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1
Washer Repair / Frigidaire FWT647GHS0 won't spin
« Last post by troy rocks on Today at 10:50:58 PM »
I have a Frigidaire FWT647GHS0 that won't spin during wash or spin cycle.  All other aspects seem to work fine.  Symptom popped up just before I replaced the shock absorbers (now complete).  Tried to follow the Tech Sheet and stopped at checking voltage to the motor.  Any help for this newb would be greatly appreciated.
2
As the subject states, the door of the oven gets very hot when the oven is in use. I performed a minor repair over the weekend which involved taking the door apart to locate screws that fell out from the handle. I put everything back together as it was before and when I've used the oven these past few days it gets really hot to the touch. Not warm and okay but hot and borderline ready to burn you.

I can't figure out where the issue is. The door is held together by two screws at the top. When you take those apart the door separates and you can see the insulation. I didn't add or remove anything to the door yet I can't seem to figure out why it's getting hot like it is. The seal on the door is intact and shows no signs of damage.

Any ideas or anything I can check to figure out why the door is getting so hot?
3
Dryer functions normally when CASUAL cycle is selected. Depending on load size, time to complete estimate increases several times, as expected, until cloths are dry. When NORMAL cycle is selected, dryer heats for about 2 minutes, I get a warning chime, The Flow Sense indicator comes on, and machine goes into cool down mode. It does the same thing during the 2 minute Install Test. It will also do this on TIMED cycle with 40 minutes/medium heat level selected. It happens even with the dryer vented into the open room. The default heat level for NORMAL is medium, for CASUAL it's low. I tested the thermistor (using hot water) from 75f to 175f and resistance values are spot on. I confirmed the N85 thermostat is closed circuit (0 ohms) to at least 175f. I can find no wiring, connector or pin problems. I replaced the main board and the problem continues. I removed the blower and confirmed there are no obstructions in the internal ducts. From what I've read there is no actual vent pressure sensor. Instead, the control unit indicates a flow restriction if it determines that the temp has increased too rapidly. Could this be a bad heater thermostat?
4
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Gas Range Igniter
« Last post by dab147315 on Today at 04:00:57 PM »
Model Number to!
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Gas Range Igniter
« Last post by husadee on Today at 03:48:04 PM »
Cool, thanks.  I will do that this evening.
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Gas Range Igniter
« Last post by johnboy3 on Today at 03:35:12 PM »
If you post a picture of the burner, I can probably tell you what to do!
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Gas Range Igniter
« Last post by husadee on Today at 12:25:39 PM »
One of our most often used burner has a sometime working sometime not working igniter.  Could someone recommend the common problem that it could be?  I am guessing that I have to change the tip or the line and the tip.  Thanks.
8
The "Master" or 2 plug LED board is located in the roof of the refrigerator compartment. This is the board that contains the DC power supply that provides the voltage to all of the LED boards. Most likely need a new 2 plug board. Part # W10515058
9
Hello, I have been looking for a 7-segment LED to change to repair my Kitchen Aid KBMS1454RSS microwave.  The unit is functioning but the display has lost most of its lights.  From reading around, it is probably the display that went bad not the controller but if anyone has better insight then please let me know (would be appreciated really).  The OEM part number is W10124269 but from the look of it, it is a straight LED soldered onto the simple PCB Back.  I have some basic soldering skill which I could try to use.  The new part is around $100 or so but I figure the LED is no more than $5 or $10 and the current PCB and cable is probably still good.

I am looking for the LED like in the link here LED Picture.  If anyone know what it is called exactly or how to find it then please help let me know.  Thanks.
10
You have to test voltage at each light. One is master and rest are slaves. Maybe someone can provide voltage specs. I only have seen it once and it was the master. Not a cheap light either!!!
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