Author Topic: Kenmore 70 series electric dryer...wont heat (Read 67533 times)

lalakelley · « **Reply #40 on:** May 28, 2008, 10:57:04 PM »

Im going to go to bed now...will you be on tomorrow?!

RegUS_PatOff · « **Reply #41 on:** May 28, 2008, 11:00:04 PM »

I don't know about that other wire..

I may be here sometime tommorrow, other someone else may be around...

Also, check the voltage at the (3) terminals on the back of the dryer.

120v from each of the OUTER ones to CENTER
240v across OUTER ONES

With power cord unplugged, check to see if the terminals are tight.

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #42 on:** May 28, 2008, 11:32:53 PM »

Can you post some photos of what your looking at and what your testing?

lalakelley · « **Reply #43 on:** May 29, 2008, 08:08:40 AM »

I could do that tonight hopefully...I'm at work right now, so I'm not near the dryer to test anything on it nor can I take pic

But I will do what I can tonight...My hubby is to the point that he wants to just replace the thermal fuse and be done with it, but if that is not the problem then it won't work :-/

lalakelley · « **Reply #44 on:** May 29, 2008, 08:44:35 AM »

We tested the wires connected to #34 in this picture...since i am not home to take the pic I figured I'd use this one

lalakelley · « **Reply #45 on:** May 30, 2008, 05:49:53 PM »

Ok, UPDATE...My husband never tested those last things you suggested but has given up on all the test...he left to go get a new fuse and thermostat...he will be putting them in tonight so I will let you know how it works

JWWebster · « **Reply #46 on:** May 30, 2008, 09:47:20 PM »

#1 is likely gone bad as pictured. Luckily both 34 and number 1 come in the same package and they recommend both get replaced. Why? Because 34 is a 250f degree limit(resetable internally) and #1 is a 300f degree limit non-re-setable, Obviously the number 34 klixon failed to do it's job or more likely did it's job till it died due to poor venting problems or faulty control thermostats.

lalakelley · « **Reply #47 on:** May 31, 2008, 07:41:59 AM »

WELL...that didn't work, so today he is going to go get a new heating element, the thermal fuse and the other thermostat that is near connected into the vent housing thing. We figure this is going to work cause after that point we will have replaced almost everything on the dryer and have olmost a new dryer

Earl Dryer · « **Reply #48 on:** June 01, 2008, 03:51:24 PM »

Try this, I've had these small elements drive me crazy because they
test good but they are fused. Clip the test leads on each of they element terminals, set the OHMMeter to show a mid scale reading then gently shake the element back & forth up & down watch the
meter. I have 2 in the last month that were fused but would close back up when the cooled then open when they began to heat.

lalakelley · « **Reply #49 on:** June 02, 2008, 08:28:10 AM »

UPDATE

He went to Sears on Saturday, to buy the thermal fuse(which they didnt have) other thermostat(which the didnt have either) and heating element(they had this). When he got home he replaced the heating element and the dryer works GREAT. Better than when we first bought it

Thank you though for all your help

WHIRLPOOL 279838 Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, AP3094254

AJ · « **Reply #50 on:** June 02, 2008, 04:40:56 PM »

Glad to hear you got it repaired.

Thanks for the update.

johnbessa · « **Reply #51 on:** November 23, 2011, 02:19:21 PM »

I see that you guys are testing with the machine on. I had a no-heat problem (after replacing the belt) that I successfully traced using "a continuity tester" which was the OHM reader on an up-to-date (yellow w/ battery) volt meter. I needed a helper when the wires went from the back to under the drum where the motor is. (Drum was out.)

I strongly NOT suggest using full power for testing continuity (but OK on cars w/ 12v) esp if there is a possibility of a kid or pet touching the inner parts, but using an OHM meter. You can make one by wiring a flashlight bulb to a battery with one wire, and to two nails from the batter and the other lead of the light bulb (which I have done many times).

John

JWWebster · « **Reply #52 on:** November 23, 2011, 04:22:04 PM »

I don't suggest ever checking anything with it plugged in. The correct procedure is to remove wires from each component and check em for continuity. The open component is the bad component. Nothing needs to be plugged in to be checked. Even if you had an idiot light and checked each component that would not prove a part was ok UNLESS you yank one wire off each component and check for power between that wire and the component with the machine running. That is just plain dumb. Trust me. Been there done that.

RegUS_PatOff · « **Reply #53 on:** November 24, 2011, 02:40:03 AM »

I usually test with voltage applied
no need to disconnect anything
i.e. Electric Dryer Heater circuit...
voltage here... voltage here... voltage here... voltage here... oops .. no voltage here. . !

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