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Forum Index => Dryer Repair => Topic started by: Thorning on January 27, 2022, 01:12:43 PM
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The above dryer was sold to a customer who used it for a very short time period before reporting that it was no longer heating. I checked it out and found the thermal fuse had opened. Checking with the customer and looking at the ducting for the exhaust I surmised it was not completely open or has a restriction . The ducting for this dryer in this apartment is quite long probably 20 feet or more with at last one 90 degree elbow. The outlet at the external wall is a flapper type. The landlord sent a person who supposedly cleaned it out but it is questionable. I replaced the thermal fuse and I even went so far as to replace this dryer with another similar unit just to make sure I had not missed something. It ran a few hours and again popped the thermal fuse. I am going to review the installation again but suspect the same problem is still there in the ducting. I dont have a water manometer to check the restriction and wondered if anyone could give me info on some other way to check for restrictions ? Also what is typically the max restriction allowable on an electric dryer ?
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A Thermal fuse doesn’t blow for lack of airflow, the thermal cut-off on the heater duct does that. Thermal fuses blow for 3 reasons, old, element grounded to chassis and a bad hi limit stat not opening till the op stat or thermistor on blower house takes presidencce. To test airflow use a temp probe on meter and angle inside door floating mid drum. When heat goes off after 200 degrees should see a 1-2 degree drop per second minimum for efficiency.
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Thanks for the info regarding possible causes of this problem. Both of the dryers have plenty of air flow when disconnected and blowing free air and they were both operating properly and heating well when tested in my garage before they were installed. There is no thermister on these dryers to my knowledge and replacing the thermal fuse on either unit allowed them both to resume operating properly but only for a short time. I will continue to investigate but it is puzzling so far.
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Hey another thought maybe. Some complexes utilize 3 phase 208vac which will cause your element to stay on longer maybe not tripping high limit in the beginning putting stress on that fuse too. Some manufacturers have a lower wattage element for those situations as well… keep us updated I’m curious
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I just plugged in the newer dryer I took back from this customer after replacing the thermal fuse. I ran it about 20 minutes with no problems in my garage. I shut it off and plugged it back in later and ran it about another 20 minutes with no problems . It provided good heat and proper air flow. Your comment about the electric supply at the customer location will be investigated later today also.
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I never heard back from that customer after I gave him an older Speed Queen unit. The newer unit which I took back ran properly in my garage after I replaced the thermal fuse. ???
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Hmm. Well maybe just call it a win and we’ll never know…
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The customer finally called me back and we agreed to a mutually agreeable solution. I took the old Speed Queen electric dryer model number NE5513WF back and gave him a portion of his money back . The unit would run the drum but not heat. When I got it back to my shop, I checked the thermal fuse and found it blown. A replacement was installed and the unit ran fine with good heat. He will look at buying a completely new unit.
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n a follow up to this problem area I tried to get the customer to answer via the phone what he ended up doing and he either is going to a public laundromat to dry clothes or using someone elses dryer. My curiosity is bugging me . Has anyone else had a similar experience ?
