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1
Dryer Repair / drum seal kenmore
« Last post by ron3033 on Today at 09:57:53 AM »
Kenmore 11073086622  about 1972 vintage

How do I determine if the rear drum seal is worn out?  I am not sure how it looks when new.   
Also I assume it would be wise to replace the seal at lint trap oval and where the blower fan motor is in the back of the dryer.  Can household foam weather stripping work?  Or is the foam special?

Thanks
ron3033
 :thanks:
2
Dishwasher Repair / Re: Cleaning food chunks out of spray arms?
« Last post by manden on Today at 06:13:22 AM »
Tweezers.
Food should be wet so the bits are flaxible.
3
Dishwasher Repair / Re: Cleaning food chunks out of spray arms?
« Last post by tagarman on October 22, 2020, 07:50:26 PM »
I just recently had the same issue with a Kitchen Aid dishwasher.  First I took off the wash arm and tried to wash out the food partials after poking them with a paper clip in the kitchen sink but it seems the water just made them stick inside and that did not work at all.  I finally was able to get them clean by using a compressor that my customer had in the garage and blew them out.  It seems the compressed air dried the food and then it was able to be blown out.  We blew through all the little wash arm holes and the stuff shot out the big hole in the middle where it mounts on the pump.  Try that and see if it work.
4
Washer Repair / Kenmore rinse/drain
« Last post by Jayber on October 22, 2020, 03:15:15 PM »
Model : 110.25132411
I've ran diagnostics and get no codes.
I've checked splutch cam.
Replaced shift actuator.

Sometimes drain pump works sometimes hums.  Motor agitator works fine but sometimes motor hums while spin cycle.  Motor windings test good, capacitor tests good, and pump motor ohms out good.  I started the spin cycle and test voltage at capacitor connector and only get 3vac.  Should I assume the control board is bad?
5
Dishwasher Repair / Cleaning food chunks out of spray arms?
« Last post by Calab on October 22, 2020, 03:09:17 PM »
Seems like a silly question, but somehow chunks of food have gotten past the filter in my dishwasher and are plugging up the holes in my spray arms. This results in some nasty dishes at the end of the cleaning cycle.

I can use a toothpick and poke at the holes, but that usually just pushes the food back into the arm, where it will come back to plug up the holes again.

I don't see any way to disassemble the spray arms, so how does one clear out the food chunks from inside the arms?

FWIW, it looks like bits of bean sprouts plugging up the holes. Is there anything that will dissolve organic matter in the spray arms and not damage the plastic, or metal arms?

This is on a KitchenAid KDTE204DBL0
6
Service Manuals, Wiring Diagrams & Tech Sheets / Summit FFBF181ES
« Last post by toddwhite on October 22, 2020, 01:56:19 PM »
Hoping to find a service manual. At least a wiring schematic.
7
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool md# wrf757sdem01 dual evaporator
« Last post by drkillabrew on October 21, 2020, 11:17:00 PM »
Hello folks, just wanted to post a follow-up to the more-recent portions of this thread. I ordered the replacement fan/thermistor assembly for the Whirlpool fridge I was having the problem with. I removed the evaporator cover in the RC with the intent of replacing the fan/themistor assembly as noted previously. Funny thing! When I went to remove the thermistor from the coil, I noticed it was extremely loose. Loose, as in exactly the condition described and addressed in the service pointer mentioned by Harold's Appliance...
 
As previously stated the service pointer indicates that the thermistor is apparently loose and the repair procedure would be to remove all Frost or ice buidup with a hair dryer or heat gun and secure sensor in place with a plastic tie strap.
So, guess what? I rotated the thermistor clip to a tighter position on the coil, and, like the service pointer instructed, secured it tightly with a zip tie. I'm 6 weeks post-repair with absolutely no ice buildup, RC is keeping consistent temp and no other issues. So I guess it pays to follow service pointers. I've also got a replacement fan/thermistor in case I ever actually need it in the future...
8
My Maytag (aka Whirlpool) over the range microwave model number MMV5219DS-1 shows the F1E4 error code, but I have tested every relay on the controller board (7 total) without finding any failures.  If I reassemble the controller board back into the microwave it goes back to working again, but over time it will eventually stop working again with the same error code.  The last operational period was about 4 months with no problems and then it happened again.  I have not found any diagnostic or service information that would help me sort out this problem.  Initially I thought the problem was with the controller board, but I am not convinced this is actually true.  I also thought that the small outline transistors used to enable the relay switch coils on the controller board might have a cold solder joint, so I reflowed the solder on all of them prior to the last error code occurrence.   So obviously this didn't help at all.
9
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Help with Hoover fridge freezer
« Last post by Bungalows on October 21, 2020, 03:12:19 PM »
I own a Hoover fridge freezer. I've been having problems with it for months, not freezing (the fridge being fine though). I called Hoover out at a hefty price and they replaced the fan. Seemed to work fine for a couple months, and now it's not freezing again. Is it likely to be the fan? Why would a fan keep going? Or could it be a different problem?

Here's a pic: https://imgur.com/f1RZGRd.
10
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Need help with a LG LinearCompressor
« Last post by re5513 on October 21, 2020, 03:04:47 PM »
I changed the dryer and installed a fresh one with the compressor swap.  I did not flush the system so perhaps that is the issue.  My thought is that the failed schrader got the system to a low freon state and overheated the compressor causing the somewhat temperature sensitive valve in the compressor to fail.
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