Whirlpool Duet front load washer error code FH

[jimhokie]

Model GWH9150PWO:
When my wife started a cycle, it initially added water, but after about 10 minutes, the cycle had stopped and it was displaying the FH error code (apparently after the second time in the cycle when it adds water).  Subsequent attempts to run a cycle did not add ANY water, and would display the FH code within a minute or so.

I verified the water supply valves are on, the inlet screens are clean, and the pump strainer/filter is clean.

I ran the diagnostic test, and at Step C:01 (tests flowmeter and cold water inlet valve), the test displayed code FH.  I restarted the test and skipped over this step so the rest of the tests could be run.  It next stopped at C:03 (tests hot water inlet valve)--FH code.  I restarted and skipped past C:03, and it stopped at C:05 (test heater if present (not on mine), and if there is not enough water in the tub, it adds water)--FH code.  I restarted and skipped past C:05 and it completed the remainder of the diagnostic tests with no error messages.  Since the only steps flagged were those where water was supposed to be added, it sounds like a bad water inlet valve, right?  No--I replaced that and get the exact same symptoms.

Since I had similar symptoms about 2 months ago, that ended up being a bad drain pump motor, I tested the motor resistance (OK) and that it was getting voltage (OK), and could see that it tries to pump a small amount of residual water in the drain line, so it is turning.  Don't think it's the drain pump.

I then tested the voltage going to both the hot and cold water inlet valve solenoids, and neither is getting voltage when they should be opened.  I unplugged and replugged the wiring harness into the control unit to ensure a good connection.  I notice that when starting a cycle, the drain pump is running continuously until the error code stops the cycle. The manual description of the pressure switch says "If an overfill condition is detected by the pressure switch, the CCU will turn on the drain pump and attempt to stop filling."  So, could the pressure switch be falsely detecting an overfill, and therefore running both the drain pump and stopping water from coming in? I had dismissed the pressure switch because that is only noted as a possible problem for code FH if there is water in the unit, but it is not adding any water.

Could the pressure switch fail like this--falsely detecting an overfill rather than just not detecting any water?

Any other thoughts?

[jimhokie]

Oops, my correct model number is GHW9150PWO.

[go400]

Could be a clog in the sensing tubing to the water level switch; pull it off and blow in it to check.

[jimhokie]

Yes, I've blown through the tube and it seems clear.  I've also tried it with the tube disconnected.  No water flow at all...

[go400]

Blow in the water level switch, it should click off, maybe it is stuck.

[jimhokie]

When I blow into the pressure switch, I hear one click with light pressure and a second click with a little more pressure, and it clicks similarly as I release the pressure, so it sounds like the low level and overflow levels are activating and deactivating properly.  I do get continuity across the terminals that should be connected when the tank is empty (per the manual), so the pressure switch seems OK.

Does anyone know how to check the flowmeter, which is one of the things recommended for the FH error code?  Neither the manual nor tech sheet say how to test this.  I tried to ensure it was properly connected, but when I pulled the connector plug, a little circuit board came out with some sort of sensor on it.  I presume this sensor detects revolutions of the internal paddle wheel as a way to measure flowrate.  How can this be tested other than replacing it?

I'm leaning toward the flowmeter being the problem by process of elimination, but still puzzled how this will prevent water from entering even at the beginning of the cycle before the CCU determines it is not measuring any water flow.  I wonder if the unit does some kind of diagnostic at the beginning of a cycle before allowing any water to enter, the prevents the water valve from opening if it detects a fault in, say in the flowmeter, pressure switch, and/or the drain pump (I had similar symptoms a couple months ago when my drain pump motor crapped out).

[Washaman]

Common problem with the pressure switch. I had the same issue with one a few months ago. I replaced the switch and it was fine. Replace it.

[jimhokie]

Despite the self-diagnostic test not flagging the CCU, I finally replaced the CCU after a new pressure switch also did not fix it.  The new CCU fixed it!!! My final theory that the reason the control wasn't sending voltage to the inlet valves to open was because of a CCU malfunction rather than some other control input to the computer (bad pressure switch, bad drain pump motor, bad flowmeter, etc.) preventing the control from signalling for water, turned out to be correct.

Lesson learned: Don't rule out the CCU just because the self-diagnostic test doesn't flag it.

Also, I learned how to test the flowmeter.  I wish someone could have told me before I bought a new part that I can't return. The tech sheet inside the washer only says to blow into it and measure the resistance, but doesn't say what a working or bad unit resistance would be.  Here's the deal: put the ohmeter probes on the two contacts while you blow through the flowmeter.  A properly working flowmeter will read 0 before blowing in it and 3-4 ohms (or 30-40 or 300-400, not sure what setting I had the dial on).  A few seconds after the rotor stops turning, the resistance drops back to zero.  Both my original and replacement did the same thing, so I put the old one back in.

I hope this thread helps someone else with the FH error code.

[AJ]

Glad to hear you got it working.

Also, I learned how to test the flowmeter.  I wish someone could have told me before I bought a new part that I can't return.

For what it's worth any parts purchased from http://repairclinic.com or http://appliancepartspros.com can be return for any reason, (even if they had been installed) for up to 365 days.

Thanks for the update.

[jimhokie]

Yes, after buying an over-priced water inlet valve and flowmeter from my local appliance store that couldn't be returned and which weren't the problem, I found repairclinic.com and bought both the pressure switch and CCU once I found I could return them if they didn't fix it.  And they take old CCUs for $35 to refurbish.

[catrydr]

Hello guys,

I am having the same problem with my Kenmore HE4T.

I have replaced:
Water Inlet Valve
Water flow meter
Pressure switch
and CCU

NO LOVE! The machine is still kicking into the FH error after about 2 minutes. I run the diagnostic check and the machine fails at C:01

I have read so many forums and seems none has the right fix for me.

I am exhausted and frustrated! 

Any idea at all if there is any other checks or tests that I run. I have replaced every part I believe I can.

I also have check pressure from my house supply to make sure this is not to blame and house pressure seems to be fine.

Thanks

[dab147315]

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-hose-w10004260-ap4310571.html
Have you look at hose that goes from pressure switch to tub.Don,t know if this is your part number for hose since you never posted your model Number?You should of started your own thread.

[catrydr]

Thank you so much for the reply

I have checked the hose going from machine to pressure switch. It looks brand new, no holes or pin hole anywhere. Im changing my water supply lines tonight. Its the only thing I haven't replaced yet. Not sure why it would matter but Im gonna try anyways.

fingers crossed

[dab147315]

They are thinking that you have these anti flood fill hoses that you cannot use on a washer.
http://www.watts.com/pages/whatsnew/floodsafe_connectors.asp

[catrydr]

HOOOOOO RAAAAAAAYYY!!

New hoses solved my month long journey!

Thank you guys very much for the advise!!

[dab147315]

Did you have those anti- flood hoses??

[catrydr]

Oh no guys! Terrible news.

The machine made it a whole 48 hours and started failing again.
The good news is it doesn't do it every time like it was. Now it periodically fails at all different times within a load.
Sometimes within a few minutes and sometimes towards end of cycle. Sometimes it finishes a whole load no prob.

All the new parts I put on machine (water inlet, water flowmeter, ccu, pressure switch) I took back off with intent to return them to Alppliancepartspro.

What should I replace first? I still have all the parts!

AND I'm not sure if I had hoses with a check valve in them. They were older and solid gray unlike the new ones I put on that are Braided Stainless.

Thank you

[haroldsappliance]

Good info. Thanks to all.