« Last post by Crew Chief on September 21, 2021, 07:13:40 PM »
After looking at these service and training slides it looks like the deli drawer control board controls the deli damper and fan based off the reading that the deli drawer thermistor registers. Since it seams like the freezing problem is coming from the deli drawer could the deli control board be the issue? Everything in the deli drawer is frozen solid.. and everything in the drawer and shelf above it will freeze as well.
« Last post by Crew Chief on September 21, 2021, 06:00:03 PM »
Last week my fridge stopped cooling. After looking into it I found the evaporator fan was seized. I replaced the fan and everything seemed good.
The next morning the water dispenser in the door was frozen and everything in the bottom drawer and lower shelf was froze. The only stuff that was still liquid was on the very top shelf. I read it could be a thermistor or a stuck damper for the fresh food drawer. I ordered a new damper assembly that comes with its own little evaporator fan. I also bought a thermoster.
Today I found out there are three thermistors, one on the center top ceiling, one in the fresh food drawer, and one on the evaporator line. I put the new one in ice water and measured around 13.5 k ohms. The fresh food drawer and top thermistor was within 1 k ohm, the one on the evaporator line was about 2 k ohms higher. Since I had a new one I changed the evaporator line thermistor since it was the most off. I also installed the new fresh food drawer damper and fan and plugged it in. After about 3 or 4 hours of running the display on the door said inside temp was 50 but the cup of water I placed on the bottom shelf was already starting to get surface ice on it.
Has anyone seen this or know what it could be? I'm thinking I could just replace the other 2 thermistors since they are cheap and see if it changes anything. When I picked up my fan to replace the original siezed one there was another guy there saying he just had the same thing happen to his ge fridge... he said fridge trying to turn the stuck fan had messed up his control bard and caused the LED lights to dim, so he had to replace that as well. Is a bad control board a possibility here? Or anything else that I should check? I am not a appliance tech so anything from anyone with experience would be helpful.
« Last post by CaptOnH2O on September 21, 2021, 03:15:20 PM »
Hi all. I've got a used Danby wine cooler (dwc283bls) that turns on but doesn't cool.
A - Digital thermometers display set temp but fridge won't cool.
B - There's also a clicking sound every few minutes, I assume from the thermal protector.
C - Dividing shelf blows air up & down, but back-wall fan in upper part of cabinet doesn't run.
Things I tried:
1 - Checked the relay and it looks intact inside (whole ceramic/metal disk). But it does get warm quickly after turning on.
2 - Bypassed the relay and thermal protector by plugging wires directly into Common and Run terminals, but compressor won't start.
3 - Left relay in place and bypassed thermal protector. Compressor won't start.
4 - Reversed polarity without relay - Compressor won't start.
5 - Reversed polarity with relay in place - Compressor seems to run, but fridge won't cool (not surprised)
I have a multimeter but don't know how to check the running amps. Can anyone help me figure out if this can be fixed? Thanks!
« Last post by SauceMan on September 21, 2021, 01:07:17 PM »
I'm trying to fix the ice maker in my freezer not producing any ice. I'm showing low voltage (around 9VAC) in the icemaker and around 7.45 kohms for the motor and 74 ohms for the heater. When I remove the icemaker (and remove the wiring harness) and test the voltage on the 4 pins in the freezer, I also show a low, 9VAC or so voltage, whether or not I press the freezer drawer switch. Shouldn't there be 120V on a pair of those pins?
I have two questions:
1. Does anyone know what the 4 pins are on the freezer side? Should 2 of them read 120VAC?
2. Is there a fuse or something on the freeze I may have tripped that is causing only 9 or so volts to appear there?
I'm trying to find out if the problem somewhere in the icemaker, the freezer, or both before I start ordering parts.
« Last post by clman on September 21, 2021, 12:50:14 PM »
Did you figure out what was wrong ?
« Last post by markallie on September 18, 2021, 05:39:23 PM »
The light, fan and turntable all come on. Apparently not the microwave tube/diode as it didn't heat the test glass of water I put in before I opened the door slightly to initiate a test.
« Last post by 100 td on September 17, 2021, 07:42:38 PM »
but now started up after the door was opened.........I tested to see if it was injecting microwaves into the chamber but it was not.
So it's not "Starting up" per se, but maybe the light is coming on or the fan is coming on?
« Last post by markallie on September 17, 2021, 12:08:29 PM »
I have had a GE PEB1590SM1SS for many years. I ran OK for most of the years. I noticed a few years ago that when you pushed the door release "button" the microwave would start up half way through the push and then shut off before one depressed the button all the way. Yesterday a very potentially dangerous thing happened. It no longer started up half way through the push but now started up after the door was opened. The obvious danger was easily avoided by keeping the door barely open. I tested to see if it was injecting microwaves into the chamber but it was not. Needless to say it is no longer available for anyone to use. It seems from the various help sites that there are 2 possible microswitches that could cause this. A DOOR INTERLOCK SWITCH and a MONITER SWITCH. I haven't seen the schematic yet so I am not sure which one it could be. Perhaps both. Does anyone have an educated guess on which switch it could be.
What a terrible failure mode. How could anyone design a system that turns on when the door opens. All it takes is opening the door nothing else.
« Last post by dnicklaw on September 17, 2021, 09:06:09 AM »
My 13 year old Frigidaire electric wall oven (model number FFEW2725LBB) threw a code F10 recently - runaway heating. I let it cool down and tried again but same code came up. Bottom element is not turning on and top element stays red hot after operating temperature is reached. I can probably fix this with a you tube video, but I'm hoping someone can tell me what parts I need just from my description of the symptoms. Sensor probe, bottom element, new board? Thanks!
« Last post by jczarn on September 16, 2021, 01:16:14 PM »
Appreciate the advice!
There is some rust where the inner tub apparently gouged the outer tub at some point in the past, but I didn't notice any holes yet.
I was able to order an OEM top gasket inexpensively on ebay, so we'll sell how that works.