« Last post by Thorning on Today at 09:14:28 AM »
Today I took apart a newer Speed Queen gas dryer which was about 3 years old. It was very clean and ran well but had the same problem as I noted earlier. The seam of the drum has a slight dimple at the weld joint which makes the very slight noise when it passes over the rollers. This is a negative item in an otherwise excellent design dryer that will last for many many years. Has anyone tried to correct this problem ?
« Last post by Thorning on Today at 09:07:46 AM »
The timer problem has nothing to do with the drain pump problem and needs to be looked at it as a separate situation.
« Last post by mookie3333 on April 20, 2021, 08:17:07 PM »
Today I finally drained the tub using a mini submersible pump. Disconnected everything, tilt back, and notice that the drain belt has jumped off, and the drive belt is pretty eaten up as well. Drain pulley had come off the shaft, when I pressed it back on and tried to spin, it didn't move. When I took it apart, found my kids sock stuck in the pump. After removal, the pump still doesn't spin too smoothly, so I think I'll just replace the pump, as well as the two belts and see how it goes. Hope that's somehow tied to the issue where the timer overruns "off", if it's not, I don't know how that could happen the same time as this snapped belt/pump issue (coincidence??) Thanks guys, I'll report back.
« Last post by Thorning on April 20, 2021, 06:32:48 AM »
That machine sounds like the older 2 belt design which was in its time a very good reliable unit. The drain pump may be worn out or has something stuck inside it causing the belt to slip. The timer may have a worn motor drive gear. They are made of plastic and can be dismantled to inspect for problems. If that is the problem you may be able to find a replacement timer on E Bay. I have several old ones also.
« Last post by aftp on April 19, 2021, 11:33:40 PM »
I have a 23 year old Maytag MTB2156BEB that has been a great refrigerator.
Currently it has been having trouble maintaining cold in the freezer, it will fluctuate between 5deg and 25deg. Refrigerator will hold 40deg. It is also frosting up and when I've removed the rear freezer panel, I observe the heat exchanged was completely frosted over.
So far I have:
1. Tested the defrost timer by manually advancing it and it clicks and enters defrost cycle. I've also timed it and it is cycling as appropriate (10 hours cooling, 21 minutes defrost -- roughly)
2. Removed defrost timer and tested with DMM, it correctly shows open/closed on relevant pins when in cooling/defrost cycle
3. Removed freezer back panel and tested continuity of defrost heating element, tested OK for continuity
4. Removed freezer thermostat and tested for continuity at 0deg (cooled in my basement freezer) and at >50deg (using hair dryer). Continuity checks OK on open/closed as appropriate on both tests.
5. Evaporator coils are free of major dust
I don't want to give up on this unit, but I'm not sure where to look next. Any suggestions?
« Last post by Thorning on April 19, 2021, 04:18:27 PM »
I will recheck that aspect but so far that is not a factor. When the timer is set to the ENERGY PREFERRED position it does not cause the problem
« Last post by Draymc48 on April 19, 2021, 03:04:43 PM »
I would check to make sure the heater isn't shorted to ground. I've seen them do that, and element will glow red with no input
« Last post by mookie3333 on April 19, 2021, 02:30:56 PM »
I have an old Maytag A612 (I think.. nameplate is all scratched up, I also see 745G on there) top loading washer, and recently have noticed a burning rubber smell when the barrel is on spin cycle. At the same time, I also noticed two other strange symptoms. (1) The barrel never drains, and (2) on the timer, it shoots past the "off" scenario and continues into the cycle on the other side of the knob. Does anyone have a parts diagram for the machine? Also, any idea what the problem could be? I thought maybe the drive belt is worn/loose, but does that also operate the drain pump?
« Last post by Arkini on April 19, 2021, 01:41:06 PM »
This is a double door frig. Left and right open doors.
2 weeks ago. My drain plug was iced out and building at my bottom of the inside wall. I used hot water to pour only at the drain hole and used a shower towel to catch water. After the plug was cleared, the My frig was not starting up. All the lights were on, but the front ice/main temperature panel was dark. The ice maker worked. I disconnected the power source and traced it to the power line and disconnected the plug and reconnected on the back opposite the compressor. The frig turned back alive.
2nd problem, the ice crusher only spitted out crushed ice, so I disconnected the power. I dissembled the ice cube crush/whole regulator and add oil to it. It was iced up. The regulator works now but frig wont buzz or power-up.
« Last post by Thorning on April 19, 2021, 11:22:49 AM »
For what ever dumb reason ,I did not take the blower duct off the back of the unit when I started on this job. When I took it off I found it was almost completely clogged with dirt and lint. After I cleaned it out the air flow was restored to the proper level. I still have the situation where the heater is on when I dont believe it should be . I dont know if I will replace all the sensor parts yet or not but still looking for advice.