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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: GFE27GGDAWW Diagnostic service error codes
« Last post by 100 td on July 24, 2021, 05:13:40 AM »
Some of the following may be relevant to you. As dab147315 mentioned earlier, a low functioning fan can cause many problems. Airflow in these fridges is critical, critical in the fact that the right amount of air needs to go to the right places, and be returned, from the right places for the unit to function correctly. Overloading any frostfree fridge causes problems, blocking return air pathways with product, especially when things are pushed over the back of shelves, or shelves are stacked solid, will always cause sub optimal conditions as this can short circuit the airflow. Airflow around the evaporator is also critical, and any air leaks create big problems. I can see a couple of things that may/may not  need rectifying. It appears the cover is missing from the front of the fan housing. There appears to be silicone sealant or is it ice built up on the evap cover near the left air duct. It appears the foam seals are damaged or compressed. Where the aluminum foil pushes against the evaporator each end, it needs to seal, so if the aluminum is permanently dented, It's probably not sealing. One fix would be to buy a new evap cover. If it were my own, I would replace all seals, and you don't need OEM ones, you can generally buy glue backed foam from hardware stores used for  door/window draft seals in various widths and thicknesses. If the evap cover is warped in any way you will need to ensure thicker material is used to ensure a proper seal. You will also need it to be perfectly dry, or use other glue. The aluminum insulation, something could be slipped in behind it to move it forwards perhaps. The same goes for the freezer compartment! If part of the evaporator is not receiving correct airflow, then a few things happen, less refrigerating effect in that evap, uneven ice buildup on the evap, lower suction temps which the thermistors see which don't give a proper indication of the actual condition in the evaporator.
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At the back of the crisper
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How did you go with this, dab147315 could be on the money, but I would have expected to see a low target speed fan fault show up, since they have monitoring? If you haven't changed the fan, you could try a full manual defrost, leave it off for 24 hours doors open, and check all drain tubes are completely clear, then monitor closely and see if the same results occur? (Clear all fault codes first so you are starting afresh)  Also ensure you have a bit of space in the fridge, not too crowded so good airflow everywhere for testing.

The Fan was very noisy so I changed it. It's still loud but does not sound like a bearing has gone.
It seems like ice has also been frozen in the styrofoam so it swelled on the evap cover and where the fan resides so this may be causing excessive fan noise as its pressing on the fan amplifying sounds but no bearing grinding sound.

Since changing the fan it's still loud but consistent. I also notice the fan would be on then sound like it's cutting off but speed back up again for 10 min before going off.

I find after defrost the FF compartment seems like it's taking longer to cool down after a defrost which leads me to think thermistor.

the FF compartment is also set for 1c but it maintains 3 or v degrees c from the external display. I'm not sure if the ambient thermistor controls how the system runs but.
after changing the fan I cleared the error codes the ones below come back.

03 03  FF Temp Exceeds > 50 F/10 c. some times after a defrost it its 4c other times higher.
0506  idk what this means it's in the door board error codes but it's a N/A for explanation

In my mind since the freezer is fine its temp rage is -19 to -12 at lowest if we open it too much -10 defrost does not raise the temp much.

What I notice is the drain pan is dry on the side where the freezer drain tube leads but the FF side is usually half full.

I personally find some of the times the FF section defrosts too much. since during the week we are hardly in the fridge 3 times a day some times it defrosts.
Since changing the fan it defrosts 2 times a day and the fan is on longer.

so I wonder if I have faulty FF thermistors and the high heat limiter maybe toast?
The fridge is not packed to be honest so.

Service manual and my mind/interpretation say if it's set to 1c then the fan should be on until the FF compartment thermister says it's 1c then remain on low speed for cycle defrost. when the FF section gets to maybe 2.5c then the fan can come on to bring it down to temp. if FF section gets to 4c after defrosting which is ok in my mind when it comes out of defrosting FF fan should be on high till it cools down.

The freezer fan is always on no matter what tho.

I also had it in diagnostic mode reading the thermistors and I keep on seeing a 0101 flash in between the readings which is Fz fan feedback when fan should be off but that's not listed in the diagnostic error code read out so idk what that means.

wish I could send a voice not to explain better but let me know what you think and ask what you think you need to also added pics when i changed the fan had to use a hair dryer to remove the evap cover was frozen to the back wall.
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I found a p/n of this deflector and it is W10687846. The folks at Whirlpool were not able to help and I am still trying to figure out how it fits in the shelf area.  Any help would be greatly appreciated
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I have just been given this TOP FREEZER TYPE  fridge and it works very well. When I moved it I took the shelves out and when I went to put them back in place I did not notice there is a large air deflector that I cannot figure out where it goes inside. I am certain it fits in a shelf bracket  in the fridge compartment somehow but the parts page on the computer does not show it at all. It is the width of a shelf and several inches high except at the middle where it forms a kind of air deflector scoop to allow air to go up. CaN ANYONE HELP ME TO FIGURE OUT THE WAY IT IS TO BE INSTALLED ? help ?
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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool fridge transportation
« Last post by Thorning on July 23, 2021, 09:51:35 AM »
We allowed the unit to be in the upright position for about 36 hours before plugging it back into the 110 volt supply. It seems to be working fine and cooling well.
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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: GFE27GGDAWW Diagnostic service error codes
« Last post by 100 td on July 22, 2021, 11:37:29 PM »
How did you go with this, dab147315 could be on the money, but I would have expected to see a low target speed fan fault show up, since they have monitoring? If you haven't changed the fan, you could try a full manual defrost, leave it off for 24 hours doors open, and check all drain tubes are completely clear, then monitor closely and see if the same results occur? (Clear all fault codes first so you are starting afresh)  Also ensure you have a bit of space in the fridge, not too crowded so good airflow everywhere for testing.
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How did you go, did it end up cooling?
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Why was this installed, original fault? Wire to compressor as directed, put power directly to the relay, compressor should start, if so, disconnect and wire to fridge circuit.
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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool fridge transportation
« Last post by 100 td on July 22, 2021, 09:25:32 PM »
A couple of hours should be fine, you are wanting oil to migrate back to dome so it doesn't starve. Biggest problem with horizontal transport, especially if in a trailer, is the compressor jumps out of or breaks it's mounts internally or snaps the high side line.
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