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Update!

Internet points to testing the oven igniter w a multimeter.

I borrowed my roommateís multimeter last night and watched a YouTube video and tried it out in the wall - set it to 200 v and put the leads in the wall socket and it read 120 v...until I turned the dial to see what happened on other settings on the multimeter. Then it started giving me strange readings. When I set it back to 200 v the multimeter now read a solid 1. I talked to my roommate this morning and he suggested that I blew the fuse on the multimeter when I turned the knob to many different settings with the leads plugged into a live wall outlet. Iím obviously new to multimeters. So I guess I need a new fuse for the multimeter now except that we Oppened the multimeter to look at the fuse and it didnít seem obviously burnt. I went ahead and ordered a new igniter off amazon for $17 (internet makes it seem like this is probably the problem) and figure I will try to get a working multimeter to test the original igniter before I actually do the repair. Maybe Iíll bring the igniter into work tomorrow to use their multimeter.
 

thank you,
2
Hi, looks like there've been no replies in a while.
Those GE dishwashers only run one level at a time, so seeing only the bottom arm running for a few min. is normal.
As for the motor, it sounds like maybe it's bearings are failing. Or its electrically dying.
I imagine you replaced it already.
3
Hi Blaiser,

I'm sorry, I can't get the photos to load clearly.

Thank you!

Today's update:

Sorry for all the details.  The really important question is in the middle of this.

Motor switch pins 1 & 10 = 0 ohms. 

When I pulled the cover off I can see the contact pads separated.


Lid switch reads 0 ohms, open, 0 ohms, open - with opening and closing of the lid. 

Opened the motor switch:  Burnished all the internal contact pads.  Burnished all the external wire terminal blades. 

This photo was before I did that.





What is the small switch right behind the motor switch?  The disconnected white wire goes to it.




After I cleaned all that; the first time I ran it, when it went into Spin, It acted up, started slowly, click click click, and stopped.  Apparently I used too small a Lid Switch jumper wire and it melted!   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFRT-_qVpt8


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=003B-B8pHRg


I replaced that Lid Switch jumper with a thicker gauge wire, have run the washer 5 times, and it has run beautifully ever since.


The lid switch measures 0 ohms when closed. 
I was surprised how much current goes through it (because of how the thinner jumper melted).

Is there any way the lid switch is my problem?  Maybe it measures 0 ohms with no current on it - but has a higher resistance when the normal operating current goes through it.  That is my basic question.


Other notes and questions:

My wiring diagram shows the Speed Switch goes through the Centrifugal Switch.  Does the Start Spin mode go through the Speed Switch? 
Is it a player in this game?


I can see plastic from my brand new clutch assembly all over the top of my new transmission, and also flying in the air when it goes into spin.  Why?



The machine has a terrible out of balance, even when there is nothing in it.  I removed and rotated the agitator 180* and there is no difference. 
I removed the agitator and ran the spin cycle and it is also out of balance - just not as severe.
Is something else worn out?  Or is it this transmission?  Or, is this okay?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GG4u-ptvxFs


Thank you again for all your help. 

Rick
4
Hereís the FIX !! F71 Error and SD Suds Error - Washer will not finish its cycle - Diagnostic cycle will not advance through all the diagnostic Cycles - Fixed!!


Ran diagnostics one more time with C8 stalling in itís position. So I decided to pop off the agitator and hub and double check the hub and it was very tough to get the hub off once I got it off I noticed the inner lower portion of the hub was worn and partially stripped So I decided since I replace the inner tub seal and bearings with gasket kit I would replace the hub assembly with part number W10820039 once I replaced it with the new Hub BINGO everything worked perfectly.


The computer board senses the RPM of the drum and if it doesnít catch up to speed it will continue to pulse the agitator when in reality the lower basket hub is stripped and cannot grip the agitator or basket  to allow it to get up to full speed spin. A dead giveaway would be the basket and agitator are actually spinning in a opposite directions. And the agitator is actually pulsing instead of agitating - hope this solves a lot of headaches!



5
Washer Repair / Re: GE Top Load washer squeaky noise during agitation
« Last post by Blaiser on Today at 05:48:28 AM »
Sounds like your bearing is drying up in transmission, Iím willing to bet your starting to have a small leak thatís dripping on your bearing and drying it out. Take Front Panel off and look for water stains or rust developing on transmission shaft. Let us know what you find!
6
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Older GE ZET1058SF3SS
« Last post by Methogod on November 18, 2019, 11:54:41 PM »
Top oven has no bake and no convection bake but Broil works.

Anything beside both elements being bad? does the broil have a different board? sensor or tstat?

Thing weighs a ton wanted to have all parts on hand for one time repair.


thanks,
7
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: GE oven - range works but oven does not
« Last post by BartGojjer on November 18, 2019, 09:43:05 PM »
Sorry guys! GE Model # JGBS22BEH3CT

Thank you for any advice!
8
Great to hear! Good luck to us! :)
9
Washer Repair / Whirlpool Cabrio WTW8500BW0 - acting weird
« Last post by Blaiser on November 18, 2019, 06:13:33 PM »
Iím working on a Whirlpool Cabrio Washer WTW8500BW0 - Original problem was washer stays stuck on drain cycle and stalled. Went to house ran diagnostics with only F71 error code/SD error. Basket would not float so I 1st replaced RPS Sensor no luck. Drain pump drains water with no issues so I decided to replace the center shaft with tub seal kit. When removing the tub the tub did not slide out on center tub shaft I had to beat the shaft out of tub because it was partially rusted and binding to shaft. Replace tub seal, bearings and shaft in the kit. Tub slides and floats as normal but now after running diagnostics the washer goes thru C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C7 but gets stuck on C8


C8 = tech sheet says ďDrain to basket engaged plus timed drain for 10 seconds. ďBESTĒ LED ON. If water is not draining go to Manual: Pump test page 2.  If basket does not engage determine cause of friction.  The washer will not advance past C8 automatically unless I manually advance it by Pressing the membrane button used to get it into diagnostics.


I ran diagnostics again with no errors and it stalls at position C8 - I also put the washer in speed wash and washer locks up in pause mode at the 15 minute mark left on the cycle.  Any technician out there ever have this issue and if so how to correct the problem  could use your input thank you !
10
Hi Guys!

Need a service manual for Kenmore (Frigidaire) wall oven 790.42003605.  User's getting "err" code, in her words, when "I turn the oven on or after it has been on for awhile, especially at temps over 375ļ.  It turns itself oof when this error happens. The bottom oven seems to work fine."

Sounds like control bd issue. 

Thoughts?

Thx!
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