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« Last post by apouchot on March 30, 2020, 05:51:19 PM »
I would like to know how to replace the thermostat of a Beko LSG1545W fridge as it seems defective.
I found the user manual but it does not provide any details on how to dismount the original thermostat from the fridge ceiling, basically I am looking for the service manual instead on how to remove the thermostat.
Anyone can help?
Thanks a lot.
« Last post by shillion on March 30, 2020, 03:38:25 PM »
Thank you very much Dab,your service papers are really useful and are time savers.The stove owners did not pursue with the repair,that's why I was not in a big rush to wait for the reply.Now I have it,I can certainly deal with this stove with confidence.I will talk to them to convince them to get it repaired.Thanks again,Dab.
Check the splines on the axel/shaft and see if they're stripped, or notched. Also install the hub like you would a car Tire, in which when doing the screws do one, then the opposite end ...like a star pattern . Also, use only oem fsp parts. I know the Internet is sodden with cheapo knockoffs, and it really does make a difference ! Usually it's repetitive overloading, and articles left in pockets , like change and jewelery, that get wedged between the tub and the wash plate that causes this to happen !
I've been challenged recently with a jenn-air glass cook top, mod # jec9530ads. My nightmare began when the right front burner , which is a duel burner infinite switch ,went bad . To replace , whirlpool no longer makes the old/existing switch ,but an upgraded infinite switch , which only comes in a kit ( whirlpool kit #10823734) along with a new harness and heating element! ..... this where my nightmare began. I don't know what whirlpool was thinking when they made this kit , but NOTHING matches up ! I had to predrill screw holes in the bottom plate to secure the infinite switch , harness was completely different , vague short instructions,and a completely different element which has no epic sensor, or even a hole for one !!!...in the instructions , it says to reuse old epic sensor if the wiring connection block doesn't match to new harness (which it dont)....nothing in this kit makes any sense (or at least the instructions dont). Trying desperately to see if anyone has had this same problem with this model , or this kit , and how they remedied this Frankenstein problem !
never in my 15 years of repair have I come across such botched confusion !
« Last post by Dash on March 29, 2020, 11:52:38 PM »
Changing the basket drive hub W10528947 on a Whirlpool washer is a common service item but not every 8 months. Usually I change them on machines that are routinely overloaded. Sometimes the big plastic u-clip goes in hard but I haven't noticed anything negative in performance or longevity due to hard insertion force.
« Last post by Dawgs1285 on March 29, 2020, 09:03:24 PM »
I have GE side by side model GSS20IBTGWW. Noticed the fridge running for a longer time then usual, after checking into it I found that have the evaporator coil was frozen up, so I thought it was the defrost system but all the components checked out with a multimeter, including temperature sensors. Also after manually defrosting the system the next morning it was defrosting in its own. A couple days later after what seemed to be normal operation I noticed the fridge kicking on every 15-20 minutes and now many things are freezing on the fridge side. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
« Last post by app1 on March 29, 2020, 06:19:02 PM »
No error codes - that's what makes it wierd
« Last post by Dash on March 29, 2020, 05:19:58 PM »
Asko dishwasher 20.3, art no. 107325171, s/n 073801573458 will run for several minutes and then stop giving an F4 error (water intake fault). If I put the dishwasher into service mode, all functions work properly, water fills, main motor runs, dispenser pops open, water heats, and water pumps out. In fact it would be possible to use the dishwasher and wash dishes if you manually advanced to the next step in service mode.
The service manual says:
"LED L4/Fault code F4, Water intake fault
< 80 pulses within 60 seconds or correct number of pulses is not achieved within 255 seconds. Programme interrupted.
Check: Water supply, flow sensor, inlet valve, wiring."
So far I've wrung out the wiring and it checked okay. I replaced the aqua sensor which I think it what the service manual refers to as the flow sensor. I did not replace the water inlet valve because it has good flow and only two wires going to it. Where are the pulses coming from that the service manual refers to? It seems to me that the computer is good because everything works in manual mode. Any ideas? Should I replace the water inlet valve?
« Last post by Peretz on March 29, 2020, 05:06:33 PM »
Thank you all for the replies! After disassembling the unit, I discovered that the rollers were indeed the culprit. I ordered 2 replacement rear rollers which should arrive on Thursday.
Here this may help.
The guide you posted was very helpful when I was trying to remember which screw went to which part (though I admit I should have been marking screws all along and not just after I made it as far as the duct housing).
« Last post by dab147315 on March 29, 2020, 02:50:11 PM »
Here you go.
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