« Last post by shillion on January 09, 2020, 10:09:33 AM »
I went back to the fridge yesterday, was trying to find out about the lites not working. Found out the deli and crisper lites or the
Vegetable lites were responding to French Door opening and closing. That means the deli lites come on when door was open, and off when the doors were closed. The fresh food compartment fan did not come on all night.So the fridge part was 12°when I got there yesterday. When I tested the lites, the evaporator fan also responded the the door openings. So what happened? I don't know.customer said ice maker was not working,I found new pieces of ice in the ice box.So my new job is to get the lites back to the fresh food compartment.
« Last post by shillion on January 08, 2020, 04:47:37 PM »
I took out the fresh food evaporator cover, defrosted the ice, put the same back, plugged back in.The compressor and freezer fan work. But fresh food compartment lite didn't come on whether door was closed or open, only the deli and crisper lites above the water filter are on. The fan does not run whether French doors are open or closed. What can cause this problem? Please help!
« Last post by Thorning on January 08, 2020, 04:37:19 PM »
I work on all kinds of dryers both gas and electric and am asking serious repair people about how to compare the ratings of a gas unit versus an electric. many of the electrics I work on involve replacing the heating coil due to failed coil wires. Typically these are 5400 watt. What is a gas unit rated at that is comparable in size and performance to the elctric models ?
« Last post by Blaiser on January 08, 2020, 09:33:05 AM »
Did you ever fix the problem?
« Last post by bn880 on January 07, 2020, 03:30:18 PM »
Further to the above, here are some tips on buying safe cartridge fuses for testing or use in your range:
- Buy from a reputable reseller such as Mouser, Arrow, Digikey, Newark, or a REPUTABLE local electrical supply house.
- The price of a fuse will range from $2 to $50 per fuse for a real fuse. You can not buy a genuine safe high amperage cartridge fuse for under $0.50 a piece new (Usually get suspicious under $2 and Extremely suspicious under $1).
- Look for Recognized Certification Marks on the fuse caps. https://www.esasafe.com/electricalproducts/marks A safe fuse MUST have at least one of these marks, let alone checking the details of the meaning of the certification. If a ceramic cartridge fuse of large amperage has no such marks, it is almost entirely guaranteed to be unsafe, and should not be imported to the US or Canada (it is not even legal to sell).
I am attaching pictures of Recognized Certification Marks for components.
I am also attaching a reference picture of safe/proper fuse caps, the middle dark fuse is a BUSSMAN ABC 20A that can be purchased in Home Depot in the USA.
« Last post by MAK on January 07, 2020, 02:06:11 PM »
Thanks for the reply. The belt is intact. I guess I will need to dig deeper. I downloaded the tech manual I found online but it appears a bit limited. Hopefully I can find the belt switch mentioned and thermal fuse.
Interestingly when I called LG for support to get an idea on the repair charges, they quoted me with an initial charge of $125 to have a tech diagnose the problem and then a charge for the replacement part along with another visit charge for the installation of said part. When I mentioned I may look inside to see if it was anything obvious and simple; she said LG does not sell parts to consumers and if I did any repair on the dryer myself that the LG tech if used would refuse to work on the dryer. What??? Its not like I will lose warranty repair service as they only offer a year it is now 2 years out from the purchase. Which reminds me I may want to check my credit card company to see if they offered an extension.
« Last post by scrapiron on January 06, 2020, 10:20:00 PM »
Check for a broken belt, open blower thermal fuse or a defective belt switch.
« Last post by Cassyboo2 on January 06, 2020, 08:32:45 PM »
Did anyone ever find a fix for this? I have the exact same problem with a block of ice forming on the outside rear of the fridge near where the icemaker is located inside. In my case, the fridge stopped producing ice and also won't produce water. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice block and everything worked again for about 1 day and then stopped. I haven't pulled the fridge back out to see if the ice block reformed. Any advice?
« Last post by olyteddy on January 06, 2020, 06:28:18 PM »
Take a look at the thermistors. If the end where the wires come out is grey epoxy I would suspect them. But look at the damper first.
« Last post by cvcman on January 06, 2020, 05:22:00 PM »
Ok we just replaced our 20 yr old whirlpool laundry center with this new one
One thing different is there is no alarm on the dryer when it finished....
But the weird thing is if you set the wash cycle to Normal..and the water temp to warm or even hot,, the water still feels cold... you have to set it to Heavy Duty to feel it hot
So if the wife wants to run a load with warm water how is this done ??