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Dryer Repair / Maytag electric dryer model MEDC300XW0 with s/n M10811076
« Last post by Thorning on April 19, 2021, 08:02:15 AM »
 I was given this dryer for repair with the customer telling me it would not heat or turn the drum. The rear cover was removed and the thermal fuse was checked. It was open and was replaced. The unit was plugged in to the power and the timer set on timed dry.  It started up and was heating properly. The door was opened and it shut off as normal. The door was closed and nothing else was touched but after a minute or so the heating element started glowing red to deliver heat but I had not pushed any control button. The heat continued but no blower  activation unless I rotated the timer knob to the off position  and it stopped heating  . I suspected the timer was the problem and removed it and dismantled it. All of the contacts were examined with no damage or burning  and the timer motor was tested to see if it was sticking or had a broken gear or cam. No problems were noted. Everything was put back together . The timer dial was set to the timed dry position at about 60 minutes. and it worked properly.  i opened the door and everything shut off as expected. I closed the door but did not touch the controls and after about a minute the heating element started glowing  to provide heat but there was no blower motor action.. If I turned the timer dial to the off position  all heat was shut off.    I am looking for advice on this model to see if anyone has had a similar  problem . I will next take the drum out and check for any problems but this start up of the heater without  the blower on or any dial requesting  drying is a strange one  . Can anyone offer any suggestions   ?                                                                                                                                                                                       
12
Miscellaneous Topics / Kenmore Microwave
« Last post by fixer29 on April 18, 2021, 01:00:09 PM »
The numeric buttons and the start button on my microwave touchpad do not work, nor do the auto programed buttons like "Defrost" or "Melt". The display is illuminated and shows the correct time, and the manual programming buttons react to touch, but without the numeric buttons working, the manual functions cannot be programmed or started. The light inside the microwave is also not working. The touchpad and light failed all at once, it was not something that got progressively worse. The door latch is working properly.

Is the problem in the membrane or the control board or...? How can I test the suspect parts?

Thanks.
13
Washer Repair / Re: something missing from agitator parts list
« Last post by HerbG on April 18, 2021, 07:36:27 AM »
The upper part of your agitator assembly is a manual filter. It is designed to be removed, cleaned, and replaced. The collar on yours is chipped away so that it no longer keeps it secure during operation. It needs to be replaced (WP63753) rather expensive unless you can find a used one.
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Dishwasher Repair / GE triton xl, won't drain last cycle only.
« Last post by Tacroy on April 17, 2021, 03:41:47 PM »
Model Number: GSD6200J01BB

I start the dishwasher and it fills, runs, and drains fine (I see the water coming into the disposal, confirmed no water in tub after each drain.) Until the last cycle, where I hear the drain sound, but no water comes out. So I end up with water in the dishwasher each morning.

This happens every time.

If I enter the maintenance mode, I can fill, run and drain no problems. UNLESS I try to manually force a drain immediately after a cycle, in which case it fails... But If I wait 30 minutes and manually force a drain it drains great.

Any thoughts?
15
Washer Repair / something missing from agitator parts list
« Last post by reggoboy on April 17, 2021, 08:04:42 AM »
Hi everyone, I'm new here.

I have a Whirlpool Washer. Model is LA5200XTWO, but some sites appear to use a zero as the last character.

The problem is that there is nothing holding the upper agitator onto the lower agitator. So during the cycle, the upper one comes loose and bangs loudly on the lid.

When you take off the cap and look inside, you see the screw and washer tightly attached to the lower agitator. But you can pull the upper agitator right off. Whatever the washer is supposed to be grabbing is not there.

The parts diagram doesn't show any "dog" or "dog assembly" of any kind:

http://lookup.allbrandonline.com/diagramenlarge/3/0/754669/121640

But it's clear that at least some type of retainer ring is missing. You can see 4 posts where around the hole at the bottom of the upper agitator, adjacent to where the screw is. And there are 4 holes in the other wall of the upper agitator, too. Clearly, something is supposed to snap in there and act as the retaining ring that the screw would hold onto, but nothing is there.

Parts stores want me to buy the lower or upper agitators. But I already have those. I just need this retaining ring or whatever is missing, which is probably a lot cheaper than $180.

Can you please help?

Thanks!
16
Your leak is likely from the tub ring gasket. Now, the gasket probably isn't faulty, but your machine SHOULD completely drain before spinning. This is called neutral drain. Once the pressure switch signals to the timer that the tub is empty of water, the timer should pause and then should spin. Missing neutral drain puts excess strain on your clutch, which will cause premature failure. Your transmission/gearcase SHOULD be in neutral until the timer pauses. If it does not, your transmission/gearcase is faulty. What's happening is that when the washer spins full of water, the centrifugal force causes the water to come over the top of the tub, and the tub ring gasket isn't made to hold that back, which is where your water is coming from.
17
Thanks for letting me know. Since then I've tried hard starting the compressor but same results. No start just pulls about 3.5 amps. The motor is jammed or something.
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: KitchenAid KUDK03CTSS0 Start/resume lights blinking
« Last post by Daveosee on April 16, 2021, 10:09:19 AM »
So, I'm happy to report that I (finally) solved this problem.  I first replaced the door latch, thinking it wasn't closing properly, but no change - still wouldn't advance past Wash cycle. I then replaced the control board - it worked! You can't imagine how happy I was when I started a wash cycle and watched it finally advance to the Dry cycle.  O0

I had replaced the thermal fuse once before, 2 years ago, but had nothing to do with this problem - I believe the drain got clogged and caused it to overheat.

Good luck!
19
This is an oddball set up from the norm and explaining the changeover would go into great detail. Especially if your not experienced
20
I would never recommend by passing anything. I make all my relay an overload protector set ups from scratch. I use a 3 terminal compressor relay with a 1 terminal ol protector and wire in run capacitor when applicable. If I suspected this component was faulty I would yank all the wires off of it and do my own set up.
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