« Last post by Thorning on November 23, 2020, 02:08:22 PM »
You should plan on removing the front cover to best access the heating element. Disconnect the power from the wall plug before you attempt to do any such measurement. With the wires disconnected from the terminals of the heating element use your meter to check for continuity of this heater. It should be a few ohms . If the meter shows no action you likely have an open wire in the heater coil and it will need to be replaced. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO ANY MEASUREMENTS WITH THE UNIT PLUGGED NTO THE WALL OUTLET
« Last post by Thorning on November 23, 2020, 12:19:32 PM »
I was just given this washer for possible repair . I cant find anything wrong with it but noted that the cycle time for a typical cycle is fairly long as compared to my Speed Queen. Also the vertical support tube for the softener Dispenser in the wash tub appears to be loose at the base but I dont see any thing broken or any way to tighten it up. Can anyone shed a little light on this machine for me ? The model number of this machine is MVWC415EW0
« Last post by shillion on November 23, 2020, 10:39:43 AM »
I forgot to mention, this Dw would fill and drain, but would not wash, that means no splashing, even at diagnostic sequence. Again, there is no attachment allowance, so I cannot upload some diagrams.
« Last post by shillion on November 23, 2020, 10:33:42 AM »
It won't splash(won't wash) even with expensive new circulation pump. I tried to use test cord to supply 120 volt to motor terminals, it still did not run. What volt should go to the control terminals? It is a variable speed motor.Even at diagnostic, the wash motor was not going. Please help. I cannot upload the partial diagram. There is no provision for attachments. I will try to upload later.
« Last post by shillion on November 23, 2020, 10:22:01 AM »
I tried to upload the wiring diagram, but the attachment icon is not here. So I have to start a new post.
« Last post by manden on November 23, 2020, 06:12:57 AM »
Do you have the wiring diagram?
First thing to check is that you are getting 240 volts to the unit.
Check at the terminal strip for 240 volts between L1 (black) and L2 (red).
Be careful as you are messing with 240 volts which is lethal.
The heater elements are usually in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Also there is usually a hi-limit thermostat and thermal cutoff (fuse) on the heater. They both should be 0 ohms.
Cannot say what timer contacts are involved without a wiring diagram.
Also the centrifugal switch on the motor must activate for there to be heat.
« Last post by Samiam23 on November 23, 2020, 05:22:14 AM »
Ge dryer dcl333ea0ww service tech (schematic diagram) sheet needed plz help
« Last post by shillion on November 23, 2020, 03:13:31 AM »
I got the new circulation pump, but the motor still does run, even on diagnostic testing. I up load the picture of the wash motor, may be the experienced tech can give me some hints to make the motor run. Was it the missing DC voltage causing the trouble?
Still no luck. New (used) motor does the same as the original motor (runs in 1 second spurts). I even tried swapping the optical soil sensor, and disconnecting the secondary (smaller 3 grey wires) harness to troubleshoot. When the grey-wire harness is disconnected, it doesnít run at all.
Unfortunately the information in the (similar model) Tech Sheet W10914073A I downloaded from this site does not quite match the required information that I need for this control board model W10473198, so itís missing code explanations (4-1 code), and it talks about 3-phase motor tests, which this doesnít appear to be since there are only two power wires to this modelís motor (but three power wires to other KitchenAid dishwasher motors I have in the shop repair queue.
Unless... that's what the 3 grey wires, and on-board PCB circuit board are for?? To convert the single phase power to 3-phase power for the motor? If so, why do some models use two (blue) power wires, while other models use three??
« Last post by ron3033 on November 22, 2020, 06:56:03 PM »
Kenmore electric dryer 110 7308622 WOZ probably 1974 era, but has worked great.
No heat all of sudden. I suspect the element is out. How do I determine that it is the element and not an issue with the timer or something else? I would not want to order new element, and still have no heat. How do I test to be sure?
Thanks, lots of wet clothes.