At about 68 min it is now doing nothing, but full of water.

At least both cups are now open.  Last time I looked the right side was not open -- but I didn't know it was so far "behind" in the time.

So does the timer get old and need replacing?  OR is this an extended "water heating time" as denoted by the * in the chart?  It takes 2 1/2 gallons before the water actually gets hot...

72 minutes just started running again...its Rinsing...
77 min... Draining... I think this is the "rinse agent dispenser" portion (don't have that dispenser though)
78:xx ...stopped
79:xx ...draining again  (Scavenge?)
80:21... stopped
Blower

So about 23 minutes for water heating

Interesting, but useless for solving this intermittant problem with one or both cups not opening ... yesterday both cups were open but full of hardened detergent (ie got wet).  Hope it was the gasket...

Offline scrapiron

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Final rinse is water heat time. I would say that you shouldn't worry about the minute count. Run the next cycle. If it washes and drys the dishes & the soap cups open and the soap is rinsed out, it's fixed. Replace the support gasket & enjoy your dishwasher.

Offline AlsoThumbs

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Ran it a second time.  The right hand cup still has about 1/3 of its contents caked in it.

I think I adjusted the lever so its doesn't need much movement to release.  Maybe I can make it more sensitive...
« Last Edit: June 02, 2014, 05:40:39 PM by AlsoThumbs »

Offline Bailey

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Don't forget to check for proper water level.Like scrapiron said, the motor has to work hard enough to draw the right amount of current through the bimetal.Low water level allows the motor to just idle along. I used to know how much amp draw was needed. Maybe someone here still has a manual. I remember replacing a bimetal once in a while because they would get weak.

Offline theoldstoveguy

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I loosen the screw holding the bimetal until it BARELY catches and that usually works rather than change the bimetal.

Offline dab147315

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I would let the dishwasher fill with water and then open dishwasher fast and see if you catch both lower and upper spray arms moving and spraying water out.Make sure lower spray arms holes are not clog.And i thing on the lower spray arm there are a couple small holes when you remove it and turn it up side down.Make sure they are clear.Sounds like from your last post the cup is opening but not washing soap out of cup.Make sure that screen filter is not inter fearing with the lower spray arm.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2014, 10:25:32 PM by dab147315 »
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