GE Fridge - Bottom load Freezer working, Top fridge is not.

[Zach Lepine]

I've done just about everything I can think of to try and make this fridge work. The top fridge section is not getting cooled at all. The bottom freezer's back panel used to be covered in ice, which I have since defrosted. After removing the back panel, there was still a considerable amount of ice. Based on reading far too many forums, it seems it could be....
1. The defrost thermostat (though one forum said it was highly unlikely for GE fridges made after 2000)
2. The evap fan...which i have yet to see run so it could very likely be the case
3. Something about a heater???

Im confused and ready to throw in the towel on my DIY repair project. ANY help would be appreciated.

[apu]

  What is the model number?

[Zach Lepine]

The model number is GBS22HCRAWW

[apu]

31-9112

 Go to the service manual sect.  It is in the google drive frig. section.


Jim

[AJ]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzIiBNwRIV4NamVkMzEwVmJyS3c/edit?usp=sharing

[tgoods]

Completely defrost the evaporator and see if it starts cooling.  If you leave the door open for a few minutes, the fan should come on at full speed.  A defrost problem can one of four components, heater, limit thermostat, thermistor or control board.  Look for a blown solder joint on the back of the control board. Check the other components with an ohmmeter.

[AggielandApplianceRepair]

Get access to the evap fan. Push in door switch and see if fan runs after 15 seconds. If not, unplug fan and check voltage. If voltage present you have bad fan. If no voltage and it has a main control board suspect the board

[MojoTexas]

Sorry for the topic necromancy, but I'm about to try and fix this same issue for this exact same model number (GBS22HCRAWW). I will post results. I was pleased to find the PDF for the Technical Service Guide!

[MojoTexas]

My evaporator coils were completely frosted over. I thawed them out with a hair dryer, and I have the freezer and fridge cooling now. I want to verify that the fridge gets to normal temperature ranges before I start putting everything else back together.

My fan works fine, so will try to check the other components (heater, limit thermostat, and thermistor) with my multimeter before I close it up. If they are all fine, should I just assume that the problem is the control board?

We recently moved to a new house back in mid-August, and I'm wondering if the move could have caused the excessive frosting since it was unplugged, moved, and re-plugged in several hours later.

[MojoTexas]

I checked the resistance of the evaporator heater and thermostat, and it was about 22.75Ω instead of 32Ω like the service manual suggested.

Do y'all think I should replace both the thermostat and the heater, or just the heater? I couldn't find the detailed resistance of both elements in the document, but I would think that a 10Ω could either be a marginal heater or a faulty thermostat. I'm curious what y'all think, since I'm an amateur at appliance repair. 

The service manual says:

Note: The resistance of the thermostat and defrost heater can be taken by removing the access panel located in the upper left section of the evaporator cover. Remove the screw and pull the cover forward to expose the two-wire connector. Unplug the connector and read the resistance between the two terminals. Since the thermostat and heater are in series, the reading should be approximately 32 Ω.