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« Last post by rockinrobin on June 24, 2020, 10:54:42 PM »
Spannerwrench, I need it as well but not able to view it for some reason so can you attach file so i can download instead? TIA!
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« Last post by Thorning on June 24, 2020, 09:55:08 PM »
The above model washer given to me as a possible repair job. The previous owner said it would run but the tub would bounce a lot so much so that it would hit the sides of the housing. There do not appear to be any broken suspension springs but the tub does seem to be quite wobbly. Is this a known problem ? Is there a cure for it ? Need comments from other techs out there. Also I cannot find a parts listing for it.
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Hi - Just moved a this LG washer, and did not have the transport bolts attached when moved because previous owner did not have them and were in a rush to get it out of their house, i know not smart but here we are. This unit worked fine, until it was moved. Essentially we did one load of laundry, no issues. Did a heavier load (sheets,towels) of laundry and then started hearing noises, smelling burning (I think rubber), and then stopped and opened up to front door to smoke. Thoughts on this? In reading I think it would be the Spyder Control arm thats been damaged but does it change anything or confirm anything, given that this unit was transported without the transport bolts? Just want to make sure I dont go through doing all of this work just to have another issue come up. Thanks!
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Hi - thanks all for the info on this. I think the spyder arm needs replaced on my unit but before going through all the hassle of that. I had a quick question. This unit worked fine, until it was moved (did not have the transport bolts attached when moved because previous owner did not have them and were in a rush to get it out of their house, i know not smart but here we are). Essentially we did one load of laundry, no issues. Did a heavier load of laundry and then started hearing noises, smelling burning rubber, and then stopped and in opened up to front door to smoke. Thoughts on this? Does it change anything or confirm anything, given that this unit was transported without the transport bolts? Thanks!
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« Last post by jleo_jleo on June 24, 2020, 10:18:45 AM »
Additional information: So, when I replaced the defrost thermostat, just wanted to say that the evap fairly well frosted, but what was notable was that the bottom of the evap coils sitting in the defrost drain pan was completely blocked up with solid ice. I'd say at least 1-2 inches of solid ice.
Not sure if this helps, but it confuses me as you'd think this would happen ONLY if the defrost heater WAS working and somehow it's just building up at the bottom. Please note I did clean the drain tube, (to some extent). I snaked it with a smaller diameter vacuum line I had laying around down to about 10-12" inches.. Not sure that's enough..
Any helpful comments welcome.
Thanks again!
-Joe
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« Last post by Thorning on June 24, 2020, 10:16:32 AM »
It may not do you any good for this particular model but I used a couple of small air bag devices under the bottom of the agitator to apply upward pressure to pop the agitator loose . This is almost always necessary on the Speed Queen models . They dont use a bolt in the top end but rather a splined coupling under the bottom section of the agitator. It works like a charm. These are available at places like Menards or Home Depot for about $18 each under the name WIN BAG and are usually found in the area of windows and doors since they are very helpful in raising doors and windows for installation. Hope this helps.
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« Last post by tagarman on June 23, 2020, 08:05:08 PM »
Sounds like the splines inside the top of the plastic agitator are stripped out. When you turn the bolt, you are spinning the agitator shaft inside the top of the plastic agitator. You will have to brake off the old agitator and replace it with a new one. The last one I did was able to purchase just the bottom half of the agitator and use the old top half with the spiral part. It might not split with a chisel. If not try cutting it off with a Dremmel. Good Luck!
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« Last post by boxer on June 23, 2020, 01:08:37 PM »
I have a Samsung Refrigerator Model RF23J9011SR/AA Rev. 08 purchased in December 2016 (about 3 ½ years old).
I have a problem where there is frost buildup within the icemaker (see photos). I therefore do a manual (forced) defrost about every 4 to 6 weeks. The procedure I use is:
On the front panel press Freezer (top left) and Cool Select (middle right) buttons simultaneously for about 8 seconds, until there is a “ping” and the display goes blank. Then, press any other button until “Fd” appears (I usually press the Crushed Ice button). Each press selects a different special test mode – “FF”, then “OF C”, then “Fr”, then finally “Fd”. Once Fd is selected it goes into the Forced Defrost mode and will beep for about 25 minutes while it is defrosting. During this period all lights on the front panel are off. At the end the beeping stops, normal lights come on at the front panel, and the refrigerator is back to normal and the frost in the icemaker has melted.
However, when I went through this process 2 days ago, it went into Fd, but after about 10-15 seconds it gave a “ping” sound, the normal lights came on in the display, but the beeping continued for the usual 25 minutes, after which it stopped. However, there had been no defrosting, the frost build-up in the icemaker was still there.
I repeated this 2-3 times with the same results. The only way to stop the beeping after hearing the “ping” (indicating it was coming out of Forced Defrost mode to normal operation) was to power off the fridge.
Here are a few questions:
1. What causes the frost buildup, requiring the forced defrost? My friend has the identical fridge, he does not have this issue.
2. Most importantly, how do I get it to do the manual defrost? Is there some other method to force it? What might have gone wrong?
3. Even better, what can I do to prevent the frost buildup?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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« Last post by ovexi on June 23, 2020, 12:32:21 PM »
I'm getting the error code 8E2 on my Samsung WF511ABW washer. I did a lot of reading and some suggested that the rear MEMS sensor may need replacement.
I've purchased the sensor P/N DC93-00278D, replaced it and the washer worked for a couple of loads and then displayed the error message again.
Anybody knows what else I can try? Thanks in advance
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« Last post by jleo_jleo on June 23, 2020, 12:12:38 PM »
Hi folks - brand new here...
Have a recurring issue where my refrigerator's temperature is increasing over time (after a manual thaw) due to the evaporator coils icing up. This first started about a month ago when a transformer blew up on our block and we lost power.. I hadn't put the transformers outage to the root cause, because I had been reading that the typical problem generally happens because of a bad defrost thermostat. Previous defrost therm tested bad (didn't change continuity when hot/cold) always was open (0.0 ohms). New one passed and so was installed 8 days ago.
Today I was greeted with a 39 degree refrigerator temperature which is now 6 degrees higher than what it is set for (33) and is now repeated behavior to what it was prior to defrost thermostat replacement. I ordered a main board this morning hoping this will cure it once and for all.
Any additional words of wisdom or course correction?
Thanks!
-Joe
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