« Last post by shillion on June 28, 2021, 10:11:32 AM »
Hello Houptee,thank you for responding to my question.I went back to check the Hisense fridge.Found out the airdoor actually was functioning,open and close as designed.But no air was coming up to the fresh food compartment.So I closed one big air outlet hole in the freezer compartment,also closed an air return,to force cold air to go up.It cools the upper compartment,though still not cold enough.So I was thinking may be the fan is not fast enough,may go back to close more holes.
« Last post by mkhuu1993 on June 28, 2021, 09:42:07 AM »
Anyone has a working link for this particular video? TIA
« Last post by mkhuu1993 on June 28, 2021, 09:29:01 AM »
Thank you for your help houptee. yes I blew the condenser, in the end, compressor was pulling 0.86Amps
High side line 97F
Low side 24 psi (28F)
High side 109 psi (93F)
It seemed to be working at this point. at 24 hours it was cooling properly, freezer freezing. Let's hope there will be no recall...
« Last post by houptee on June 28, 2021, 08:06:26 AM »
Low side pressure is too high should be close to 0 psi and high side 100-110 psi
Any frost pattern on evaporators?
Did you blow out the condenser before replacing the drier to check for black sludge and oil in condenser?
They spit oil into the condenser when the compressor fails so most techs just put in a new condenser when they do compressors on LGs.
Check your inbox I will send you a LG training document.
« Last post by houptee on June 28, 2021, 07:04:30 AM »
What did you find out on this unit?
What is your overall opinion of Hisense machines?
They have the lowest price in US for a full size 36" stainless french door machine.
Lowes is only place I have seen Hisense sold but Best Buy has same Hisense machines with their house brand name Insignia on them.
« Last post by gizmoduck on June 27, 2021, 05:03:44 PM »
Appliance repair newbie here.
Hi, around 2 months ago I noticed the temperature readout on my upright freezer struggling to stay below around -10 C. I took off the cover and found the freezer coils to be completely frosted over. This was my first time trying to repair a freezer. After following some youtube videos I diagnosed the problem to be a faulty defrost thermostat as there was no current running through the thermostat (it was still very cold at the time of testing). I replaced the thermostat with a new one from Amazon and I was super proud when everything seemed to be working great. Wife was super impressed. 2 days ago I noticed the exact same issue happening, the temperature could not get below about -9 C. I opened up the panel and found the freezer coils to be completely frosted over again (See photo below)!! I checked for current through the thermostat (while frozen) and I got a current, so I assume its working. I checked for a current though the defrost heater assembly and I got a current with my meter. The freezer is in good shape with good insulation around the door. No strange noises. No obvious electrical or circuitry bugs. From further youtube research I began to suspect the control board could be malfunctioning as it seems like the defrost heater must not be functioning. I tried to see if I could access the control board but I'm having a lot of trouble removing the face plate with the control display and control board from the freezer door. Perhaps I'm not being rough enough. I tried prying it off with a scraper. I was able to hear a few "pops" from the top segment but I cant get the panel off with my current level of force. Any advice on better diagnosing/repairing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
« Last post by PGB1 on June 27, 2021, 03:45:12 PM »
Hi To All!
We have a Maytag Bravos, Model # MVWB850WQ1 which we bought in 2010.
The display panel will occasionally show the code "LD", which means "Long Drain". This shuts the machine off. The hose is clear of debris.
Yesterday, the pump would not pump water, but it sounded like it was running (perhaps dry). A couple of power-off/power-on cycles of the switch got it going. Today, it works.
I took the pump off & bench tested it. For certain the bearings are worn, as the impeller wobbles, but the motor starts & the pump pumps every time. But...
I noticed that the tub appears to have a screen on the bottom covering the circulating & drain pump inlets. (The tub is translucent, so visibility was available.) The screen has a lot of junk on it. (Photos are attached)
Is it possible that this junk on the bottom creates a restriction, allowing less water to the pump and triggering the long drain shut down?
If so, is there a way to clean this gooby stuff out without removing the basket? A long, thin coffee urn brush could not go in due to plastic ribs blocking the access points (where the pumps connect to the tub).
I've heard that washing machine cleaner will dissolve it, but I thought I'd ask you experts before I spend $ 8.00 on a wild goose chase. (We've never used it, so who knows what evil is growing in there.)
We have another drain pump on mail order, so if the basket has to come out I've got a few days to attack it.
Thanks Very Much for sharing your knowledge & experience with this question.
Please Enjoy Today!
« Last post by mabrl on June 27, 2021, 10:05:30 AM »
I'm new to this forum and I am looking for the service manual of the wine cooler DWC283BLS from Danby. It's a dual-zone wine cooler and I have a E1 error on the top zone. I couldn't find any information in this forum (or the web) on what this code refers to... I have checked both temperature sensors and they are both working fine.
Anyone has a service manual for it? Or can tell me what the E1 error means?
« Last post by houptee on June 25, 2021, 10:21:12 PM »
The new version compressor seems to be lasting much longer they redesigned it and have new software update for the mainboard.
You might get more life out of it once they do the updates.
There were some older models that had leaks in the evaporator which sucks air into the tubing after all the gas is leaked out.
The oil in the system gels up when moisture mixes with it clogging up the tiny tubing so those machines are shot even if you replace the compressor because you cant clean all the gel sludge out of the tubing.
« Last post by Alhelpzer on June 25, 2021, 09:39:58 AM »
AlhelpzerThe compressor is probably running but the reed valve inside broke so it is not compressing the gas anymore.
The smaller diameter tube coming out of the discharge of the compressor going to the condenser coil should be like 20 deg hotter than the room temp. So if its 75 deg F ambient in your kitchen the condenser should be around 95 deg give or take but definitely hotter than the room otherwise it is not pumping compressing the gas.
Or all the gas leaked out but most likely the valve broke in the linear compressor.
Neither of those possible issues would set any error codes on front of fridge display and would not flash any error on the main board either.
Thanks for the info and pm. Temperature wise the compressor itself gets quite hot, but by touching the lines it doesn't seem like they are cooling/heating up much more than ambient temperature of the room. The compressor is making a distinct noise, it sounds like its running but there is a bit of a ring to it. Your idea of the reed vale being broken may be the issue. It was maintaining around 63F but as I unplugged and re-plugged it in it now does not cool at all so the problem went from bad to worse almost immediately. I'm scheduled to have a repair person show up sometime next week so I guess I am at their mercy since I don't have the proper tools to do a compressor repair myself. They said they are bringing a compressor along since its a common repair, fingers crossed this is the case.
To the experienced, is this compressor doomed to fail every few years? Seems like the class action lawsuit and peoples posts show that these compressors don't last all that long. I'm guessing I will ride out the new compressor as long as it lasts and then just buy a new fridge as I will be out of the 5 year extended repair window by LG covering the costs.