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« Last post by Veasna on October 16, 2021, 02:56:14 PM »
I'd to request the service manual of Magic Chef stove model 31HN-92KX-EL please. Also if possible, let me know where I can find the little drawing diagram in the back of this model unit.
I'm very appreciated
« Last post by Veasna on October 15, 2021, 10:46:23 PM »
I have an old Magic Chef stove model #31HN-92KX-EL that keeps clicking when all switches are in off position. I check the ignition switches and they are all open. What is the next step to repair this clicking problem?
« Last post by mdniswan50 on October 15, 2021, 12:26:04 PM »
This time I replace all 4 the Thermistor-high limit-thermostat-blower thermostat.The heater ohms 19.I was told should not be continuity between blue and yellow.This is a 3 wire heater.What would cause high limit to go out 3 times.
« Last post by Thorning on October 14, 2021, 12:20:49 PM »
This date I discussed this noise problem with a Speed Queen service person at the factory and he suggests the problem is in the Heiix parts under the pulley due to wear .For this reason a new part was introduced and he said it was highly recommended that these new parts be installed. It consists of a new pulley with helix attached and a new helix mating part and a washer. These part numbers are 204486, 38008, and 27015.
« Last post by BobDee on October 14, 2021, 08:06:29 AM »
Hi, I know nothing about appliances and have been dealing this for three months. My wife is ready to throw me and the refrigerator out the window. To me it appears to be an easy fix but no one can figure it out. Here is the story
1- Freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling, called authorized repair, couldn't get to me in time and called someone else. The guy came in and Changed the "converter" gray box at the top (it's a built in) and said let's see if it needs freon). Didn't work
2- called them back, a new guy comes in, cuts a piece of copper tubing from the top, puts in some "leak seal" puts in freon, tests and the freezer and refrigerator cool normal now. But start getting a leak 3 times a day, apparently during the defrost cycle
3- called authorized repair and waited 3 weeks, guy comes in and over the phone with "experts" says there is no water under the fridge as there is dust. No wetness. But water still comes out of the side. So he seals the grommet at the bottom of freezer and says to test. Still leaking three times a day. Called them and they are coming back, have waited two weeks already. They will be here tomorrow hopefully.
No water or excessive ice seen inside freezer. The pan under the unit gets filled with water and I have manually empty it. It looks like a lot of water to evaporate by itself. But I'm not an expert. None of this happened before the addition of the freon. Any help would be appreciated.
« Last post by Baycountry16 on October 14, 2021, 06:07:22 AM »
I have a 2008 Beverage Air curved glass ice cream freezer I recently acquired that will not cool lower than 40 degrees. The model number is CV-330ICAN. I have had it running for 24 hours and the lowest the temp has gone is 39 degrees. Everything seems to be running fine. The compressor and fans are both running. The coils are clean. The person I got the freezer from said he used it about a year ago and everything ran fine. I'm not sure what's going on with it now, but I'm thinking maybe freon is low? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am really trying to get this thing freezer back up and running properly. Thanks!
« Last post by Datagg on October 13, 2021, 09:41:30 AM »
Samsung Model #RF2633BEAESG
Anyone have the issue when ice dispenser won't stop dispensing ice. What I had to do was switch quickly to water mode and it stopped. Went back to ice and it began dispensing again. Back to water and it stopped. Ok, went outside and flipped breaker. Waited 5 minutes turned back on and water on its own began to dispense. Wife quickly opened door to get it to stop. While door opened, switch back to ice, closed door, ice maker began on own again, so switched back to water and ice dispenser stopped.
Water isn't pouring out either. Turned on child lock to prevent hopefully from this thing from working preventing disaster. Sorry for the long post, but what in the heck is going on. Switch stuck? .. Hopefully someone can explain what in the heck is going on and how to fix. Thank you for your time and help.
Took quick video showing issue. https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AEvLC_fOa-z2GCI&cid=AD1607813DBBCD99&id=AD1607813DBBCD99!24855&parId=root&o=OneUp
« Last post by Thorning on October 12, 2021, 08:54:16 PM »
Nothing was noted to be significantly worn or broken when I looked at all of the parts although I did not take it completely apart yet. If this part was replaced by a different type as mentioned should there be some worn or damaged parts ?
« Last post by HerbG on October 12, 2021, 07:59:28 PM »
Your problem sounds like the drive pulley is riding up and over the drive gear (helix) during the spin operation. When the drive pulley is spinning in the agitate direction it drives down the drive gear creating agitation and not applying pressure to the brake assembly. When the pulley spins in the spin direction it rides up the drive gear thus applying pressure to the brake assembly releasing the brake so that the tub can spin. The vertical dimension is critical to the operation of the brake. The drive pulley and drive gear (helix) have been upgraded to the commercial parts (Alliance kit 204486). Hope this helps.
« Last post by paulmars on October 12, 2021, 03:16:43 PM »
What else could be wrong?
10-12° difference between vents and return. This season and last. Never tested previously.
Last season large copper pipe at condenser was 64°, this season it's 76°. Both tested several times on different days. Never tested previously.
yes unit was on cool and fans were spinning when tested. Always waited at least 5 minutes after unit switched on to read temperatures.
This unit was installed in 2001, but is rarely used. It's never been charged since installation. Yes, I live in west central florida, but I use my heater more then the cool. It still cools me fine, but it does take slightly longer to cool the house.
Im affected more by humidity then heat. When Im uncomfortable, I set it to 2 degrees cooler then the ambient at that specific time. I might turn it off before the cycle completes or after it completes. Sometimes I let it cycle on and off a few times. Unless it's very hot and sunny outside, one cycle is enough to make me feel fine for a few hours.
When this unit fails, if i can't fix it myself, I might have to resort to window units.
I been reading a lot of service maintenance info online. Some of the things Ive checked:
no air leaks in duck-work.
vents and return are not blocked.
no fluid leaks.
I washed the condenser coils with foaming coil cleaner.
mtr spins free.
inspected electrical connections.
Duel cap read 38/5ufd and should be 45/5, so i replaced it.
I cant clean the evaporator coils with foam, but the top side looks fine.
Id like to do what i can to make this unit last.
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