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« Last post by Eastie on Today at 01:39:16 AM »
Sorry to add to this what are the wires coming out of control board I will jump them to send correct voltage to compressor to make sure it's the board.
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« Last post by Eastie on Today at 01:09:54 AM »
Make: whirlpool
Model: 6gx0fhdxxy0
Hi there over past year my fridge has been playing up. Started by the fridge not being cool enough but freezer fine. Of course this happened to the wife whilst I was away, fridge guy came out said the defrost timer was most likely the issue as the condenser was frosted up in the freezer. He mentioned this model has a control board for everything and that's probably buggered. Turned fridge off to defrost and fridge came back fine. Worked a charm for months then 1 day everything in fridge warm again look in freezer yep coils frozen again. Defrosted them and fridge good again. Bought another fridge in the mean time, put this out out the back and left it. Recently thought I'll fix it. Turned it on and the compressor or fan won't turn on. Fridge blows warmish air freezer the same. Got a multimeter out and voltage at the compressor was 1.3vac the compressor is ment to be 220-240vac (what's written on it) pulled the control board out and looked for obvious damage but nothing is burnt out. Any ideas as to what to change before I bite the bullet and buy a new control board for a few 100...?
Cheers
Shane
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« Last post by Pharquart on September 18, 2018, 04:15:38 PM »
Thanks so much for the advice! I had thought it was the CCU and have one on order, but based on your experience I dug deeper to pull out the motor control unit. Looked fine, smelled fine. But when I pulled the board out from its white box, I found the (almost literal) smoking gun. Unfortunately, the MCU is the expensive part. But now I have one of those on order as well.
The tech document says that the door switch can affect the MCU communications. But maybe it should say that the MCU can affect the door switch!
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« Last post by clw on September 18, 2018, 11:21:53 AM »
 I think you nailed it. The plastic (GRRR) drive hub was stripped. New part will go in tonight. The washplate was a bear to remove.  Thinking I should dab a bit of silicone grease on the splines for next time. Thanks for the advice.
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« Last post by Tudy on September 18, 2018, 09:43:29 AM »
Hi,
So I ordered a new genuine part (door lock). Same resistance values (166 ohms). That was not the problem.
My diagnostic would keep hanging in C00. After removing and checking the harnesses between the CCU & MCU, when I re-run C00 it was able to start the drain pump (once) in the C00, but not again.
In the end it was the MCU. I had to replace the MCU board and could see burn marks on the back of it. If you carefully remove the MCU unit and take the board out of the white plastic case, you may be able to see damage on the back.
A tech at a local parts store told me the CCU is almost never at fault, but the MCUs fail on these machines. He said it's weird, because C00 shouldn't have anything to do with the MCU. At least for me this fixed it.
(I have not looked at the F5 error you got, so not sure if same issue).
Good luck.
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« Last post by dab147315 on September 18, 2018, 08:41:35 AM »
Models:
GDF510, GDF520, ADT521, GDT530, GDF540, GDT550, GDF570, DDT575, GDT580. GDT720, GDT740, PDT750, CDT725, PDT760, CDT765, ZDT800 and ZDT870
This Training Bulletin will aid technicians in diagnosing water leaks from the door and tub gasket area of the 2012 Plastic Tub and 2013 Stainless Steel Tub Dishwashers. Leaks can be caused by poor installation, improper use, poorly installed or damaged tub gasket, inner door components and improperly working wash system. All of the above are detailed in this bulletin.
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« Last post by shillion on September 18, 2018, 04:56:55 AM »
My customer days she was only using the top burners when this code displayed.I think it's to do with the touch pad.I cannot find the diagnostic paper to inform.please help.
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« Last post by Pharquart on September 17, 2018, 09:35:10 PM »
I am very interested in the answer to this question! I have a Whirlpool Duet WFW86HEBW washer that is having door lock/unlock problems as well. F6E2 originally, then F5E2 errors. I can hear the CCU click, but the lock won't engage, or has difficulty disengaging. Like yours, my door latch coil has 165 ohms each side instead of the 50-74 specified. I ordered another door lock (used, exact same part number printed on the side) and it had the exact same 165 ohms each side. The new part doesn't work, either. Diagnostics won't make it through C00.
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« Last post by Matzie66 on September 17, 2018, 09:15:29 PM »
hi
Fridge is a LG#795.73133.410. Compressor & condenser fan are running but not freezer fan.Compressor is warm to touch but I,m thinking there
should be frost buildup on back panel of freezer section but there isn,t.
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« Last post by p3096774 on September 17, 2018, 07:52:59 PM »
So just an update for the board ... you actually only need to pop the top lid back by about 2 inches to get a low profile ratchet screwdriver to get access to that single, lonely, only screw behind the control panel. I did this with the dryer still stacked and slid it back only 2 inches and was able to get to the screw. That was a relief!
The thing I had a hard time with was getting the boot retaining spring back on ... no one seems to sell those wide range spring clip tools ... I'll have to make one. It's a simple looking tool, but you need jaw spread of 4 inches or so in between the eyelets of the coil spring that adds tension to the wire hoop that keeps the boot in place.
Anyway, much like this forum predicted, my counterbalance weight also fell off. Unfortunately, one of the male posts had shorn off! The far left one. The posts are split into four slices so to say, so for that post, you can't even put the screw back because of the sheared off male mount. This design ... I dunno, maybe there is a high-cycle reason it was designed like that, but it escapes me. I used some epoxy and bolted the other three back in with washers.
While I did add the washers, they don't really do much good. I suppose they'll do a little bit of improvement and prevent the weight from walking off the mounts again, but as was evidenced by my counterbalance, when part of the expanding tabs break off, the whole bolt-washer-tab would go with it. Now I think the forces will be transferred to the mounts if the weight can't move and eventually those mounts will fracture, just like the other one did.
Also, that part is like an entire washer drum surround ... looks like a major PITA to replace. Such horrible design here. I think it might be worth a class action for everyone suffering these design defects. Perhaps it is a loading design, a cyclic design, but I could also see that there is a lot of expansion/shrinkage from temperature changes and perhaps that polymer they selected doesn't do well and that leads to failure. Whatever, this is a horrible design, but it's pretty easy to tear into and get access if you follow the YouTube directions.
Good luck everyone.
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