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« Last post by sdMark on July 04, 2020, 04:26:42 PM »
Thanks for your reply and especially for the tip about expected voltage. I am confused about the history of the unit.
"Bought 2001, always worked OK, I installed"
Did you move it or what ?
Original owner bought 2001, I bought from him 2013 and moved to my house. So really I can only say it's worked fine since I've owned it. You will have to pull it and check the wiring.
Then check the power across the heating element when it is off but heating.
If it is switching power to the element5 (240 volts), then I would say it is a control board problem.
When I pulled the oven, there are no exposed wires, just 3/4" flexible conduit. It's hard-wired, no plug. I pulled the lower element again and measured voltage across the wires. 236 volts when on, 0 when off. Now I'm wondering if this whole thing is a mistake and it just takes a long time to cool down. How long should an insulated oven take to go from 350 back to under 100 degrees? I tested 1.5 hours this morning...
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« Last post by Thorning on July 04, 2020, 12:18:25 PM »
Has anyone been able to look at my previous entries asking for advice on repair. It appears many of the parts for this unit are no longer available ?
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« Last post by johnboy3 on July 04, 2020, 09:56:22 AM »
Check the freezer temperature by placing a thermometer in the freezer overnight, then check it the first time you open the freezer in the morning. It should be below 5 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is Ok, Turn the water off at refrigerator supply, then disconnect the line going into the valve. Place the end of the line in a bucket then turn the water valve back on. Is there a good flow from the supply tube?
If both of these are Ok, and you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the two coils on the valve It should be in the 150 - 350 ohm range. Check for 120v at each coil, when operating, press the paddle for water for the water side, cycle the icemaker for the icemaker side. If all of these are normal, and still no water or I/M fill, the water line may be frozen behind the dispenser area. It can be thawed by gently warming the back of the dispenser area with a hair dryer from a distance of at least six inches and constantly moving. This may take a half hour before thawing. That plastic will melt easily so be careful! The icemaker fill line may be frozen where it comes through the back of the freezer. Again, be careful with the heat! Good luck!
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« Last post by manden on July 04, 2020, 06:58:55 AM »
I am confused about the history of the unit.
"Bought 2001, always worked OK, I installed"
Did you move it or what ?
You will have to pull it and check the wiring.
Then check the power across the heating element when it is off but heating.
If it is switching power to the element5 (240 volts), then I would say it is a control board problem.
25
« Last post by Zimsjim on July 03, 2020, 08:07:53 PM »
I have an LG washing machine and towards the end of the cycle it starts making a clanking sound. I have taken a video of it below. I know nothing about this stuff so if anyone could give me an idea of what needs fixed or replaced that would be great. Thank you! https://streamable.com/d1900o
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« Last post by stanstr on July 03, 2020, 06:06:26 PM »
We have a GE DSS25KGRBWW fridge that's about 10+ years old and it won't dispense water or make ice.
Six or seven years ago it wouldn't dispense water (ice was ok). I replaced the water inlet valve, but I don't it's likely that both solenoids in the inlet valve stopped/died at the same time. The ice maker dispenses ice we make in ice trays and dump in the ice maker bin.
When you tap the cup switch to get water, you can hear the switch inside click & the light goes on so I'm kinda sure that's ok.
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« Last post by mrcondenser on July 03, 2020, 05:33:50 PM »
put the machine in dry education by setting it on 2 minutes of the normal cycle. if that won't work fill it up until it starts to agitate, that will lock the transmission shaft so it won't spin when you try and take off the bolt.
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« Last post by trae on July 03, 2020, 03:56:56 PM »
there definitely is splashing. i can hear it and feel it against the top of the tub. however, i don't know if there is enough force or if there is any arm rotation. i disconnected the wash arms and sprayed each nozzle with the jet setting on my outdoor hose sprayer. then i removed the sprayer and held the hose up to the inlet on the wash arm. the nozzles appear to be open and the arm did rotate. i'm going to try another cycle in case i knocked some junk out of the wash arm. i'm starting to wonder if the wash arms are just poorly designed because this dishwasher has not cleaned well from the time we bought it.
after restoring the wash arms, i cleaned thoroughly again and ran another cycle. the black dust is starting to show up again and very lightly soiled dishes were not clean. absolutely baffling. the wash arms and the pump are used in multiple dishwasher models
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« Last post by sdMark on July 03, 2020, 02:16:23 PM »
Hi,
Homeowner here. Okay electrical skills, own a multimeter, but no oven repair experience.
I installed a GE JRP15B0WBB electric oven, originally purchased in 2001. It gets very little use and has always worked fine. However after cooking at 450 for half an hour recently, it wouldn't fully shut off. Fan kept running, heat stuck around 350 if I recall.
Testing since then, if I heat it for 5-10 minutes, then shut off, it's still 125-175 or so 45 minutes later and the heating element is too warm to touch.
If I shut off at breaker and let it cool down completely, it does not immediately heat when I turn the breaker back on. So that seems normal, but once I turn it on and off again, it won't fully shut off.
Today I pulled the lower heating element and the control panel. I don't see any signs of fusion/welding/shorting that I have seen mentioned elsewhere. The control panel and clock seem to work fine?
Some photos from today are attached.
Any suggestions on what to test or fix?
Thanks very much,
Mark
San Diego
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« Last post by trae on July 03, 2020, 11:02:59 AM »
definitely filling with enough water and draining multiple times. i'm checking the power to the pump next. the circulation pump does run. i can confirm that. i just don't know if it's running with enough power. the wash arms are not clogged
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