« Last post by sapp4l on March 31, 2021, 12:15:13 PM »
After listing to the video several (OK, a lot of times) times, I have to think this is from the compressor. It's too loud to be something 'small', and the 'pump' sound doesn't sound like anything else.
All that said, can't explain the behavior. Would a 'flaky' inverter cause this?... I mean that it has a strange start and then vibrates the compressor rather than rotating it. The next 'start' might work fine.
I'm not too familiar with the failure modes of the inverter.
Any expert thoughts on this thinking?
Not to excited about changing a $160 part without a bit more guidance, but at least the change out looks simple.
Thanks for any ideas here.
« Last post by sapp4l on March 31, 2021, 08:11:49 AM »
Hope this isn't a repost as my first try seems to have gone off into the "ether'..
I have a GE french door (bottom freezer) refrigerator, model PWE23KSKBSS circa 2016
The cooling and ice making performance is fine - no problems there.
Woke up this AM to a loud 'buzzing' sound from the refrigerator that was happening continuously, and for many minutes (didn't stop by itself). The sound was louder when I opened the upper doors, and sounded louder at the upper end of the fridge, but can't be certain as noise travels in strange ways.
Key thing is that I turned off power to the breaker, and after a minute, turned it back on and the noise is gone. I did hear the compressor restart (slowly, as this is an inverter driven machine). Machine is operating normally now.
No error codes or lights flashing on display.
The noise is LOUD, and sounds like a pump, but I don't know of any pumps on this beast. Didn't sound like a fan, but who knows. Low pitched and continuous.
This has happened one or twice before -- maybe several months ago, and the fridge works fine after a power reset. I did take the back cover off last time -- cleaned everything and nothing unusual found.
Any thoughts? Online advice on noises seems to focus on fans, water valves, compressor start devices (this is an inverter unit), and ice maker components.
I did make a video recording, but don't know of a way to post it to this forum. Would be happy to share this.
« Last post by Thorning on March 30, 2021, 03:45:35 PM »
I have been given an older Speed Queen gas dryer with model number HG6009L for repair. The repair was minor but the drum has the typical problem on a lot of older units of this type in that the drum has a bump at the seam where the support rollers or front support glide strips ride. This is evident when the drum rotates with a thump thump thump noise. I mentioned this in a previous entry a few months ago but got very little response .I have not done anything to revise it but am requesting other techs to comment on the subject. I have considered using some BONDO type filler to fill in the area but dont believe the material would stay in place. Another possible idea is to put a steel strip about 4 inches long in place over the seam using my MIG welder and tacking it and then smoothing any rough edges. This would be a little tricky to do with any success. Comments are invited
« Last post by FrForget on March 30, 2021, 01:50:30 PM »
Hi Everyone 😀,
I just bought a new overload protector (B57-120) and a new Starter Relay (QP2-4.7G12) to repair my Sanyo SR-W4500(M) Wine Cooler, but I have one small issues..... I forgot where to connect which wire..... Could anyone help me?
I've been looking online for the manual but can't find it. There's 2 sets of wires, one with a blue and brown wire, the other one with 2 black wire stuck in some sort of jelly!
I hope someone can help me!
« Last post by haloguy628 on March 30, 2021, 07:04:15 AM »
Hi new poster here. I have BOSCH NETP068SUC Benchmark line cooktop. It started to have problems being turned on. I had to disconnect the 220V plug wait some time and plug it back in. Then it worked. However later the problem progressed to the point where only the burner crosses came on and stayed for 5 sec then it was dead after the dc/connect. Finally the cooktop went dead completely and did not beep or any lights come on after dc/connect procedure.
So since this is one of the Benchmark cooktops there is not much on the web about this model. It's usually the 800 line NETP066SUC that is mentioned and the few posts with similar problems as mine advised to replace the control board. Well I replaced the control board (Control module PN 11029683), then the relay board (Module-relay PN 11016600) and finally the small control board (Control module PN 12009051). Still dead. I checked the 220V plug for voltage - OK. The continuity of the 220 cord from the plug to the coding plug in the cooktop and continuity from the coding plug to the relays on the relay board. All are OK.
I am completely stumped and can't think of anything else to check or replace. Can anybody give me any advice on what may be wrong? All parts were purchased directly from BOSCH.
Just wanted to follow up for others’ knowledge. I found another (used) motor from the same year, and it works again! However, the “new” motor’s rotor and housing was in poor condition, so I swapped the electronics (not the motor coils), and it’s working great! I believe the problem was indeed in the electronics, specifically in a built-in speed (Hall) sensor as I initially suspected.
So, some motors that look similar use two wires to likely get three-phase power from the control board, while others may get three-phase from the motors’ electronics. As others have said, you need to get the right motor.
« Last post by cellsale on March 27, 2021, 09:41:28 PM »
I have a Dacor warming drawer, model IOWO24, that was purchased/installed in 2006. It has worked perfectly for almost 15 years but has just stopped working. The Override Switch is not lighting up and the drawer is not heating up. Could someone please suggest the most common parts that fail on these things? So far I have found an exploded view of it and identified the following parts:
Override Switch 62659
Temperature Control 72212
Timer Assembly. 13169
High Temperature Limit 82353
Heating Element. 72325
Clip Sensor Bulb. 83267
Does anyone have any troubleshooting advice? What order should I try replacing these parts in? Thanks for any help everyone can provide!
« Last post by Adman on March 27, 2021, 07:59:25 PM »
We have a Blanco BMS755 oven where a wire has come off the selection knob setting mount. (see uploaded pic)
Can anyone tell me which slot the clip slides back into at the back of the setting knob?
« Last post by Thorning on March 27, 2021, 03:27:20 PM »
You should check the blower to see if it is delivering air thru the drum properly. Also check the outlet vent to see if there is a problem or a kink in the hose or tube. This will result in longer drying time. Also check to make sure the thermostats are correct. The air temperature coming out of the back of the dryer should be at least 150 degrees.
« Last post by CJLDAD on March 27, 2021, 02:55:12 PM »
So I have an older Frigidaire side by side that for the past couple of months will have a hard time starting the compressor..
It will usually thermal out a couple times and start..
So, I thought let's get a hard start kit...
Purchased a Supco URCO410-0 to replace the start kit on the compressor..
I hooked it up plugged it in and bam, it started right up.. Thought I was golden..
About 20-30 seconds go by and then it goes back to LRA and is pulling around 10amps..
I left it there for about a minute to see if it would thermal out and it did not..
Unplugged and let it sit for a few mins.. Plugged back in and the process happened over again...
So I'm at a loss....
Obviously the kit started the compressor just fine but then it would just crap out on me...
I opened the OE start kit and found the PTC half destroyed, so that's probably why I was having issues with the OE part..
I just can't understand what the hard start kit would start then fail....
Thanks for any insight!!
By the way, I wired the OE start kit back and while it does have trouble starting, it will eventually start and run...